FASHION NOTES

Taranaki Daily News, 19 September 1931, Page 23 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES

COMPLICATED DRESSMAKING. £HE SUPER-PROFESSIONAL TOUCH. I(®y Colline Rouff.—Special to Xews.), The more I see of dresses, the more S am convinced that dressmaking is not easy. Models are becoming more•- and more complicated, from the most “simple” little morning frock to the most ■elaborate evening gown. All reveal the super-professional touch, whether they he trimly tailored fine wool and cotton Jrocks or those of silk crepe,- marocain, chiffon, and satin. Even lace does not escape the fitted • insets, and it needs tome patience to arrange 1 , fine lace in hands and curved panels. All this, of course, is good for the dressmakers. A •woman looks right through a-. pattern hook, and at last, in despair,; decides •there is nothing she dare attempt, so she hurries off to -buy or order what she wants. The: most delightful tailored frock of 'the moment is One which has back andfront skirt panels of wide' pleats falling . from, curved • openings like . archwajs. ’ These openings are merely curved pieces cut from a plain skirt or from a slightly circular one, but when the pleats are put in the effect is excellent. The bodice also is cut out in deep oval, to show an inset vest'of the same or contrasting, material, When striped or patterned fabrics' are used, the vests are made with the stripes going a different way. THAT’S NOT SIMPLE. ■Many skirts have wide circular flares let in at the hiplines, and great care has to be exercised to keep these flares from dipping and spoiling- the lines of the hems. Uneven hems are not at all r chic at the moment. The bodices are draped, but the front are inset with different materials. Some of the new "blouses have sleeves cut all in one, wide .at the arm-holes and tapering down to long tight mitten cuffs which begin at ’he elbows. Such sleeves have to be cut by a master hand, or the result is great discomfort and an untidy appearance. A pretty effect is. obtained when the sleeves and the top of the bodice are an one colour, and the rest of the blouse and the mitten cuffs in another. Say you choose navy crepe-de-chine and deep rose georgette —the skirt, and lower part of the /bodice will be navy crepe, and the re- , mainder rose georgette. The coat, too, will be navy crepe unless you prefer one of navy light-weight woollen material. YOKED SKIRTS. All skirts seem to have hip yokes. This is because they are so ••slimming,” and, with all the fullness we want in skirts to-day, it is really the only way to keep the hip-line slender. Few women look well with the fullness straight from the waist, unless it be with a - dress of finest chiffon or net, tightly gauged down to the hips. One pretty yoke binds quite tightly round the figure, and seems to fasten in front with buttons and button-holes, the buttonholes worked on a scalloped over-lap. Of course it does not button really, because this would spoil the line; the fastenings are invisible at the side. SLEEVES IN VARIETY. Little cape sleeves are very fashionable. Some of them are cut plainly as epaulettes; others are "all one. with a circular bodice yoke; still others are Very frilly and just cover the tops of the arms. The double-frilled cape sleeve is charming. For a crepe-de-chine or silk frock there is a new sleeve rather like a full ibishop one. It fits into a tight, cuff at the wrist, but the bell is open to the elbow and edged up the openings with narrow kilting or fine lace. This is a very graceful sleeve. Numbers of new frocks are being made with sleeves reaching only midway between wrists and elbow. Some open upwards to the elbows and have buttons and button-holes which are not intended to be done up. I do not think this is a pretty fashion. If you really want to wear three-quarter sleeves, do disguise them with under mittens of (fine lace, flowered chiffon or georgette. The mittens may bo quite tight, or you may introduce little slashed puffs. Walking frocks have long tight sleeves, with narrow killings running up the seams from the wrists half-way to the- elbows. White pleated lace looks very smart here. Coat sleeves are either long and closely fitting, or they reach only to the • elbow. The -latter are finished with wide cuffs, and are intended to be worn •with long-sleeved frocks or long gloves.

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