IN THE GARDEN

Taranaki Daily News, 16 March 1928, Page 14

IN THE GARDEN

THE WEEK'S WORK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Every assistance must given the dahlias and disbudding of flower buds and surplus shoots must be done. The dahlia responds quickly to generous treatment and frequent applications of liquid manure. Do not apply too much nitrogenous manure, as it is inclined to make the petals floppy. Keep the plants securely tied, and the blooms selected for exhibition may need some support, and even a little protection from sun and rain. The planting of narcissi, anemones, ranunculi, freesias, English and Spanish iris, may be commenced. The ground is now in good condition for planting. Any lifting of bulbs that has been delayed by the dry weather should be pushed on. The bulbs will soon be making roots once the soil gets moist. Chrysanthemums are looking well since the rain came, and although the plants may be more dwarf than usual, given attention and average weather, the bloom should be quite as good as usual. Keep the plants disbudded, and only allow those to remain that are required to produce flowers. Frequent applications of liquid manure can now be safely given. A teaspoonful of nitrate of potash and two teaspoonfuls of phosphate of potash dissolved in a gallon of water is very good for chrysanthemums. Seed of stocks, antirrhinums, coreopsis, wallflowers, - etc, can be sown, and where seed was sown earlier, and the plants are large enough, they can be planted. Seedlings of pansies, cinerarias, margerite carnations, ployanthus, primroses, Canterbury bells, sweet Williams, myosotis, can be transplanted into nursery beds. Roses should have all the old flowered shoots cut back half-way; this will encourage the production of some good autumn blooms. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The rain has made it possible to get some seed sown, and to make up for the lost time during the dry weather. It is well to remember that it is autumn, and the quicker the seedlings can be encouraged to grow and develop the better it will be. * Raised beds and frequent stirring of the soil will encourage a quick growth. Potatoes should be lifted. To leave them after the tops have died down, now the ground is moist, will cause the tubers to grow- and be spoilt for table use. Lift onions and eschallots, and store as soon as the bulbs are dry. Do not allow them to lie about on the ground getting damp and emitting roots. In warm, protected gardens sowing of , dwarf beans mav produce a crop. Treat the ground with fertiliser prior to sowing the seed, to act as a preventive to bean spot, which attacks the pods of late crops. Make a sowing of cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, radish, spinach, turnips, swedes, shorthorn* carrots, mustard and cress. Continue to keep the tomatoes disbudded of lateral shoots, and the plants tied up. It is still necessary to spray for caterpillars. Clear away crops that are over. Plantings that have suffered unduly from the drought in many cases are best destroyed. This is particularly the case with cabbages and cauliflowers when the centre of the plants has been destroyed with “fly.” Earth up celery as it is required or becomes ‘ ready. It takes about six weeks after earthing for the “sticks” to be in good condition Dust plenty of soot or lime around the “sticks" before earthing up 'to check slugs, etc. Fertiliser is better for this purpose, but it must be dusted on tlie soil, not the plants. ATTRACTIVE GRASSY BANKS. PLANT NARCISSUS BULBS. Many fine effects may be had by planting various varieties of bulbs on grassy slopes or among the orchard trees. A beautiful spring show can be ultimately obtained if thought and care are given to this work. There ire two methods of planting. bulbs in g r ass. One is to punch a hole about 9 inches deep with a heavy crowbar for each bulbs, drop a Tittle new soil into each hole, plant the bulb about 3in deep end cover with fresh soil. This method is advised if single specimens are required every here and there. The second method is to lift a spit of turf with a spade or fork, plant four to six bulbs beneath it and replace the turf, treading lightly in place. Snowdrops are excellent for this type of work and are generally more appreciated when growing in this state as the blooms are always cleaner and not splashed with dirt as sometimes occurs when in ordinary borders. These may be sown thicker than the narcissus family as the bulbs are smaller and therefore much easier to dibble in.

Avoid all formality or arrangement; when planting the aim should be to have them in pretty informal drifts. LACHENALIA BULBS. BEAUTIFUL SUBJECTS. Lachenalia growing is Increasing in popularity year by year, and is indeed a subject worthy of attention. The bulbs are hardy and may be planted either indoors or out. They ate natives of South Africa and are allied to the hyacinth family, the best variety being Aureum, golden yellow, with orange and green tips. Bulbs planted now will flower in August. Twelve is the right number for a Gin pot, the tops of the bulbs being half an •inch from the surface of the soil. A mixture of soil, rotted leaves and sand is the best compost to use, and if leaf mould is obtainable so much the better.

For basket growing these bulbs are unexcelled. Pack the basket tightly with moss and fill with soil, planting the bulbs in the sides as well as on top. By growing lachenalias in this method the beautiful spotted leaves are able to hang down without interference, the flower spikes standing bolt upright, making a fine splash of eoionr m •oxverandah.

LACHENALIAS. BEDS OF LILIES. Groups of mixed lilies are always attractive, whether on lawns, in borders or in front of the shrubbery. If at the foot of a warm wall or fence, so much the better, though stem rooting lilies like a little shade. The soil should be light—heavy soil must be lightened by the addition of leaf mould and sand or road grit. Planting should be done as early as possible. The bulbs do not always arrive in time for autumn plant, ing, but if they can be put in then it is a great advantage. Failing autumn, plant them as soon in the spring as the soil is workable. Lilium auratum, L. spcciosum, L. tigritum. L. Martagon, with their varieties, are some of the indispensables, and to these should be added L. regale, L. superbum, L. umbellatum, L. elegans, and its varieties, and L. Hausoni. GREEN MANURING. Any gardener who is unable to obtain sufficient farmyard manure to supply the needs of his fruit trees, or if the garden soil is so light that dry summers spell trouble for the trees, should consider the possibilities of “green manuring.” This is an excellent means of bettering the soil at small cost and with little trouble. It consists of sowing the land between the trees with mustard, vetch or tares. ■ These green crops are allowed to grow away during the autumn and when full grown, but before tley flower are cut down and dug into the soil. The greenstuff is almost as good as animal manure, supplies an excellent drought-resisting quality to light soils, and gives “body” to most. Green crops sown“now could be dug in in May, in time to permit tree plantings immediately afterwards. LEEKS. I.eeks are growing now, and should be moulded or earthed up a little from time to time, as they advance, taking care always to leave the growing point as well as most of the foliage free. This invaluable vegetable is now much more greatly esteemed and cultivated than it used to be. Few people have any idea how delicately-flavoured and really delicious leeks are when well grown. Another point in their favour is there almost absolute hardiness—it takes a very severe frost to touch a leek. Rich soil plenty of moisture are their chief requirements. And admirable material with which to mould up these plants where it can be obtained is burnt earth, or the product of’a smother fire. Although it appears contrary to the principles of good gardening, yet it is advisable, in practice, to cut off the points, of tlie long leaves occasionally during growth.. CABBAGES.

The young cabbage plants raised from seed at the end of January, if watered, should by now be sturdy little plants. It is not advisable to commence planting them out too early, but as a rule a small batch may be safely planted out about the third' week in March, with others during the first half of April. They will form hearts earlv next season, and come into use from September to November. In the meantime prepare the plot intended for them, digging it well to a depth of at least two spades, and worki: in a moderate quantity of manure. If the ground has not had any lime for two or three years a moderate quantity, about half a lb to tlie square yard, should be spread on first, or it may be done after the plot lias been trenched, letting it lie a few days, and then just pricking it into the surface with a fork before putting in the plants. Very little club root is ever found on land that is well and regularly limed, and lime in some form is almost indispensable to the healthy growth of the cabbage. If no ordinary lime is used, give a light dressing of superphosphate, bonemeal or basic slag. CELERY. It .is now time to attend to' earthing np all but the latest batch of celery. This is a job which should be done in due season before the plants get out of band. This soil about the roots must be in a thoroughly moist condition. Tie or hold the leaf stalks closely together while earthing up proceeds, and press the soil gently around them. In the course of a week or so this earthing-up soil will settle a good deal. An assistance in the way of fertilisers cannot easily be given after the earthing-up is finished; it will be worth while, that is if it is needed, to give a little stimulant before commencing the job. At the same time dust plenty of soot or lime along the trenches to keep slugs away.