FOOD OF THE MAORIS

Taranaki Daily News, 25 January 1930, Page 1 (Supplement)

FOOD OF THE MAORIS

RESOURCE IN NEW LAND

(By

C.M.H.)

People of the present day, accustomed as they are to secure food supplies from the shops, etc., find it difficult to understand how the Maori fared when he first reached the shores of New Zealand. The Maori is perhaps the purest strain of the Polynesian race. The Polynesians had been voyagers oyer the great oceans when our own ancestors knew little of seafaring, they being content to paddle about inland lakes and close to shore in small boats made from the hides of animate stretched on willow frames, or other pliable timbers. The ancestors of the Maoris, however,’for quite two thousand years made voyages of thousands of miles in their huge double and single canoes in quest of new lands and adventure, and almost invariably made themselves conquerors of the lands and peoples with whom they made contact. We are informed that the ancient Maori came down from India, and some noted and reliable authorities trace theimmigrations of the Polynesians to even more remote places. Although there were earlier migrations to New Zealand, the last and greatest took place about the year 1350. 'lt was this migration that settled the coastal districts of New Zealand.

. When the Maoris arrived there were no meat-producing 'animate here. Neither was there grain that could be turned into meal and baked for bread. •With the exception of a few dogs and a small vegetarian rat, the Maori brought ;no meat-supplies with him. However, he brought a few ktimaras in his canoes and the tubers of the taro. But being a people of wonderful resource the Maoris were able soon to find foodstuffs in plenty. When the white man first appeared in New Zealand he found the natives to be of fine physique. The women and children were as well nourished as the men.’ This is conclusive proof that the Maori for generations had found ample food. But to secure supplies .every available source had to be investigated.

The forests teemed with bird life, such as the kaka, kiwi, weka and the ground parrot known as ..the kakapo. In the swamps were found wild ducks and pukeko. The rivers produced- eels' and several kinds of small fresh water fish, as well as a shell fish known as the fresh water mussel. From the sea a wonderful variety of fish was taken. The hardihood of the menfolk - was often tested as they had to go a dozen miles to sea in small dug-out canoes to reach the best spots for capturing the larger sharks and hapuka.

Amongst the rocks and reefs' on the seashore, shell-fish abounded, and in some of the reef pools octopi were secured. The octopus was a special dish with the Maori, and iii the old days only chiefs of rank partook of it. Visitors of note were sometimes regaled on this dainty. Around some portions of the coast the forest did hot reach to the seashore, the land being covered with fern. The root.of the common fern was a prolific source of food supply and prepared and cooked by the Maori woman of old formed one of the main articles of food. When properly prepared and preserved it would keep for years. In this form it frequently was carried, by people on a journey or war trail, its sustaining qualities being remarkable. When well roasted its flavour resembled unsweetened biscuit, being meaty in texture. It was generally eaten with fish. This gave to the fernroot a relish. Another product of open lands was the cabbage tree, the root of some species of which provided a food of much value, containing as it did a large percentage of sugar. The roots from young cabbage trees were dug up at the right” season; then split' and- dried. After being scraped they were pounded and squeezed to extract the sugar in the fibres. Sometimes, when food was short, the heart shoots of the foliage- of the cabbage tree were eaten raw, or after being roasted on embers.

Sow-thtetle found on river banks, and cliffs was much sought after. It evidently had a medicinal value, as it .was frequently cooked with fish or kumaras. Another vegetable used in spring and summer - months was the root of the raupo, or bullrush, so common in our swamps. It was eaten raw, and found to be cool t and .refreshing. From the raupo flowering spikes a species of bread was made. The flowers were gently beaten out, mixed with water, and baked into thin cakes. It is stated that these cakes had a sweet flavour, and a taste similar to gingerbread.

The large, scaly root of the horseshoe fern was looked upon as a delicious article of food, but supplies were limited, being found only in the shady recesses of the forests’in the North Island above New Plymouth.

The forest trees and shrubs provided several kinds of berries that were eagerly sought to augment the food supply. The karaka tree provided a long, golden coloured berry which hung in large bunches. The outside rind was eaten raw, while the kernel supplied valuable food which could be stored for future use. In treating the kernels the Maori women first placed them in running water, or a specially constructed dam on a small stream. After being allowed to soak for many we'eks the outer poisonous skin was removed by trampling with the feet. The kernels were then cooked, and used as required.

The hinau berry was also gathered, and after a process of curing was converted into a cake of excellent flavour. The process of gathering and preparing the hinau berries was a laborious one, but the cake produced from it was greatly relished, and only eaten on festive occaisions.' Then the berries of the konini (native fuchsia), the tawa, and several other trees found a place in the larder of the thrifty Maori matron, Many other kinds of foods were secured by the old-time native. Forest, sea and’swamps and river all provided their quota. Enough has been said to show that the Maori was resourceful and ingenious. He had to work hard and frequently brave many dangers and overcome obstacles, but in doing so he gathered from, a new land a wealth of provisions that made him what he was when the pakeha first found him—robust, brave, haqipy and resourceful,