IN THE GARDEN

Taranaki Daily News, 23 March 1932, Page 15

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Never miss an opportunity of getting rid of weeds when small. 'Dahlias are simply romping away and need close attention to training, tying, etc. Spray with arsenate of lead to kill caterpillars on dahlias, zinnias, etc. If moist weather causes rust on the chrysanthemums to develop, lust with sulphur or spray with" Bordeaux. Proceed with the planting of narcissi, hyacinths, tulips, etc. Clear away any spent annuals, etc. Now is a good time to lift and replant liliums that have done flowering. Plant anemones and ranunculus; - See that stakes and ties are secure on tall herbaceous plants. THE VEGETABLE garden,Every advantage must be taken, to prepare ground for winter cropping. Keep the pods closely picked on dwarf and runner beans. . Any vacant ground not required should be sown down in oats or other cover crop. . Stirring the soil around growing crops keeps the plants moving. Spinach can be sown in succession. Lift the tops of kumaras to prevent them rooting. Continue to disbud, tie and spray tomatoes. Harvest potatoes and onions. Harvest haricot beans when pods are dry, but before they commence to open. Make plantings of cabbage and cauliflowers. Sowings of carrots, beet, cabbage, cauliflowers, lettuce, radish, can be made. RANUNCULUS. Ranunculus is a large genus, but the npe is usually applied to the varieties of R. Asiaticus, or garden ranunculus, as they are known. They are very old .florist flowers, and* at one time there ■were a large number of named varieties in cultivation. There are three principal sections, Persian, Turban and French. /Phe Persian is of compact and symmetrical growth, with flowers as regularly ;impricated as a show dahlia, the petals in many cases being edged, spotted or variegated with different colourings. The Turban are of hardier constitution and freer growth and without broken colours. The French have more free growth and with larger and less compact flowers, and is the section which is most generally grown to-day. The newer Florentine strain is a selection from the French section, with very large blooms. They require rather more cultivation than the anemone, but will give good results uhder ordinary treatment. Good drainage is essential, also an open position. A rich soil is beneficial,, but fresh rank manure must be avoided. Planting can be done from March till July or August. The best way to plant is to take out drills about Sin. deep and about oin. apart. The claws, of the roots should be pressed downwards and firmly into’ the soil. After the planting, rake over the .surface. A light, topdressing of artificial manure will be beneficial if applied about two months after planting. WISTARIA. The best wistaria for general purposes is W. chinensis, which can be used for walls, pergolas, and fences. It. is a long-lived plant and keeps on growing and lengthening so that a great length of fence can ultimately be covered by it. There is a white variety and ■ a double one for those who care to possess it, but neither is so showy as the ordinary form. W. multijuga conies next in importance because the racemes attain such great length on vigorous plants. It also has a white and rose coloured form. Where there is a large space to cover, the soil should be dug out three feet square and deep, to give the plants a good start, but for a smaller plant to commence flowering early the soil need not be dug so deeply Besides climbers there are bushes and standards available. Standards looic well in tubs flowering quite early a- the result of restricted root room. After the available space has been covered by climbers they may be pruned several times during summer, cutting back all twining or running shoots. Standards, may be pruned in the same way, and that will encourage the formation of flower buds. Planting may be done in May. THE ANEMONE.

Few hardy flowering plants are more diverse and 'brilliant in colours than the varieties of this. Anemone coronaria has been a favourite ornament of gardens for more than 300 years, and is still a favourite with all who know it. The varieties are extremely numerous; if raised from seed, no two plants are quite alike in the colour of their flowers, and all are bright and attractive. Its natural flowering period is in September and October,, but it can be had in bloom in lengthened succession by planting at different times. The roots are tuberous and can be kept out of the earth in a dry, cool place without injury. A first ■batch may be planted in February. Other plantings may be made during the three or four following months, which will furnish flowers for many months. The flowers are admirably, adapted for cut flower purposes. The tubers are extremely cheap, and are obtainable in early autumn from seed and oul'b dealers, in double and single flowered, in mixed colours and in selected varieties in different colours.

The soil for this charming anemone should be rich, but not with rank or crude manure; it should be broken up deeply and manured freely with wellrotted manure. Good drainage is essential, and an open, sheltered situation desirable; the later plantings should be made in a west aspect possible, in order to prolong the beauty of the flowers, which is apt to be deteriorated by exposure to summer sun. The tubers should be planted about o-6in. asunder and 3in. deep. When the foliage appears- above the surface the ground should be frequently stirred lightly with a small hoe to keep it open, and also to destroy weeds. Give water freely should dry weather set in. One good watering a week, given in the evening, is more effective than daily driblets; indeed, the latter are generally apt to be hurtful. But watering is not likely to be needed by the earliest plantings. The later ones, however, should be well attended to if drought occurs. CALCEOLARIAS. Propagate yellow, and brown bedding calceolarias, Ty cuttings inserted in boxes, or directly into a cold frame. The latter is-the better way if there are sufficient to fill a light or a frame.

Simply pull off side shoots three or four inches long. Most of them will have a heel and very little trimming will be required. LAYERING SHRUBS. ■Many shrubs, such as laurels, rhododendrons, heaths, veronicas, etc., can be increased 'by layering during summer. Choose a nice suitable branch or growth, for preference one that can be brought down easily to the ground, make au upward cut with a sharp knife on the branch, at the point of contact witn the soil, not sufficient to cause severance, but to form a nice tongue. At the point of layering take out a hole a foot square and nine to 12 inches deep, replacing the soil removed with a prepared compost of sandy loam and leaf-soil, or if for rhododendrons or : heaths, peat, sand and leaf-soil. Place the layer in position, and secure it by means of a suitable peg; if the branch is tongued see that the part is kept well open, or failure to root will result. PAEONIES. Paeonics that have become overgrown may be broken up and planted again immediately. They will form roots and be established before winter. When this operation is delayed till June the soil gets too cold for rooting. Spring planting is worse, for the plants have no time to form fresh roots before the. heat is upon them. DIVIDING POLYANTHUSES. Although these are easily raised from seed it is a good plan to lift and divide the old plants as soon as they , have finished flowering. This method is especially useful where good varieties have to be dealt with; colours can be kept true, whereas with seed there is always a risk of not getting exactly, what is expected. Old clumps can be. divided into as many as four or six pieces, so that it is easy to increase a good variety if one wants to. For dividing a sharp knife is required, and in dividing cut perpendicularly from top to bottom, taking care to secure as many roots as possible to each piece. When dividing, plant in a fairly rich piece of ground where the plants can 'be kept moist until they have made new roots. It will be found an advantage to keep them moist and cool should the weather be very hot and dry. The pieces can be nut into a prepared bed, which will mate it easier to tend them, and they can be then planted out into their flowering quarters in the autumn. The primrose can also be dealt with in a similai fashion. This is- a good time to sow seed of polyanthus and primrose; sown now the plants will flower next spring. Choose a shady, moist spot foy sowing the seed, and. if possible, sow in ground that has a good admixture of wellrotted manure or leaf soil added. Primrose and polyanthus like a soil rich in humus or decaying vegetable matter. GREEN MANURE. This is obtained by sowing a quickgrowing crop, such as mustard, and subsequently digging it in. Any. green vegetable refuse may be buried, in the same way when ground is being dug during winter. Decayed vegetable matter and garden refuse should never be wasted, but care should be taken that it contains nothing that will grow and prove a nuisance, such as roots of perennial weeds, horseradish, etc. Seaweed is used regdlarly where it can be obtained, and with good results, but difficulties of transport prevent its being much used inland. Tree-leaves should, if possible, be kept separate from other garden rubbish. After being stored for a year they are excellent for digging into soil which is inclined to be heavy. All these manures supply humus to the soil, and as they have to decompose before the plant foods become available it follows that quicker results are obtained when the material used is in an advanced state of decay. PESTS ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Insect pests and disease at times cause much havoc in the chrysanthemum beds. Among its foes are earwigs, fly and caterpillars. The former can be destroyed by any of the different manners of trapping, such as an upturned flower pot filled with hay, at the top of the stake. Green and black fly can be exterminated by fumigation or by dusting with tobacco powder. Syringing with a solution of quassia will keep them at bay. Tobacco powder, should be washed off shortly after use. Hellebore powder, or spraying with one ounce arsenate of lead in two gallons of watei, will settle caterpillars. As is the case with human beings, one of the primary causes of disease is poor health; and where this is the reason, we often haze the remedy in providing additional nutriment. VERBENA. The verbena is one of the best bedding plants. It is not tall growing, but if pegged down (hairpins are good for the purpose) they will soon cover quite a large bed, and will continue in flower for months., especially if. the old flower heads are picked off. It is a sunloving subject, but if allowed to get too dry it is liable to attacks of red spider. Where there are beds of verbena they should have a good soaking of water, which should be followed by an application of liquid manure. If Red ■Spider or rust make their appearance spray with lime-sulphur one part, water 50 parts. It is not generally known that the verbena comes well from cuttings, and if taken off now and rooted will make good plants to put out before winter, and will give a good display early next spring. The cuttings should be made 3in. or 4in. long, of strong, healthy, clean growths. Insert them in boxes of firm, sandy soil, keep ’’'iin watered and shaded till rooted, when they can be planted out. A good position to root them is on a shelf on a verandah, in a frame, or greenhouse. So long as they get light, air, moisture, and little sun they will root. VIOLETS. Violets should have all the runners and off-sets cleared away to encourage a vigorous growth of the main crowns. Hoe the ground amongst them frequently. Frequent waterings will be very beneficial, and an occasional dose of liquid manure will do a lot of good. Instead of liquid manure a sprinkling of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, followed by a good soaking of water, will do instead. Liquid manure made with fowl droppings is also very good. Should red spider appear spray with lime-sulphur or black leaf 40. PATHS. I Good paths are an essential need in every garden, and they should always be kept clean and free from weeds. Often through neglect good paths become dirty, and moss-covered, and the

result is an untidy, uneven path which gives the garden a forlorn, untidy appearance. Although usually put off until the winter, when there is less to do, the summer is the best time to remake or repair bad paths. With concrete paths this may not apply, but the majority are not concrete, but usually earth with a coating of gravel, scoria or shell. Next to concrete a tarred path is as good as any, and now is the time to repair and to put on fresh tar. A path tarred every few years will keep dry and clean in all weather*.