SAFETY ON THE MOUNTAIN

Taranaki Daily News, 15 August 1930, Page 11

SAFETY ON THE MOUNTAIN

VALUE OF HUTS EMPHASISED

SIGNPOSTING AND RESCUE WORK.

COMBINED TARANAKI ACTION.

Forty men, representative of the three alpine clubs, the Egmont National Park Board, the North, booth, East and West Committees of that board and the medical profession, drawn from all parts of Taranaki, met at Stratford last night to discuss ways and means, first for the prevention of accidents on the slopes of Mount Egmont and, in the event of such accidents, the best methods to conduct search and relief parties and transport 'injured persons. Suggestions relative to safeguarding the paths and by-ways of the mountain were also welcomed by the chairman, Mr. W, D. Armit, It was unanimously decided that hut construction was most necessary and that such movements would receive th© support they warranted. Mr. Armit said he : was pleased to see such a large attendance, which showed a keen interest on the part of elub members and others in the safeguarding of life on Mount Egmont. There had been a regrettable number of accidents on the mountain and it was meet that some effort should bo made to make climbing more safe. Mr. J. P. Murphy, Dawson Falls mountain house, said ttiat the safe appearance of Egmont tended tb beguile climbers, especially the younger aiid. less experienced ones, into failing to take the care they should take. He stressed the necessity for all houses being notified in the case of accidents .so that there would be no delay and to enable the most efficient, co-operation among search parties, :: Search parties should go'but under a leader in whom trust could be placed. ... ■ In the past hostel caretakers : and alpine club members had been accused of failing to warn sufficiently those people making the ascent for the first time. He had drawn out a list of “Dont’s” which, if taken to heart, would be of great assistance to climbers. ORGANISATION OF SEARCHES. With regard to search parties Mr. Murphy said his plan had generally proved most satisfactory. He first sent a scouting party of picked men away under a. trusted leader, A second search party, generally picked by the leader, would not go above a certain point and had to have all instructions given them by the leader either before he set out or by someone sent back from the first party which he would be leading. A constable and doctor were necessary and tlicse officials were always .willing to risk life and limb to help at any time. Someone had suggested to him that all the hostels should bo connected by telephone and ho felt sure that if the committees approached their postmasters they could have everything possible arranged. He had found it advisable to keep someone on duty at the telephone when search or rescue partie'’ were out. Mr. L. O. Hooker (Hawera), president of the Mount Egmont Alpine Club, assured the chairman of the whole-hearted support of his elub. “Before starting an alpine club,” said Mr. Hooker, “there is a responsibility upon those desiring to do so to sco that they are able to. obtain the services of competent persons to fill the offices of guide and captain. Another important, factor is to see that the club has a satisfactory revenue to be able to supply the necessary demands for essential equipment, and the mountain with huts and a supply of accident and first-aid necessities. If these two conditions cannot be readily complied with it is much wiser to make haste slowly.

ALPINE CLUB'S METHODS. “One of the main objects of alpine clubs is to popularise climbing and other mountain activities, but from the commencement of the life of the Mount Egmont Alpine Club we have had a full realisation of our responsibilities in making the club activities as safe as possible for members. Our constant endeavour has been to achieve this end without unduly restricting the movements of members. We have at all times insisted bn members being properly equipped with abundant clothes, rucsac, waterproof and well nailed boots, axes or alpine stocks, ropes, etc. This fact of proper equipment is mentioned in our club bulletins which are issued to members every few weeks. “We have endeavoured to improve their knowledge of mountain craft by lectures and demonstrations. We have co-operated with the park board and south committee, on which our captain is an honorary representative, in the matter of improving tracks and sign posting. With the object of making the upper reaches of the mountain safer we assisted with the erection of the hut on Fantham’s Peak. This hut is equipped for ten persons with a kerosene stove, emergency rations, bedding and first-aid equipment—surely a boon in cases of accident in the vicinity. All club walks or climbs are under the leadership of competent persons.”

DEALING WITH ACCIDENTS. Mr. R. Syme, captain of the Mount Egmont Alpine Club read some suggestions which he and officers of his club had drawn up for presentation to the meeting. They were not by any means final or complete,- lie said, but would be sufficient to draw helpful criticism from those present. The report was divided into two, one dealing with accidents and the other with suggestions for making the mountain safer. The suggestions, which were drawn up by a meeting of the following Officers or the Mount Egmont Alpine Club —.Messrs, L. O. Hooker (president), J. P. Murphy (chief guide), K. tiyme (club captain), H. N. Murray and B. Hay bittie (vicecaptains)—were as follow:—. (a). Telephonic communications between hostels. (1) That at each hostel there be posted directions for getting into telephonic communication with the other hostels. Stratford and North Egmont are connected to continuous exchanges so provide no difficulty, but Dawson Falls can be reached after the hours of the Kaponga exchange as the telephone is then - connected with the house of the postmaster or. the assistant. Outward communication from Dawson Falls after hours "bf the Kaponga exchange can be established by ringing Mr. J. Guy, Kaponga (No. HD), who will get exchange opened. (2) That at each hostel there be kept a list of the experienced, climbers who can, be,£fea.|ljyi out. Also i names of' docfjorsl and, constables. ’ (3) That in the 1 event 1 if* an accident each, hostel be

by in case assistance is required from that quarter by the leader of the rescue paj'ty.' (b). Accident equipment.— (1) ■ That at each hostel there; be kept Special equipment as follows, for use only in cases of emergency: First-aid cabinet, stretcher (special pattern), hot water bottles (3), ice axes, rope, Crampons, wizard lanterns (2) and accessories, alpine cooker, waterproof sheet, oiled aeroplane cloth, scribbling pad, Condy’s Crystals.. (2). That the secretary of each committee be responsible for seeing that this equipment is at all times complete and in good order, and that ho be required to make periodical inspections of same. (3) That each doctor he notified of the’ contents of the firstaid outfit at each hostel.

(c). Method of procedure for rescue parties.—(l) That the leader organise an advance party of alpine men to conduct a search or, in the case of an accident, to find the nature of the assistance required. (2) That a doctor, constable and other climbers wait at the hostel for instructions from the leader of the advance party. ’ (d) Signals.—(l) That, a definite signal, be arranged for' recalling searchers. Suggest' fire or light. (2.) That the advance party leave signs indicating direction taken. . Suggest Condy’s crystals for use on: show and split stick with paper and- instructions if in bush or scrub. '

Expenses incurred in rescue.work. — (1) That arrangements be made for reimbursing thpse who are out of pocket as a result of. accident or search. Suggest special fund be established /or this purpose. ’ ’

IMPROVING THE TRACKS. It was generally felt that it ?would be a better policy to devote time and money to improvements to the tracks bn the upper slopes and to the erection of huts than to the construction of bush-. tracks from the radius line to the circling track from Dawsons. Falls to North Egmont..'..Alternative track suggestions were considered, but the meeting seemed to favour improvement of the'present track. It wag decided to distribute a leaflet for the guidance of climbers, the captains of the three alpine clubs being appointed to draw up a list of suggestions and submit them to the Park Board. . It would include a short lecture by Mr. Murphy and a list of “donts” for the climbers, together with hints on the mountain in general and apparel and. equipment in particular. Mr. Armit said ; t might be worth while to establish stretcher depots at strategic spots. •Mr. Hooker said the matter of huts .was a very important one and 'he thought it was- time the Government subsidised the building of refuges. A hut had recently been .built in the Tararua range at a cost of £5OO, of which amount £2OO was a grant from .the. Government. Too much attraction had been paid on Egmont to the improvement of tracks in the bush instead of concentrating upon improving tracks at higher altitudes where the greater risk existed.

NO CHANCE OF EXTRA REVENUE. Owing to the general financial stringency the Government was economising in all directions and there was little chance of its granting extra sums for reserves purposes, said the chairman. If by any chance the Park Board was to have money available the matter of • huts would receive primary consideration. Mr. L. E. Lyons (Stratford) - mentioned a special Swedish type of hut of small dimensions and low initial cost that provided excellent shelter in the most rigorous weather.

The matter of raising funds for a hut should not be difficult, said Mr. Hooker. If it were decided to raise £4OO before Christmas he had no doubt it could be done.

Each club should draw up a list of experienced men who could he relied upon to take part in rescue work, said the chairman. Copies; of the lists could be interchanged and the news of an accident ou one portion of the mountain could be expeditiously distributed to able climbers adjacent to the other houses.

QUESTION OF FIRST AID. The question of first aid on the mountain was discussed by Dr. W. P. P. Gordon (Stratford). Men liable to be called upon for rescue parties should be given a definite course of first aid instruction, he said; and representatives with medical knowledge from the three clubs should meet and .discuss the best methods to be employed. For instance it was generally supposed that tho best way to treat frost-bite was to rub the affected part with dry snow. Yet the surgeon on the Shackleton expedition had expressed a different opinion. Questions like that should be settled one way or another. Better stretchers should be procured. The conditions on the mountain were not comparable with those on the flat, and needed special consideration. An essential in the equipment of rescue parties was. the provision of thermos flasks. Even under the worst conditions a man could be kept alive much .longer if he were warm. The various clubs should nominate medical men, who were prepared to give lectures in first aid during, say, the next six weeks. There should also he a squad of experienced men selected to accompany doctors who were attending accident cases. • - > HUT AT NGARARA BLUFF. Mr. R. V. Kay, seretary of the Stratford Mountain Club, suggested the establishment of a hut at the foot of Ngarara Bluff, which is close to the Manganui Gorge , and near; to the usual" Stratford accent track.

This suggestion was supported by Messrs Murphy and Syme, who briefly enumerated *he great advantages a hut in such a strategic poition would possess.

With regard to the tracks, the chairman said, it was essential that they should have something in the' way of substantial signposts. Mr. Murphy suggested that when the track was ’overed with snow several signposts in the hollows on the ridges would be helpful. The ideal post .’would be 3in by 2in by 6ft of hardwood and painted red. If not cemented in a length of log, barbed-wire should be wound spirally round the pole, which could then be used for no other purpose. At the top there should bo an iron bar pointing both directions. Alpine club officials offered the assistance bf their clubs in -the matter of the erection of these posts, and it was decided to place the matter before the board.... ~ ... . • , •• •. The park boaril would benefit much by the meeting, said the; chairman, and thanks were due to the Egmont Alpine Club for its comprehensive list of suggestions.

j A motion of condolence with the relatives of the late* Mr. Lance Gibson was passed, the meeting standing in sil-ence.-as a ,«iark, of. respefS. " . • "