IN THE GARDEN.

Taranaki Daily News, 3 February 1923, Page 11

IN THE GARDEN.

THE VEGETABLE PLOT. (By 11 Agri cola.) Seeds to Sow.—Dwarf beans, beet, cabbage, carrot, endive, lettuce, mustard and cress, onions for pickling, dwarf peas, parsley, radish, spinach, silver-beet, and turnip. What to Plant.—Broccoli, cabbage, celery, leeks, and winter greens. SWEDE TURNIPS. Yellow turnips may be grown in precisely the same manner as the white varieties, but a partially shaded position should, if possible, be selected for present sowings. The best course of procedure, when preparing the ground for the crop, is to excavate shallow trenches to a depth and width of about one foot, and into these carry six or eight inches depth of decayed manure, tread firmly, and cover with about four inches of the soil that was taken out. A dressing of lime may be raked into the surface soil, for in common with other quick-growing plants of the crutiferous order, turnips are much improved by the addition of lime to the soil. The seed should be sown, in shallow drills along the centre of each trench, and the surface afterwards firmed. Another commendable plan, in the absence of anima] manure, is to form drills three inches deep and the same in width and to fill these nearly to the top with a mixture of basicslag, or superphosphate and soil; then cover with a thin layer of fine earth, sow the seed along the centre of each drill, .cover lightly and make firm. Early thinning, consistent hoeing, and occasionally dusting the soil plants . with soot, wood-ashes or fertiliser will materially assist to promote the quick growth which is essential to the production of good and succulent turnips. The ground should be kept in a moist but not over watered condition, throughout the whole period of growth, and it will be necessary to keep insect pests in check by spraying the plants at intervals with tar-water, diluted carbolic acid or kerosene emulsion- The obnoxious odours exhaled by these concoctions act as a deterrent as well as a contact insecticide. I With regard to varieties of yellow i turnips best suited for garden cultivation, Lang’s garden swede or Sutton’s Perfection are approved kinds that can be recommended for the purpose. ROUTINE WORK. BEANS. "Whore there is a constant demand for dwarf-beans a sowing may be made now to furnish a useful supply of pods in April. Crops in bearing should be regularly relieved of their pods, for the swelling of a few seeds in neglected pods will cause the plants to cease bearing. Runner beans in bearing should be given an occasional watering with liquid manure in order to increase the weight and quality of the crop. The copious rains have caused the plants in most instances to grow very rapidly, hence it will be advisable to pinch out the tips of the leading shoots when the plants are about five feet in height. In cases where the flowers refuse to set, syringe or lightly hose the foliage on mornings and evenings of fine days. BEET. Late autumn and winter supplies may be provided for by sowing the long rooted kinds during the present month. Thorough preparation of the ground is essential to the cultivation of tender roots of handsome shape. Sprinkle a light dressing of salt along each side of the rows after the seed has been covered, and repeat the operation when the plants are three or four inches above ground. CARROT. Make further sowings, as required, of carrot so as to ensure a constant supply of young and tender roots. A variety of the short horn type is the most suitable for present sowing for these kinds mature more rapidly than the long sorts. If possible, dust a little wood-ash into the drills before the seed is sown.

Keep the soil loose and well drawn up about the stems of cucumbers, marrows and pumpkins. Where Ahe plants arc producing a redundancy of shoots prompt thinning will be necessary in order that light and air may freely enter. Attention must also be given to stopping the leading growths before they extend very far so as to induce a compact habit of growth. A few of the young fruit, on reaching a useful size, should be cut from each plant, leaving the remainder to fully mature for winter use. Liberal doses of weak liquid manure administered to cucumbers, marrows, and pumpkins at intervals of about ten days will add vigour to the plants and conduce to a heavy crop of fruit. SILVER BEET. The leaf stalks of silver-beet may be easily blanched by remo”ing the tops and bottoms of petrol tins and placing them over the plants. A further sowing of this vegetable may be made during the next ''few weeks to provide stalks for pulling in winter and spring. Nitrate of soda, in liquid form, is the most potent stimulant to apply to silver beet, and is especially beneficial during hot weather. A handful to a kerosene tin full of water is the right quantity to use, but care is needed to see that the nitrate, is dissolved before the liquid is applied.

Consistent hoeing among ' all crops is one of the most important operations that can engage the gardener’s attention during the month- The work of thinning crops, weeding, and watering no satirical intent is implied—when necessary will also require to be sedulously followed throughout the next few weeks. THE FLOWER GARDEN. SEASONABLE WORKBUDDING ROSES. The budding of roses offers an interesting departure from the ordinary routine work of gardening, and by thib means many an unsatisfactory roseplant may be converted into an object of beauty and fioriferonsnoss at the expense of a little care and attention to detail. The first consideration, after having selected the plants to be budded upon, is to choose growths that have clean, bright bark and are not more than twelve months old. Into these the buds

j have to be inserted by the procedure of i what is termed T. budding, which is as follows:—Take a sharp pen-knife and cut through the bark on the outer side of the stock in the form of the letter T, taking care to make the incision as near as possible to the base of the shoot. The bud selected for inserting should be plump and severed cleanly from the parent plant, leaving a portion of the leaf stock to form a handle for inserting the bud. The bud should have the wood removed at the back, otherwise a union cannot take place. The bark of the stock should now be carefully opened at the point where the incision was made and the bud inserted and bound firmly, but not too lightly, with some soft material, such as tape, that has been wetted before being used. In about one month, if the operation has been successful, the buds -will begin to swell. An almost sure sign that a union is effected is when the portion of the petiole below the bud drops after a week or so on being lightly touchedThe growths that have been budded on should not be cut back until the buds have commenced to grow, otherwise the sap flow would be too strong for the buds. 4 Tn the case of dwarf seedling briars or briars raised from cuttings, the surface soil should be removed a few inches deep so that the bud may be inserted just above the root. This will, in a great measure, prevent suckers springing from the base. It will be advisable if the weather continues dry to give the plants to be budded on, a good soaking of water two or three days before inserting the buds so as to encourage the sap to run freely. RAMBLER ROSES. Rambler roses must be kept in vigorous growth, by cutting out old. spent wood and thinning out any superflous strong growths. After pruning, tie out or down any strong shoots that are running out of place. Some amateurs unwisely prune their rambling roses in winter and wonder why their plants do not bloom like other peoples. 'Some of the single rambler roses require but little pruning. A charming variety called sinica anemone needs but little knifing. If left to ramble, it spreads itself out so that every branch gets its share of light. If unpruned, it develops innumerable small branches which are massed with flower. If pruned, it is liable to send out a limited number of small shoots, and a correspondingly limited number of flowers. One compensation for pruning, however, worth noting is that the flowers are almost twice the size and brighter in colour. GENERAL. Plant out seedling polyanthus and lift and divide established plants. Canterbury ibells, and wallflowers should be sown without further delay. Bulbs may be lifted if necessary, but nothing is gained by disturbing narcissus bulbs too often. Once in three years is enofigh if the plants are doing well, but on the lapse of this period the bulbs should be taken up and divided. Before re-planting break up the soil to a depth of at least eighteen inches and if it is poor, work in a quantity of .thoroughly decayed and well broken up cow manure. Failing this apply a top dressing of bone dust or basic slag after the bulbs have been planted- The use of rank manurej should be strictly avoided. A small planting of anemones and ranunculus may be made this month.

Arabis, ally sum, and aubretia root readily from cuttings which may be planted now in a partially shaded position.