IN THE GARDEN

Taranaki Daily News, 12 January 1932, Page 12

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. •Pick off all spent 'blooms. Keep tall herbaceous plants securely tied. , Chrysanthemums should be staked and tied. i iSpray chrysanthemums with lime sulphur or Bordeaux mixture to prevent rust. , . Disbud chrysanthemums, restricting the -growths to two or three, according to variety. The crown bud, which is now showing on chrysanthemums, should be pinched out. Dahlias are growing fast and need attention to staking and tying. A certain amount of cutting out of inside weak shoots is advisable to prevent plants getting tdo bulky. Watering may be necessary in some cases, but too much, so as to cause a soft growth, should be avoided, in growing dahlias and chrysanthemums. Frequent hoeing, so as to keep the- surface soil in a dust-like state, is essen tial. . . / Remove seed pods, unless required for seed purposes, from all plants. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. .Remove lateral growths of tomatoes, keeping the plant to one stem. _ Spray tomatoes with 'Bordeaux and add a little arsenate of lead for caterpillars. 'Pinch the leading shoots of pumpkins, marrows, cucumbers, etc. Make further sowing of dwarf beans. Gather the pods as soon as they are of a useful size. Sowings of/haricot beans can be made. Sow sweet corn for culinary use. Celery can be planted. Shade the plants if weather is hot at planting time. Onions that have taken mildew and the tops of which are down should be pulled up. Clean up vacant plots to prevent weeds seeding. Burn any diseased rubbish, such as potato haulm. SUCCESSFUL TRANSPLANTING. Careful and. correct transplanting is a gardening operation which leads to a successful bed. of greens yearly. . The secret of successful transplanting is tu start work as soon as the plants are large enough to handle; when the possess four leaves. Amateurs often transplant Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and other greens which are over a foot high before they remove them from the drills in which they were sown and grow-n. (Plants must be transplanted when they are at the four-leaf stage, into what gardeners call the “nursery bed,” where they can be left growing sin. apart, until they are again transplanted into their permanent quarters, being well provided with a mass of small roots. When transplanting with a dibber care must be taken to see the plants are firmly transplanted. Stick the heel of your gardening .boots well into the soil round the newly-planted seedlings, fill the hole thus made with water, cover the water with dry earth, and your plants yrill be firmly embedded, well watered, and will thrive. You will find that watering is necessary, except in the time of a wet summer spell,' for all transplanted greens such as cabbages, broccoli, cauliflowers and sprouts, with transplanted leeks, ■ celery, marrows, ridge cucumbers, endive and lettuce. If transplanting is taking place during a dry spell, take out a trench with your hoe, water it well, allow the water to drain into the soil well, and then transplant your seedlings into the trench and draw dry earth around them., Another plan is to transplant your seedlings firmly, then with your dibber make a deep hole about an inch or two from each seedling, and fill the dibber holes with water, which will certainly reach the thirsty roots of your plants. HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING. Do not forget to water your seed bed well some hours before you intend removing the seedlings for transplanting, and loosen the earth gently around the seedlings with your fork or trowel before commencing to pull them out of the soil. Young tender plants of lettuce are often torn in handfuls from the rows, their roots being broken off and left in the soil. Such plants are thus badly checked when transplanted, and in dry weather they die. When transplanting from nursery beds, always use a trowel and take up a nice ball of earth with the roots, so that their growth in their new quarters will be checked as little as possible. If, during transplanting, you are called. away from your work for some time, do not throw the plants in a heap on the ground, leaving them in the heat of the sun until you return, but gather them in a bunch and bury their roots under the earth in a shady place, or beneath a ■bush, till you need them again. They will keep there for a day or more if the ground is kept moist around their roots. The best time for transplanting is just before or after rain, and while the weather is showery. If it is necessary to plant' on a hot day, choose the evening for preference, and water the plants thoroughly.. After transplanting such plants as marrows, cucumbers or tomatoes, put some leafy boughs around them to keep off the heat of the sun-dor a day or two, or shade 'them with a couple of slates or wicker screens. Never attempt to plant out seedlings into ground which has not previously been properly prepared for them. The finer the tilth and the more recently your ground has been turned, the better .will your transplanted plants take root and thrive in your plot. ’ CELERY. In a week or so the early crops of celery will be put out, and the time Fas now come to get the trenches prepared. Too early planting often causes the plants to “bolt” in the same way as early sowing of the seed does; therefore, nothing is gained by planting out previous to t'he middle of this month. There is only one excuse for making the trenches for celery deep, and that is when the whole of the garden soil is trenched deep periodically. In this case there is a good depth of fertile soil, and the celery .plants will do well in it. Only too often, however, the garden soil is not trenched deeply, and When the celery plants are planted deep down jn a narrow trench it is not long before they come in contact with the infertile sub-soil, and the growth at once receives a severe check. For this reason do not make deep trenches, and see to it that the plants have something' more under them than fertile surface soil. A trench six inches deep when finished is much better than one a foot deep. The rows of celery should run north and south, and not east and west. Rowe in the former position get the maximum amount of sun on either side. Make the irenches perfectly "straight by means of the garden line, and throw out the top spit of soil regularly on either aids.

Then dig, or fork into the bottom of the trench a like amount of well-decay-ed manure. This suits the plants better than any other kind, but do not use it fresh from the stable. Next spread a layer of the best of the excavated soil on the top, and in this the plants can ■be planted. By this method it is certain that the roots of the plants will meet with plant food all the time as they penetrate down into the soil. It is quite true that celery will thrive when planted in nothing else but manure, but this must be suitable, and even then it often tends to encourage those pests which play havoc with the “sticks.” Where space is limited have a double or treble line of plants in one trench, but it is better to grow the plants in single lines whenever possible. Each plant then has a better chance to develop properly if not planted too close in the rows. A distance of from eight to 12in. should at least be allowed, and much more if the sticks are intended for the exhibition table. The trenches should get a good soaking a day or so prior to planting. CUTTINGS TO TAKE NOW. ,• In January soft-wooded plants like abutillons, lantanas, pelargoniums, 'heliotropes, fuchsias,- etc., have many soft young shoots which, if taken off, will readily root and make fine plants next year for greenhouse or garden decoration. All the plants mentioned, with the exception of pelargoniums, should be inserted in pots of sandy soil and pressed down fairly firm before they “flag.” As each pot is finished give it water. Afterwards the best place for them is a close propagating case in a snug part of the greenhouse. Failing this, a home-made propagating case can easily be .formed with a fairly shallow box and'one or two panes of glass laid over the top. At this time of the year no artificial heat is required. The contents of the case must be examined every day and the glass turned or the moisture wiped off. If any signs of decay appear remove them, or the other cuttings will decay. This daily examination is important; not only can decayed Igaves be removed, but the state of the soil with regard to moisture can be ascertained. The soil must be kept modera'tely moist. As soon as it is seen that the cuttings are rooted, a little air must be given to the base, and in three or four days the cut-: tings may be inured to the atmosphere of the house. The pelargoniums, which include zonal, ivy and fancy pelargoniums, need different treatment. The cuttings should oe severed just below a joint; this is not necessary with the plants mentioned. It is not harmful to them to be allowed to “flag” as it is with the other cuttings. The best place for them, after being inserted. in pots, is a cold frame with plenty of air and no shading. • TUBEROUS-ROOTED BEGONIA. •Some'of the tuberous-rooted begonias will have been in flower a considerable time. If they show signs of. distress it will be because the pots are full of fibrous roots and the soil is. consequently exhausted. When in this state they will be greatly/benefited by a dose of some stimulant about twice a week. A mixture of liquid manure and soot water is good, while one of t'he many plant foods now on the market may be used. Care should be taken that the stimulant is not too strong, while in the case of liquid manure it must be quite clear. An important point t*o ( be observed is that stimulants must not be given to plants when the roots are dry, but the plants should .be watered beforehand and allowed time to drain. EARTHING CELERY. Before beginning to earth up celery, remove all short or withered leaves, also suckers, so as to have only good leaves for earthing up. Tie raffia or string round the leaves to hold them together. Then put a brown-paper collar round them to keep out soil while the operation is being carried out. The paper may be pulled upwards a little each time fresh soil is added. ONIONS. Onions do not appreciate the company of weeds. Therefore give the latter no quarter. By wielding the cultivator energetically and frequently, not only are the obnoxious intruders routed, but the surface is kept loose and open, a state absolutely essential to achieve success. Transplanted onions have a tendency to go to seed; consequently the flower heads should be pinched off as soon as they appear. After the plants get well established, some of them will exhibit “thick necks.” 'Pull, them up and use them as required, because the prospects of them attaining perfection are slender. The withering of the leaves and the shrivelling of the hecks indicate when the crop is fit to gather. Pull the bulbs and spread thinly in a shed for two or three weeks, at the end of which they will be sufficiently dry for storing. Then tie by the tops in ropes and attach to beams (but not close to iron roofs) or cut the tops off and place the bulbs in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. When this course is adopted, it is necessary to pick over the onions occasionally and remove those growing or rotting. CACTI FROM CUTTINGS. The propagation of cacti is effected from seed, grafting, offsets and cuttings. The two last methods are the quickest and least troublesome. Take cuttings now of phyllocactus and others, which may be either the young growths that push from the older stems, or a portion of the stems themselves. Either is taken about 2in. or 3in. in length, then laid out in a position fully exposed to the sun until the cut surface has become quite dry; then they are ready for insertion. -Several may be placed in a 48-size pot, but the better way is singly in small thumbs. Use a nice sandy compost with a little old lime added; place a small label for support to each, and keep them just moist till rooted. A greenhouse or cold frame is suitable for propagation. PROPAGATING VERONICAS. All varieties are admirable for the garden 'and the greenhouse or conservatory in pots. They are quite hardy and succeed in most districts. In the garden they succeed and flower in shade, but they do best in an open position, and in sandy soil with just a little loam or leaf-soil added. They may 'be increased now by cuttings of the young growths taken off several inches in length and prepared by the removal of the lowest leaves. If desired, a portion of old wood attached may be secured, but this is not essential. 'Place several cuttings in a 48-size potful of sandy soil and place in a cold frame to root. When they have rooted well, pot them up singly and grow on hardily. In the spring any hot required for pot work could be planted out in the borders. 'Pot on others as required, and if necessary remove the points of g-rovfchs to create nice stocky plants.