EARLY LONDON SHOWS

Taranaki Daily News, 12 October 1929, Page 22 (Supplement)

EARLY LONDON SHOWS

THE ETERNAL FEMININE. “TEMPERAMENTAL-’ CLOTHES, (By Diana Dane.-—Special to News;) London, Aug. 15. The designers appear* to be divided in opinion as to the silhouette We are to present during the coming months. Some there are who insist on the ultra- feminine line, with all the frilly and furbelows that accompany it. These’specialise in house frocks and evening gown's, rather than out-of-doors clothes. The latter are not neglected, however, and the fem-' inine touch is introduced in’to tailored suits and coat-frocks by means of fresh blouses, jumpers, collars, cuffs and jabots, all pleated, befrilled, lace-trim-med, or embroidered. ’ There is nothing stiff .or starchy about, the models of those who cater for the very feminine woman! Here, then, is inspiration for her who likes neither “rakish” careless-' ness nor uncompromising severity. Aimther group of designers makes tentative efforts to reintroduce the sonsy element —the straight, slender line; -the artful carelessness; the almost boyish freedom from frills and furbelows. These like best to dress the “sporting girl,” although their ensembles look equally well on the one who has never* handled a club or a racquet in her life, so long as.she is slim and bouyant, not too tall and—not too old! With curled coiffures so much in vogue, the enterprise of these designers should meet with a certain amount of success. But who can say? The third group comprises what I call' the “temperamental-designers” who will occasionally turn out a “garconne” getr up with as much pleasure ds they will evolve a super-sophisticated toilette de soiree for the grande dame. It all depends on the mood of the moment! But it should be noted that these people -ard most often in the mood to produce gowns

with draperies, classic lines,.and the simplicity which spells Art with a very big A. AVhen their day and evening frocks are not draped, they follow very closely the line with which we have beeonid familiar* this season —fitting tube-like to the hips, thence widening into full flares. The dipping hem is not so popular, however; the best models in this group are more or less straight all round.

AVhen making sports and eycry-day. clothes,' these designers insist- on. the slender bodice,, which may possibly .extend in the forni bf a’f)arrow‘...yokc td'the hipline where it joins the skirt, the latter being pleated, cut circular' fashion, or flared by means bf.godlets. There .is also a straight, fold-over skirt for which success is predicted as part of a tailormade suit, with a straight, hip-length jacket as the other part.

For sports there are sleeveless, fitting’ sweaters to be worn with pleated or circular skirts and long-slccved coats. And there are long-sleeved jumpers for wear with similar skirts and short, sleeveless cardigans —very much as we have worn them this season. . •

One of the biggdst differences between present season’s fashions and those prepared for the months ahead is to be found in colour. Last week I mentioned blue as a favourite shade of one or two important houses. Now I find that what are called “off-blues” are equally 7 in the picture — grey-blue, green-blue, mauve-blue, and .a blue that looks “inky,” sometimes appearing blue, sometimes purple. AVe have had few “offcolours” this season— beyond white—and certainly purple tones have not bee'll overworked!... But Parma violet figures quite conspicuously in one excellent collection, while orchid-mauve has at least two well-known admirers. Pink remains in vogue—pale, 'cyclamen, and rose, with, cyclamen extremely popular for evening wear. Pale and rose pinks are also used very daintily on black and navyblue afternoon frocks. Harmonics of colour arc features of the early shows as, for instance, yellow with brown and a certai/i dark green tint; grey, coral, and oyster; flame—a notable revival—and black, and so on. There are other colour combinations— I cannot honestly call them harmonics! —which will have a brief life among the wealthy and will then expire.