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IN THE GARDEN

THE WEEK'S WORK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The planting of trees and shrubs can be done. It is essential that the ground should be prepared as thoroughly as possible. Rose planting is now in full swing, and the sooner the bushes are iu the better. Prepare the rose beds as well as means allow. A rose bed is a permanent job, and the work needs to be thorough to be successful. Put through the order for roses and other trees at once; if not ready to plant, heel them in, but do iiot wail till the best have gone, and then growl because the nurseryman cannot supply. Many of the hardier shrubs can be pruned now, but hibiscus, poinsettia, and any on the tender side, should be left till spring, also spring flowering varieties should, bo left till after flowering. Shrubs atacked with sooty scale should bo sprayed with red oil. Dahlias are now over, and the root! can be lifted. The tops should be cut away a week or so before the roots are lifted. Be careful to securely label each root. A wooden tag tied to each is best. Chrysanthemums can he cut down. Clear away all weeds, and stir the soil to encourage a healthy crop of suckers. A few early cuttings of chrysanthemums can be put in now. Do not iu any way force them; shade till rooted, and then grow them hardy. . Hedge planting is a job that is in order just now. There are many varieties, and all good for different positions, it is largely a matter of individual taste or requirements. There are many of the hardy annuals, biennials and perennials that can be planted out now, but anything on the tender side should be kepi back till the end of the month. Seed of sweet peas, stocks, pansies, antirrhinums, pentstemons, etc., can be sown now and any seedlings that are up should be pricked out into boxes. Protection from wet is the chief need of seed or seedlings at this time of the year. Rose cuttings can be planted now. Sonic of the stronger carieties do well as “own root roses,” especially tliu rambler and rampant climbing sorts. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. When the soil is fop wet leave it alone. It is a great mistake to tread about on soil when every footprint is left like a clay cast. Of course, there are some soils that are much more quickly workable after rain than others. Where the soil between crops lias been beaten down by heavy rain the surface should be broken with the hoe. If weeds are very bad the best way is to hand weed the rows of plants and then lightly fork between the- rows, turning the weeds under. Weeds are particularly difficult of control just now, and it is simply a case of doing the best to keep down as much as possible Asparagus beds can be cleaned op. Cut down the tops and burn them. Clean off the weeds and rake off Hie surface soil. Then apply a good dressing of manure or sea-weed, and cover with a little soil from the path. Where the recent rains have shown the garden to be waterlogged, dig open drains to get the water away. Remember that the best of the sun has to be expended in evaporating this surplus water, whereas it should be warming the soil. Fruit tree planting has commenced, and early planting is recommended. Bush fruits, such as currants, raspberries, loganberries, gooseberries, should, be planted at once. Strawberry planting should be hastened on. Once planted, the hoc must be used continually to encourage a free growth. Little leaf growth will be made, but the roots get a good hold of the soil. If there is any sign of disease on the strawberry plants give a spraying at once to keep any new foliage clean. KEEP AWAY SLUGS. Soil fumigants have value, and if properly applied, effectually clear the soil of slugs and other pests and their eggs that may be present, but do not, however, have any effect upon the migratory habits of those that are not present. The consequence is that soil fumigants can only be considered as an aid and not as a complete cure. Remember that slugs and snails find shelter iu decaying matter about the garden: dead leaves, heaps of rubbish, stone?, old boards, old roots, all harbour the pests, and a good deal can be done by a general cleaning up and an application of fumigant in such places. Wet, sodden soil is conducive" to their health and happiness, so that drainage may lessen the quota of personal enemies. Slugs dislike a hard, rough surface, and a liberal dressing of some substances i.t; as a deterrent to their ravages. Gritty sand (not fine, rounded stuff), ground bricks, ashes, cinders, lime in a powder, sawdust soaked in fumigants like paraffin oil, soil fumigants, etc., are all good, all more or less effective, and nil in common use. The best mechanical method, however, depends on the innate energy of every gardener, which defief time and tide; hunt the beggars night and day—you

will save your plants and appreciate the joys of the hunting season. Slugs and snails exude a slime from their bodies that protects them from most substances; they will even crawl through various caustic chemicals by the help of this protective matter, but, as a general rule they consider discretion the better part of valour, and turn back when they encounter any such substance. When chemicals are aplied to kill them plenty must be used, and it must be carefully dusted over them so as to do its work thoroughly. One very good slugieide is lime sulphur solution, at the ordinary spraying dilution.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/TDN19280614.2.79

Bibliographic details

Taranaki Daily News, 14 June 1928, Page 12

Word Count
964

IN THE GARDEN Taranaki Daily News, 14 June 1928, Page 12

IN THE GARDEN Taranaki Daily News, 14 June 1928, Page 12

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