ASSAULT ON MOUNT COOK

Taranaki Daily News, 8 February 1928, Page 11

ASSAULT ON MOUNT COOK

ELTHAM RESIDENT’S CLIMB. MANY DANGERS OF ASCENT. PERIL OF AVALANCHE AND CREVASS (From Our Own Correspondent.) Eltham, Feb. 6. Your correspondent had an interesting chat with Mr. H. Murray, accountant to the Taranaki Electric Power Board, who is a keen mountaineer. He bus to his credit. numerous climbs that are, in fact, quite difficult for aven an experienced alpinist, let alone those of us who rarely trouble about climbing to higher elevations. One of Mr. Murray's eherishe.. dreams was a climb to the top of Mount Cook, one of the most difficult mountainous reaches of New Zealand, if not of the world. After the preliminary arrangements he left Eltham during the recent holiday season wtih the idea of climbing Mount Cook. His first attempt was made in company with Mr. S. Turner, of Wellington. Their objective was the high peak (12,349 ft. from the Tasman Glacier. They left the Hermitage about 10 a.m. on January 1, and travelled to the Ball Hutt on horseback. Owing to the rough nature of the country progress was some what slow, and for comfort one would prefer to walk this 14 miles. Towards evening they set out for the Memorial Hutt, situated about 3000 ft. up the Haaet ridge, which is reached after travelling two miles or so up the Tasman Glacier, and beyond the famous Hockstetter ice fall. The ice fall is wonderful, and is really the Linda Glacier trav 11i..g down a steep slope of over 2000 ft. The Haast ridge provided strenuous work as they were packing about 451bs each, and they were not sorry to reach the comfort of the hut. A strong wind postponed further progress till the next day, and towards evening snow began to (all, continuing for the greater part of the night. Dawn broke clear and fine, and by midday the party decided to explore higher up the slopes and kick steps if conditions were hopeful for the climb next day. Everything seemed favourable and they travelled over Glacier Domes, across the Grand Plateau, round the dangerous and well respected Silverhom corner, on to the main part of the Landa Glacier, Up to this point the glacier had not proved troublesome, but lack of time prevented further progress for the day, so the climbers returned to the hut, and packed all the gear and food ready for the climb on the morrow.

At 2 a.m. on the fourth, the party set out, and with the aid of a lantern their steps were easily followed, although 200 ft. of steep rock proved somewhat awkward under the circumstances. A MAZE OF CREVASSES. Before dawn they were beyond the steps made the previous day, and at times had considerable difficulty in finding a way through the maze of crevasses. This part of the glacier was very broken, and after a couple of hours’ work, the duo seemed no nearer their objective. Within half-an.hour of sunrise the temperature became oppressive, and it was realised that the heat would cause the recent snow to avalanche and, in fact, for the remainder of the day avalanches were continually seen and heard. By 9 a.m. the heat was almost unbearable as the party was practically surrounded by walls of ice and snow with the sun beating square on to the general slope. A very steep slope led on to the Upper Linda, and it was found that crevasses were less frequent, but the snow was uncomfortably soft. In many places care had to be taken that they did not start the snow moving, especially on those steeper slopes, as in no place was the danger of falling into a crevaas entirely absei.t. Some of these gaps in the ice were up to 30ft. wide, several hundred yards in length, and perhaps several hundred feet deep. The greater the depth, the denser the blue of the ice, and in some places it appeared quite black. Owing to the extreme whiteness of the surface snow many of the crevasses were indistinguishable until one was right on them. As the day advanced the heat increased, and every few minutes an avalanche was seen, and now and again a tremendous roar would denote one of large dimensions, but fortunately none of that variety came towards the party. ALjut 11 a.m., when the climbers realised their chances of success were very small, an avalanche was seen coming straight for them from under the summit rocks of Mt. Cook. Strange to relate it made no noise until it reached a erevass about a hundred yards ahead of them. They hoped that it would end at the erevass, but it did not, and a hurried retreat was made to one side as they were right in its path. To the relief of the party, it did not reach them, although many large snowballs went flying past, and they- hoped that their hurried movements over the soft snow would not start it moving again. To have gone on, they would have had to cross the loose enow which he I just come down, or bear away to the left and run the risk of an ice avalanche. This was a small glacier overhanging a cliff and big lumps fell all too frequently to make the risk attractive. TENSE MOMENTS EXPERIENCED. It was obvious to the party that they were several hours late in reaching that point (9500 ft. up), so they decided to retire, and immediately sought the refuge of an ice hill a thousand feet below, surrounded by crevasses, and not liable to be swept by avalanches. Here they ate a meal and had a well-earned rec before seeking lower levels. The heat was terrific on the main part of the glacier, and the snow had softened to a depth of 2 feet, and still greater care had 'to be exercised on steep slopes to prevent avalanches. They experienced many tense moments. Snory bridges that were frozen in the early morning werq very soft, and'liable to’break any minute, but they Were ' frosted without mishap. . , ths Jutaat jsEzw JCl.KOf'ruirn jjgj®

great overhanging blocks of ice, and it seemed incredible, that, they .should , remaiq poised. The party hurried past these, and other such places, at a speed which is generally not consistent with safety. Once clear of the Silverhom corner and out on the plateau they breathed more freely, and had another rest, which was very necessary owing to the terrific .heat. The climbers’ canteens were long since empty, and the pangs of thiret were keenly felt. On the plateau side of the Silverhom they saw that a huge avalanche had come away. A solid block of ice about half an acre in extent and 20ft. thick had fallen a distance of 100 ft. on to the easier slope of the plateau. It w T as a dreary pull up to Glacier Dome, and when they gained the rocks, melted snow was taken as a drink, and an hour’s sleep was taken before descending to the hut. At midnight Guides Pope and Williams, accompanied by Mr. E. Lewis, of Christchurch, arrived, and reported a sue, cessful but very strenuous climb, having taken 22 hours from the Memorial Hut and back. The ascent from the hut bad taken them 13 hours. Realising that conditions would not be favourable for several days, Messrs. Murray and Turner returned o the Hermitage next day. SECOND ATTEMPT SUCCEEDS. The second attempt was made with Guide Williams via the Hooker Glacier, and then up a very steep rock face to the low peak (11,785 ft. Mr. Murray could not speak too highly of Ijis companion's ability and comradeship throughout the trip. The route completed was entirely new to both men, and had not been climbed for several years. They left the Hermitage about 9 p.m. on January 7, with packs weighing over 501bs, and made good time to the Hooker Hut seven miles out. The next day they collected food and other necessary gear and set out for a bivouac above Pudding Rock, well up on the Hooker Glacier, and it was no easy task packing 751bs. apiece to that point of vantage. Scrambling over the loose masses of boulders forming the morraines proved very tiresome, and it was deemed advisable to postpone the actual elimb till the Tuesday, but on the Monday afternoon the pair of enthusiasts set out to find a way through the crevasses and kick stops to the foot of the rocks. The upper part of the glacier was found to be very broken, but the snow was in good condition. At daylight on the 10th a start was made, and they reached to the end of the steps. The snow was firm and, using crampons, they skirted the lower rocks, then continued up the glacier, gaining another 1000 ft. or so in good time. To gain the rocks a very flimsy snow bridge was negotiated in safety, and a six hours’ rock climb commenced. This ridge must be nearly 4000 feet in height, but is good solid rock, and so steep as to appear perpendicular. The outline of the rocks above seemed to remain the same for hours on end. It was no place to make mistakes, for a false move might have sent the mountaineers from 1000 to 6000 ft. Before midday the party was above the surrounding peaks, which presented a wonderful sight to the south. At the top of the rocks a meal was taken before climbing to the ice cap with the aid of crampons, and it was a relief to travel on ice for the remainder of the climb. The summit was reached at 12.15, and one could never forget the picture of the ridge running on to the high peak, nor the excellence of the view. Peaks which appeared formidable from 9000 ft. now appeared dwarfed below them. Away to the south one could easily see Mts. Aspiring and Earnshaw towering above the others. To the north lay the Tasman Glacier . bout 25 miles in length, and beyond it Mts. Malta, Brun, Minarets, Hamilton, and apparently hundreds of others, which made a magnificent eight. Both coasts were plainly visible, also lakes Pukaki, Ohau, and Taupo on the Canterbury side of the ranges. On the Westland side, what is regarded as the Cook river could be traced from the mountains to the sea. DISTANCES DECEPTIVE. It was all wonderful, but the most impressive of all was the summit ridge leading to the high peak. The high peak appeared like a sharp pinnacle, and only a few hundred yards away; yet it must have been about 4 miles, and to cut steps to it would have taken the remainder of the day. A gusty wind from the nori-west made such a move out of the question, and in any case such had not been reckoned on. Below, the Hermitage seemed very close, although actually 13 miles away, yet people could be seen with the naked eye. There was no time for delay, and, after securing a dozen photographs, the descent was begun. By the time the snow was reached again Mr. Murray’s fingers were sore from holding on to the rocks, and in several places the skin was worn away, but the trip was worth all of that. It was found that the snow had softened to a depth of 3ft., and progress was very slow. Smail avalanches were started at nearly every step, and secure "holds” were difficult to find.

Owing to the changes wrought by a hot sun the party could not follow their tracks down, and had to seek out another route through the crevasses. Just at sunset comparative safety was reached, an at this time was witnessed as grand a sight as one could. wish for. The party stood at the mouth of a huge iee cave, and the setting sun tinged the interior with a magnificent pink colour. In fact, the whole of the glacier was bathed in this beautiful tone. It is impossible to describe it, and one’s imagination must fall far short of the reality. Lower down, they were in shadow, and, finding the snow firmer, the pair made better progress, arriving at the bivouac about 8 p.m., the day’s elimb having occupied 16 hours.

On the morning following a strong wind prevented any cooking of breakfast, and caused a hasty retreat. Being burdened by large packs the wind caused a little difficulty in the descent of the Pudding Rocks, but it was accomplished without incident. This rock (about 100 ft.) is worn comparatively smooth by the actions of avalanches, and good footholds -re rare. Once on the Hooker Glacier again no difficulty was experienced. The comrades were ravenously hungry when they reached the Hooker hut, and lost no time in preparing a meal. They slept an hour before returning to- (bv Hermitage, which was reached at' 30 ani., this ending a most educational and wonderful trio.