NOTES ON A TRIP ABROAD.

Taranaki Herald, Volume LIX, Issue 143451, 23 March 1911, Page 7

NOTES ON A TRIP ABROAD.

Continuing his account of his recent travels Mr. W. F. Gordon says; The city of Salisbury (population 20,500) is a quaint old town. The see was formerly settled at Old Sarum, about two miles to the north of its present position. From its exposed situation, want of water, and other reasons, the seo was transferred to the present situation. By degrees tho in'liabitauts of old Sarum deserted it for the now site. The cathedral is 473 ft in length and 229 ft wide at the principal transept. The design is very tine, and tho graceful spire, which is 404 ft high, is a well-known land mark for many miles around. It is two feet out of tho perpendicular towards the south, but has not moved since it was examined by Sir C .Wren. The cloisters are said to bo “one of the finest ornamented enclosures in the Kingdom.” Tho fine pieces of sculpture in the chapter house, that were wantonly destroyed by the Cromwellian Commissioners, have now been completely restored. There are no trams here, consequently if one wishes to see tho suburbs a conveyance must be hired or else use shanks’ pony. Tho market-place is a largo square in the centre of the city, on which there are statues of Lord Herbert, of Lea, and H. Fawcett, once PostmasterGeneral, who was a native of Salisbury. Close to the market square is the old Poultry Cross, a very interesting object. It is mentioned in a deed dated November 2, 1335.' In High Street, the old George, now a private hotel, once a flourishing hostelry, was in existence as the George in 1406. It is a most interesting old place, especially to tho antiquary. Cromwell is said to have stayed there, and S. Pepys mentioned in his diary that he lodged there. The litflo garden (much larger once) is shown, whore tradition has it that Shakespeare and his company onceplayed. In St. John Street is a very old hoiise called the King’s Arms, which was the, secret rendezvous of the Royalists, and where measures wore concocted for effecting tho escape of Charles 11. On the (ivoning prior to our visit the city was visited by a most terrific thunderstorm, which was so severe that many persons were afraid to go to bed. The'belfry of a scheol was struck and demolished, ond tho current in passing to earth ripped up the brickwork. ,We, in company with many others, went to have a look at the scene of tho damage. A man who kindly pointed out tho school, happened to remark that ho had seen very severe thunderstorms in New Zealand, and on comparing nob's I found him to ho a Mr. John Kelly, formerly Colour-Sergeant in the 50th llegt., and who server! at Nukumaru and other engagements in the Maori war. He was pleased to meet one who know something of his famous old regiment, and especially its - doings in New Zealand. I thought I could not do better than present him with a photo of the monument on Marsland Hill. Old Sarum is like a gigantic ancient Maori pa. It is two miles from Salisbury (or new Sarum) on the Amesbury Road, and was the Sorbiodunum of the Romans. On the day of our visit a gang of workmen were busy making excavations, and hud unearthed several old walls, stops, etc., etc. Wilton is reached by train three miles from the city. Wilton House, the seat of the Earl of Pembroke, is built on the site of a Benedictine Abbey, which, on the dissolution, becamo, with the lands, tho property of Win. Herbert, first Earl of Pembroke, as a gift from Henry VIII. The present beautiful mansion was built from designs by Holbein and Inigo Jones. A lady guide showed us through the portion oi tho mansion open to visitors, and rich and rare were the pictures, etc., contained therein. Tho old and now churches at Wilton arc well worth seeing. Tho former is now in ruins. In tho grounds lending up to tho mansion there is a statue of tho Earl of Pembroke, who, ns a young man, visited Now Zealand in his yacht, the Albatross. Stonehenge.—This ancient monument on Salisbury Plain is about a mile and a half from Amesbury village and nine from Salisbury. It is the property of Sir E. Antrobus, and is now enclosed by a wire fence, and a charge of one shilling each made to visitors. A young policeman on the ground acts as guide, and has evidently read the matter up well. On being told that a gentleman in New Soutli Wales, who had visited Stonehenge, said ho thought it was a “composition” oi some sort—meaning that it had been formed of concrete—the guide pointed to one stone there, a kind of pudding stone, and explained that though it looked like concrete of some description, it was not. To mo the stones appeared like so many great pieces of waterworn trachiteV One of tho large upright pieces that had leaned right overmen to a smaller one has been put back into its proper position. tmn. Tho guide said they found it about 20ft. out of and Oft. in tho ground, and very heavy. When got into position the excavation that was made round was filled in with concrete. Several other stones that have commenced to lean are supported by strong wooden props. The outward circle is about 300 ft. in circumference, and was composed of large upright stones bearing others horizontally on their tops, forming a continuous corona or crown work all round the building. There were rings of smaller stones of a different description to tho others. Another ring was composed of five pairs of what are called trilithons—that is, two largo upright atones carrying a third one across their tops, kept in position by mortices in the crosspiece and tenons on tho tops of the .uprights. Many of the largo stones remain as*they fell ages ago. Numerous harrows lie all over the plain in tho neighbourhood of Stonehenge, The history of this famous relic of a vanished age seems to be lost in antiquity. No Roman coin or any other vestigo of the “conquerors of tho world” has been discovered in or about the ruins. The so-called Salisbury Plains are too undulating to bo plains in tho true sense of tho world. There was a good view of the military manoeuvring grounds at Bnlford camp, and tho surrounding country looked beautiful. The return was made by another route through typical English lanes and villages. Winchester, on the Itcben, is said to bo one of the most healthy towns in England; population, 21,000. It was tho British, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, Danish, and Norman capital. Many of tho early Kings were crowned in the Cathedral, and Parliaments were frequently, held down to tho latter part of tho thirteenth century. The Cathedral wis consecrated on July 15, 1093, and fr said to he the largest cathedral in Europe with tho exception of St. Peter’s at Rome, and to rank next to Westminster Abney in tho richness of its monuments. It has been restored more than once, and at tho present time a staff of workmen are busy restoring the foundations at—so I was told—so mnch per man per day. A lot of tho old wood that has been taken out of the foundations during tho restoration has been mado into souvenirs ami sold for the benefit of tho restoration fund. Tho magnificent roredos was commenced by Cardinal Beaufort and is executed in fine white stone. In 1538 it was despoiled of its images, but

has been restored with great fidelity to tho original work. It is. said to be as fine a piece of work as this or any other nation can exhibit. Tho west gat© is one of tho old city gates, and dates from the fourteenth century. Who has not heard of people receiving warm receptions? The besiegers had such meted out to them, in the shape of molten lead, which was poured down upon them through holes above the gate. There also remain the slits through which the archers shot their arrows, and tho grooves in which the portcullis was worked. The great hall of Winchester Castle was completed in 1235, and is 112 ft. long and 55ft. wide. The castle was the residence of tho early Nominal and later Kings. In tho hall the Parliaments of England sat for nearly four hundred years, and some of the most important laws have been passed and notable trials heard in it. The famous Round Table of King Arthur is hung up in the hall, and covers thb site of the King’s ear or lug, which was a hole in the wall with a sounding hoard, through which tho King could hear from tho private apartments all that was taking place in Parliament. “God-begot” house is a very interesting and quaint old place, going back to the days of Canute. It seems to date originally from 1052 and received its name on account of being granted the privilege of sanctuary, which it retained till the Reformation. It was rebuilt in 1558, and after being used for many purposes is now a private hotel, and is a splendid specimen of old black oak beams, pillars, and white walls, etc., and is furnished throughout with antique furniture. The curfew bell is rung opposite God-begot every evening at 8 p.m. It is said that when the city was stricken with the terrible plague that God-bogot escaped its ravages. St. Cross Hospital was founded by Bishop Henry De Blois in 1136 to support entirely thirteen poor men, feeble and so reduced in strength that they can hardly or with difficulty, support themselves without another’s aid. St. Cross has that peculiar attraction which belongs to whatever is first of its ownclass. The wayfarers’ dole of a horn of beer and piece of bread is given on knocking at the porter’s hatchway, and is one of the last remaining instances of that oldon-timo charity which could make provision for all comers.” On an average about thirty wayfarers receive the dole daily. We considered ourselves wayfarers, and walked down to this famous old hospital and partook of the dole. Look, Staffordshire, a town of about 16,090 inhabitants, is famous for its sowing silks, etc., and is generally called tho capital of tho Moorlands. It is free from the smoky characteristics of other manufacturing towns of Staffordshire, and is surrounded by agricultural lands, and “Look Market” is known far and wide. The old Parish Church of St. Edward stands on rising ground not far from tho market square. Great damage was sustained by tho sacred edifice from a serious fire in 1297. It possesses a nice toned peal of bells that chime and play several old melodies. In 1686 French Protestants or Huguenots are mentioned as hcin,g in Leek and “they are said to have introduced ribbon weaving and ferreting, and buttons made in silk twist and mohair can be traced back to their time.” Look is also noted for its embroidery, banners, niter cloths, and many other ornamental materials being deftly worked in Look silks by skilled, needlewomen. A silk mill is very interesting, and I had the pleasure of Kang shown over Messrs. Brough and Nicholson’s in this town. Silk twist was formerly mado hv tho hand. To-day it is done by special machinery, studded with rapidly revolving bobbins, like spinning tops. Tho process of embroidering devices, etc., on silk ribbons, coat hangers, etc., is very interesting. The silk industry, lias greatly changed in Leek in recent years. What used to he done in the private houses of the workers is now done in great factories. Once on a time the dyers stood on great planks over the churnet and washed their fabrics, The aniline dyes have driven out the old vegetable dyes, and employers do not now have to hunt up their workers in pubs, when on the spree, and offer to “pee for gallon if you’ll coom work.” That’s all changed now. Talking of pubs, Leek need to bo noted for its ales. In these days of extreme temperance it has been favourably compared with Ashbourne's. “No ale’s had,” a Leek labourer onCc said, “hut,” with a grimace he added, "at Ashbourne it’s ’orriblc.”