IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 18 December 1926, Page 9

IN THE GARDEN.

POTTING PLANTS.

The reason small pots arc advised is that as the soil must be kept moist and it is confined within a small space, it becomes soar unless the roots can work amongst it. Potting soil is usually specially prepared, and, being really concentrated plant food, the plant thrives, al'hough its roots are confined. As to how the roots fuiiction, this is beyond me. Plants in the open ground can Send their roots in any direction desired, and such ground does not become sour, unless the drainage is deficient, in which case the plants soon get unhappy.

To the best of my ability I have answered E.T.’s queries, and dealt with the matters contained in Ills letter. If there is anything further lie or any other reader would like to know they should not hesitate to write. Cooperation between the writer and reader will assuredly give the maximum of service, and as this column is for the benefit of gardeners—especially amateur gradetiers—around Wellington they should make use of it to ths utmost.

THE PLANTING OF SEEDLINGS,

At this season of the —t- <••• • the most important operations in the flower garden is the planting-out of annuals of various kinds. When done carelessly this operation is attended by many casualties. The plants should be lifted with as little disturbance to the roots as possible; a trowel is the correct tool to use for the purpose as then the soil can bo retained. Make the holes to take the seedlings with a trowel and fill them with water, inserting the plants in the resulting puddle. Firm the soil well round the plant and leave a saucer-like depression. This not only facilitates watering which may be necessary at a later date, but thj depression gradua'ly fills up and keeps the plants firm. If the plants are puddled in this way they should not require any further watering until after they commence to grow. Many plants arc lost through being badly planted with a dibble—the roots for quently being left hanging through neglect to fill in the bottom of the hole. The illustration shows what happens when bulbs are planted in this way, and the same happens with plants. A ery choice plants or those which are extra delicate, or again those which when lifting lose ail the soil from the roots, are better shaded for a few days after planting, especially if the wen-.

ther should be very hot or dry. A few leafy twigs stuck into the ground round them, or a flower pot placed over them, are good methods of shading. The rough weather lately experienced has done much damage to flowers just starting to open. It will be wise to go round the plants and cut off any damaged blooms. or broken branches. This will encourage the future blossoms, and as the injured flowers will not be any use in any case there is no advantage in leaving them on the plants. Al! the surface soil among growing plants, whether flowers or vegetables, will require to be loosened up as the late heavy rains have caused a crust to form.

WEEDS ON PATHS.

The following appeared in an Auckland paper recently:—“For killing weeds on garden paths, the method of treatment depends upon the nature of the weeds and the character of the rooting medium. A weed-killer ot sufficient strength to destroy weeds growing on a hard, dry surface of barren I clay may be quite ineffective when apI plied to perennial weeds growing in I good soil, which latter condition often occurs where the only preparation for the patch is the addition of a coverin'# of gravel. Cases are known where a comparatively weak solution has been sufficient to clean paths and to keep them clean for a year or more. There have been cases where a much stronger solution had to be several times repeated to kill the roots of sorrel and couch grass. The strength required must vary according-to circumstances, and is a matter for experiment. There are several proprietary weed-killers that have proved most effective. They have the advantage of requiring only the admixture of water, and anyone who would rather use them than go to the trouble of making their own may do so with confidence.

“Arsenic and Soda.—Mix 11b of arsenic to a paste with a little water, and add this to two gallons of water in a kerosene tin. Place on a fire, preferably in the open air, and when the liquid boils add 21b of washing soda, keeping the mixture well stirred until the arsenic and soda arc completely dissolved. Make up to 10 gallons or to ■25 gallons according to the nature of the weeds to be destroyed. Another recipe is to dissolve the arsenic by means of caustic -soda, using IJlb of caustic soda to lib of white arsenic in half a gallon of water, making up to 10 or 15 gallons with w/ter, according to the weeds.”