“THE ROUND TRIP”

Taranaki Daily News, 27 July 1935, Page 1 (Supplement)

“THE ROUND TRIP”

FOREST AND BIRD LIFE

(By

H.K.S.)

(No. in.) Tourists who cannot spare the time to make the round trip gain an accurate and highly favourable impression of Fiordland scenery by walking to Deep Cove and back cruising on the sound; but it is the longer trip which, whether made in sunshine or rain, brings a full realisation of the rare loveliness and majesty of this corner of Southland.

The depredations of weasels, stoats and the German owl have greatly lessened the number of New Zealand’s native birds, but round Lake Manapouri and on Mr. Leslie Murrell’s overland route to Bradshaw and Doubtful Sounds many of the lovely feathered creatures which had their habitat in the Dominion before the coming of the white man are still to be seen in comparatively large numbers. Most of them have not yet learnt to regard human beings as enemies and those who enjoy a close study of their habits will find a week or more spent in this supremely beautiful part of New Zealand both instructive and refreshing. The magnificent beech trees near the accommodation house at the lake harbour many birds which fill the air with exquisite melody. There are bell birds in hundreds, and from daylight to dark their liquid notes are borne to the ear. Tais are less plentiful but they, too, add to the harmony. Then there is the dainty grey warbler whose clear and delightful trills are to be heard wherever one walks. A whirring of wings proclaims the flight of a pigeon, numbers of which are to be observed within a few chains of the house. Sometimes in the manuka scrub a longtailed cuckoo may be encountered, his presence being revealed by the shrill and angry cries of small birds to whom he is anathema. He has no cause to fear damage to his person from them but they annoy him greatly with their persistent attention. The cuckoo is also often heard at night when listeners may imagine it is the banshee, for Nature was unkind to him in the matter of a voice, his cry being extremely harsh and unmelodious. The shining cuckoo may also be heard, his whistle being readily distinguishable. The small birds are friendlier than their larger fellows. Tom-tits abound and the keenest interest is always taken by these perky little creatures in the doings of men. Clinging at an angle to the trunk of a tree, with head cocked sideways, they follow with their bright little eyes every movement of anyone strolling through the forest. Fan-tails are also inquisitively friendly and will follow a person for a long way. Most unafraid of all is the robin, a larger bird than his English cousin and a very self-assured and sociable gentleman. He makes it very clear that he likes your company and is eager to share a meal with you. The little rifleman wren, tiniest of all New Zealand birds, is frequently to be seen examining the bark of trees for

insects. One could imagine that Nature had fashioned him in such a hurry that she forgot to supply him with tail feathers, for at this end he stops very suddenly. Above the bush-line the rock wren (of beautiful green hue) is very tame and inquisitive. On the lake stately black swan of Australian origin and a family of black teal duck are constantly to be seen, while the unpopular shag is ready to take up a vantage point on some rock near the edge of the lake or in the Waiau River. A solitary crested grebe breaks. the placid waters as he dives like a flash after a mountain trout. These fish (which are not really trout) are found at a height of 3500 feet. There is at least one kingfisher family living near the lake. Usually it is for fish which these gay-coloured, swift flying birds hunt but to give variety to the menu they occasionally dart from the bough of a tree and seize a dragon fly which has been winging its gauzy way in utter ignorance of the danger lurking above it. On the track the bird which draws most attention to itself is the weka. Many of these are to be encountered as one walks through the bush but it is at the huts that they come under closest observation. A few minutes after a party of tourists arrives there is certain to be at least one weka poking his nose inside the door and his beak into any object which takes his fancy. Outside may be heard numerous calls of these birds. It is a discordant, harsh cry which is preceded by a dull booming in the throat. Usually ten or a dozen calls suffice but sometimes a bird will make the night .hideous .with three or four hundred shrieks. A bom thief, the weka will remove from the hut any bright object such as a watch or a spoon. Even a boot left to dry by the fire is not immune from his attentions. A tin thrown outside a hut will cause him to expend much energy striving to thrust his powerful beak through it. One would imagine that wekas would not be troubled by sand flies but they may be observed angrily shaking their heads as a cloud of the insects surrounds them. Heard at night and on rare occasions seen on a very dull day, kiwis still [flourish in Fiordland. The marks made by their long bills may be observed on the banks of creeks beside the track and a guide, well-versed in their habits, may point out a burrow where they lie through the day. Kakas are not often seen but, may be heard calling among the trees and on the track one may see evidence of the havoc wrought by their strong beaks on an old tree which has contained the big white grub they relish. Keas are numerous in the high country but do not believe in approaching as close as on some other routes.

Parrakeets are occasionally met with and if one is fortunate one may see a flock of native canaries or yellowheads which from all accounts are again increasing in this part of the Dominion. They move about in flocks. Amidst the swirling waters of such rivers as the Freeman and the Camelot those large and attractive birds, the blue mountain duck, are not infrequently seen. At sight of man they utter a whistling hiss or a fluting call according to their sex but they do not appear at all alarmed and will often approach to make closer- investigation of the invader. It is amazing to see them swimming upstream against the fierce current. They rarely fly and are adepts at making use of back-washes and boulders in their progress upstream. Their bills are busy beneath the water seeking sandfly larvae, performing valuable work for tourists. Sea birds, such as petrels, nest in these high mountains. The Kakapo is still in existence, its loud drumming being occasionally heard. Though the beech bush does not provide food in abundance it may safely be said that the birds are now holding their own. The End.