IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 19 June 1925, Page 10

IN THE GARDEN.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. INTER -CROPPING. It is a mistake to crop the ground without a definite and pre-arranged plan. It should be the aim of the cultivator to keep all the ground under a crop during the growing season, and this means sowing, or planting again as soon as one crop is lifted. Often even this can be improved, and vegetables that mature quickly can be sown or planted between those that take a longer time to mature. Thus spinach seed can often be sown between the rows of the main-crop potatoes, and the spinach is ready for picking before the potatoes nFed earthing up. Similarly, when the trenches for celery and leeks are opened up, a crop of lettuces can be taken off the ridges. Radishes, spinach and lettuce are often grown between the rows of peas, and the slight shade cast by the peas is more to their advantage than otherwise. It will be readily understood that this intensive cultivation takes a heavy toll of the fertilising elements in the soil, and the systematic addition of chemical fertilisers becomes an unavoidable necessity, if the full vigor of the crop is to be maintained. Nitrogen is the element which becomes soonest exhausted, .and periodical dressings of sulphate of ammonia are required to restore fertility. CROP ROTATION. Crop rotation is a matter that does not usually claim the attention that it should, and we feel sure that if the amateur gardener was aware of the amount of good resulting, "both from finer produce, and wealthier crops, he would no doubt bestow a little more attention to this very important subject. It naturally stands to reason that producing a similar crop on the same piece of land, year after year, gradually but assuredly deprives the soil of certain constituents so necessary for the production of the crop in question, besides greatly encouraging the spread of disease to which that particular crop is subject. A thorough and systematic rotations is therefore essential in order to reap maximum returns, both from your soil and labours. The following hints and table will show at a glance what vegetables may precede or .succeed eadh other in rotation:—

1. Plants belonging to the same natural order should not be allowed to succeed each other.

2. Some crops are a. good preparation for others, as, for instance, onions after celery. 3. Rotation assists in checking the devastation of insects and fungi to which a crop may be subject. 4. Deep-rooted crops enrich the top soil for the benefit of shallow-rooted varieties which may follow. 5. Different crops require plant food in varying proportions, a rotation is, therefore, more economical of manure. 6. A definite system of rotation affords better opportunities for cleaning the ground. 7. Rotations allow of a better distribution of labour throughout the year. | 8. Plants cultivated for their roots, should not be succeeded by others grown for a like purpose. •9. Rotations may extend for a considerable time, according to the size of the garden, quality of the soil, products required and manures at command. HORSE RADISH. Usually this plant is allowed to look after itself in some out-of-the-way corner, but fine specimens wTn never result from £his negative policy. New ■ shoots may be planted now. Dig the soil to a good depth, but fresh manure must not be added, otherwise the roots will be badly shaped. Plant the crown about ten inches apart each way, and a I position should be selected where they tan remain undisturbed. THE FLOWER GARDEN. SEASONABLE. WORK. Plant out pansies. •Plant liliums, gladioli, and monj blretias. I Lift, divide, and replatit Michael- , mas daisies. Prepare the ground for sweet peas. There is a general “tidying up’’ proceeding now in most gardens. Leaves are being swept up, the tops of herb* ceous plants are cut down, fruit trees are pruned, and so #n,* and too often the amateur’s energies are directed towards trimming the branches of shrubs. Sometimes little harm is done, but if such, q.s the winter jasmine and the golden bell tree (Forsythia) come, under the ever-ready ’ knife,’ the flowering branches will be removed. The time to prune these shrubs is in spring, when th e flowers have faded. CUTTINGS. Shrub cuttings of many sorts can be planted now. These include buddies. tamarish, privet, barberry, laurel, olearia, forsvthia, flowering currant, choisya, all the flowering brooms, weigela, and hydrangeas. LILY OF THE VALLEY. Much can bp done at this season of the year for the welfare of these beautiful flowers. Remove the weeds, and give the bed a light forking all over, afterwards giving a good mulch of decayed manure and leaf mould mixed. This should cover the bed to depth of quite three inches. MICHAELMAS DAISIES. Gardeners who prefer the dwarf variety of Michaelmas daisies should plant the Amellus species, which grow only two feet high. The leading sorts are “King George,” violet blue; “Rudolph Goethe,” lavender blue; “Perary’s favourite,” pink; “Ultramarine/* bluish purple; ‘'Beauty of Rousdort,” heliotrope, and “Mrs. Perry,” lilac. BULB LEAVES. It is not at all uncommon for bulbs grown in pots in the green house to have yellow tips to the leaves, with the result that their beauty is marred. This is due to the plants having been suddenly exposed to strong light, when’ taken from the darkened position they were placed in when first potted. • The fresh growth piercing the soil

is blanched, and it is necessary to shade it for a few days, so that it may become accustomed gradually to full light. If this precaution is observed the leaves are not likely to be disfigured by'yellow tips. PREPARE FOR SWEET PEAS. Tn these days most amateurs realise that fine sweet peas cannot be grown unless the soil has been deeply worked. Now is the time (if weather permits) to trench the sites intended to accommodate them next spring. Work the soil to a depth of at least two feet, ji d incorporate plenty of decayed num lire together, with leaf mould and wood ashes. Leave the surface of •<dl in the rough* ht possible state. DELPHINIUMS. Delphiniums are one of the r?w herbaceous plants which are better left year after year without being lifted and divided. The disturbing of the roots checks the flowering properties, and frequently they will not flower the first season after being removed. PERENNIAL PHLOX. The best heads of bloom on these perennials, are obtained, by lifting, dividing, and replanting the clumps in alternate years. This gives the opportunity to trench and manure the roots, prevents the overcrowding of the growths. A moderately heavy loamy soil is the best for phlox, combined with some leaf mould and wood ashes, an ideal mixture is produced. ftINTS ON ROSES. Frequenty well-established bushes get swirled about by winter gales, such as we have just experiepced. Many of the plants will have a hole all rfnmd the “neck.” and this frequently gets filled with rain, and has a bad effect on the* bush generally, so look over the bed periodically, and where any holes exist at the base of the tree they should be filled up, using moderately dry potting Trickle this by hand into each hole, and ram firm by means of a strong stick. The plants will be greatly benefited by this treatment. Dress the rose beds with basic slag, Boz to the yard: hoe in lightly. Rose beds should not be wider than six feet, because .it is then possible to do all the cultural operations from each side of the bed, instead of stepping amongst the bushes, and causing the soil to cake. Loose planting is responsible for many failures. Remove the soil to a depth of two feet; break up the bottom soil well, and mix with a little basic slag. Place

turf in the bottom, grass side down, then a shovelful of soil on the top of it: then place the rose bush in position, cover the roots carefully, and tread down; add more soil, and tread down again: and so on, until the surface is reached; scatter a little bonemeal on top, and place a name-stake in position. Roses are freer from mildew when planted on well-worked and moderately rich soil in a good open position.