IMPRESSIONS OF THE SOUTH ISLAND.

Colonist, Volume LIII, Issue 13225, 30 September 1911, Page 3

IMPRESSIONS OF THE SOUTH ISLAND.

Mr. Henry D. Baker, American Vice Consul General, who has been touring the South Island oi New Zealand during the last month, has ictnnicd to Wellington. Ho went as far South as Stewart Island, and visited botli tho East and West Coasts. With relation to bis impressions of tho South Island, Mr. Raker says:—

"I was much interested in the enterprising public^ works being projected in tho South" Island, especially in tho irrigation schemes under way in Otago, and in the great Arthur's Pass tunnel near the Otira George, which will put the East and West Coasts of the South Island in easy access of each other. Irrigation and intercommunication seem to be what important sections of the South Island need in order that their industries should bo rewarded with tho fullest measure of prosperity, and it is illustrative of New Zoaland energy and pluck that the difficulties which now to some extent limit tho progress of the South Island are being surmounted by great engineering works, which in the skill displayed in their construction would be a credit to any nation. In company with Mr. F. W. Furkert, Government Engineer of Dunedin, I took a trip through several parts of Otago which are to be benefited by Government irrigation works. Starting from Palnierston South, we crossed the mountains near tho coast and emerged into the great dry Maniototo Plain, where the Government proposes to redeem by irrigation about 60,00fl acres. "We passed one night at Nnsebv, which has boon supported for a groat many years past from tho alluvial gold diggings in the neighbourhood. Los-s than oO gold diggers are now left here, and agriculture seems to bo much needed to supplement mining as a means of prosperity, but though there is some rich soil about, yet it seems too dry, and irrigation in this particular vicinity may havo to wait until tho diggings are entirely played out, so that the water now needed for sluicing and dredging may become available for agriculture. From Nasoby wo rode about 70 miles into tho Ida Valley, whore an irrigation project at a cost of £70,00 will give assurance of bountiful crops to about 20.000 acres of land. Eventually the scheme may bo extended by means of some pumping to cover altogether 00.000 acres. All through Otago Central the seasons in _ recentyears seem to have become drier and drier, so that without irrigation it seems hopeless to try and raise good crops, though the soil is naturally rich. The repented burning down of groat areas of the native tussocks, intervening grasses also being destroyed, together with the eating down of the grasses by the rabbits, has appar- j ently so diminished the natural protecting cover of the ground, that when the winds sweep over it from the mountains the moisture is all dried out.

Unfortunately there arc not forests in this part of Otago, either to act as wind breaks for the plains, or to conserve some of the natural moisture from rainfall and melting snows. I was glad to notice near Xaseby some tree planting by prison labour, and it appeared to me that it was an extremely judicious idea to put these prisoners to such useful work, and it almost seems a pity that New Zealand, being such a law abiding country, has so very few prisoners available for such beneficial work of afforestation, for thousands of treeplanters, instead of only a few score. could find a great scone of usefulness to the country. In (Hugo Central the absence of trees not only seems bad from an agricultural standpoint, but it makes it expensive to build fences, houses, etc., and it was curious to notice the more general use of iron than of timber for so many purposes. iron costing less to briiv in than timber. Moreover, lignite, which fortunately is very plentiful, seems a cheaf) substitute for firewood. It poems likely that the various irrigation schemes that are contemplated in Central Otago. including about ten blocks of many thousands of acres in addition to the Ida Valley and Maniototo schemes already mentioned, will when carried out, have a favourable climatic influence-, and induce more rainfall even in districts outside of the limit of the irrigated areas. Very likely some irrigation will he necessary before tree planting could be carried on to any important extent. It has been the experience with irrigation in tho United States that once agriculture and arboriculture becomewell started, that rainfall tends to increase, and the actual need of irrigation grows less. There are vast tracts of country on the former treeless plains of our Western States, which uiice were scarcely fit for grazing purposes, which to-day have a regular rainfall sufficient to grow large crops independent of irrigation. Apparently one of the best points about restoring prosperity to Otago Central by irrigation, is that it wn.v put on a better paying basis the railway which now has to depend largely for'its freight on the traffic in rabbit skins.

After returning to Palmerston South we travelled up the beautifully fertile and well-watered coast country to Oaniaru. and from there went north-westward to take a look at the irrigation works at Otekaite. at the Steward Settlement, whore at'a cost of about £25,000 about 21,000 acres have been given assurance of steady good crops in years to come. It is remarkable what a difference in climate there is a short distance brick from tho coast. At Oannru it was raining hard when we left, but at Duntroon it was quite dry, though some tantalising clouds huiig about the sky. Thero is a very noticeable diminution in prosperity as tho coast country is left, and some hard luck stories are to be hoard, as, for instance, the village blacksmith at one small township had accounts owing him for three years back, as tho crops had failed and he had to trust his patrons and Providenco for better days to come. _ But probably just one season with irrigation wiil remove all hard times from tho district, and the water is now available for irrigation. The irrigation works are of interesting construction as regards control of the feeding streams and channels through which tho water is distributed. In some cases tho water is made to run on the syphon principle, under, roads and intersecting streams. The Otakaite river is diverted at strategic points by huge piles of stones held together by wire netting. All through this district moro or less use is now being made of tho irrigation. Some farmers appear to bo over using it, so that stagnant undrained pools are accumulating on the land, othors are using it just as scientifically as the most experienced American irrigationists, and are apparently getting great benefit from it. Other farmers, including ono or two large holders, appear unentluisiastio regarding it, and are using the channels only for stock watering, still trusting to chance of rain to make their crops grow. It is to be hoped that the signal success of tho more careful farmers, who appreciate what irrigation means, and intend to get the most they can out of it, will bo a stimulus and an example to all tho others to do likewise. In the United States there is now great popular interest in the subject of irrigation, as its demonstrated benefits are enormous, and ex-Presi-dent Roosevelt, who did more for irrigation than any other of our statesmen, is generally admitted in this resnect alono to h.ivft entitled himself to the boundless gratitude of his country, even had this been tbo only achievement of bis di<;+iri2uisliptl career. I am sure tbprr> will be much interest in tho United States in tbo present irrigation projects of New Zealand, coupled with an earnest wish that they may prove as helpful to tbis Dominion aB they have to some of our great Wostern States.

Tho piercing of the Southern Alps by the tunnel, five and one-third miles long, which will permit of a railway the ontfro distance between Christehiireh and Greymouth, will, when finished, rank among the great engineering feats of the world. The heavy grade in this tunnel, 1 foot in every 33 foot upwards from tho West Coast side, makes it difficult to keep the water out of the eastern end, even with much pumping, so that work at this end will uocossarily havo to bo much slower than at tho other end, where the water can be easily drained out. From tho western side of Otira I wont 1J- miles into this tunnel so far as completed, with Mr. Dixon, Government Engineer, and Mr. Gavin, engineer for tho tunnel contractors. Wo were taken in on a train of trucks loaded with cement, drawn by an American electric locomotive fed with current from an overhead wire. During the last quarter of a mile, where there was considerable work going on, and the passage is only partially excavated, it is unduly dangerous to have live .wires in the tunnel, so use is made of an ingenious contrivance of an insulated cable wound up on the locomotive, which is made to connect with tho trolley wire, and gets spun out as the locomotive goes on its eourso, tho current being received through this cablo and applied to the locomotive, so it continues its uphill course through the tunnel without anyone's life being in danger. This interesting locomotive is much used in tunnel work and mining operations in the United States, where Mr Gavin, who was formerly employed on the Western Pacific Railway, had occasion to notice its usefulness, and so introduced it into New Zealand. All tho rock building in tho tunnel is work ed by compressed nir machinery, which is also of American manufacture. Early in the' construction of the tunnel, when a slip occurred imprisoning soino of the men for about 80 hours, this American machinery pumped fresh air and food into the prison chamber, so that when tho men wore finally rescued by help from outside they wore little tho worse for their sensational experience.

Work on tlio tunnel is proceeding nn the same general plan of top headings as in the famous Simplon Tunnel in Switzerland, the top first being cut out. then the bottom, and then all sides trimmed off and finally arched with concrete. The work at the western end now proceeds at the rato of about 12 feet per day. It has been going on for about three years, and may require about fivo moro years to complete. A small water power plant near the western end drives the machinery, but recently it seems that dry weather has reduced the power below necessary requirements, and so interfered with the work. The electrification of this great tunnel will be ;in interesting and necessary development of the future, for without electrification the r.moke of engines puffing up the heavy grade, would make the air somewhat stifliiv. It will indeed bo an important day in the transportation history of New Zealand when both ends meet in this great tunnel, and the East and West Coasts become connected with steel rails. At present the West Coast country, though prolific in minerals and timber, and in agricultural and dairying possibilities, Ims its outside trade handicapped by the difficult and uncertain bars at the lending; ports. Hut when eommuniciitiori is established through the tunnel there ought to be a regular and cheap outlet and inlet for trade through Christchureh and Lyttelton. It is a ii'ost beautiful drive over the mountains from the C'ass, the present terminus of the railway from Christchurcli, to Otira, the terminus of the line from Greymouth on the West Coast. When the mouth of the tunnel on the east side is reached one can look into this big black hole, winch slopes down hill towards the West Coast at the steep grade of 1 foot in ■13 feet, yet the wagon road still goos up hill for some hundreds of feet with lofty tree clad, snow topped mountains all about, until the divide is' reached, when the rushing streams then How west instead of east, and the vast, magnificent, awe-inspiring Otira Gorge is open to the view, and down wo go. a steep zig-zag road till we have- descended some several thousand feet into the bottom of the gorge, and soon see the other end of the long tunnel.

There is quite a contrast between the treeless country east of the mountains and the luxuriant forests on the west. The duo side has not "enough trees, the other side too many, though the sawmilling industry is rapidly disposing of much of the forest growth. ]t would seem that as the timber is cut off the land should bo good dairying countrw as there is plenty of moisture, and tho grass grows very thick and green. A great future seems in store for Westland as the country becomes better opened up to outside enterprise and trade. I was much interested in mining developments there, though on account of stormy weather I had to give up a trip to some of tho most interesting mineral districts. In tho pouring rain, however, I went out from Greymouth to visit the State owned coal mines. The gold dredging operations in the South Island I had on several occasions an opportunity to observe. They are peculiar to New Zoaland, having been introduced from hero to other parts of tho world, including the Philippine Islands, where capital and machinery from Dunedin are now on American soil, helping to add to Xcw Zealand's fame for originality and enterprise.

I went as far South as Half Moon Bay, at Stewart Island, and perhaps felt almost proud of this, my furthest record South, as some of tho Antarctic explorers. It is an interesting trip across the 25 miles of Foveaux Straits to this beautiful island, where Mount Anglem looms up over 3000 feet high, and which is covered with virgin forests, and where the whole country seems wild and rugged. _ The pcoplo hero got all tho first details of returning Antarctic expeditions, so that any of them with journalistic instincts have chances of rotting newspaper "scoops" that may immensely interest the whole world. The chief industries appear to be fishing, timbering, and a little market gardening.

About Invercargill I was much taken with the prosperous aspect of the rich agricultural and stock raising country tributary to it. Also all of the coast, country between Dunedin and Christclmreh compares favourably with the best agricultural districts of the United States and of England. I had a visit to the beautiful Hanmer Springs, north-west of Christcliureh. It is a most charming locality for a holiday when one desires some wholesome exorcise in walking and swimming, with plenty of exhilarating fresh nir to breath and lovely scenery to delight tho vision. I inspected the prison camp for planting millions of trees.

The overland coaching trip of two days from Greymouth to Nelson, through the Bullor Gorge and over the uroat Saddle-back, offers scenery as grand and beautiful as can be found in any part of tho world. Nelson and Pieton are very pretty towns and the water route between them, through tho French Pass, contains what to my mind seems one of the greatest wonders of the world—Pelorus Jack, more interesting even than New Zealand's famous geysers or labour legislation. It is certainly satisfaction for a traveller to bo actually able to verify with his own eves tho world's greatest "fish story,"

As the steamer came near the end of the French Pass, on the Wellington side, the passengers had all crowded to the bow of tho boat, and there was intense eagerness to catch sight of this most romnrkable fish, and much worry lest His Majesty might not oo'mft out to-day to demonstrate how truth' can really he stranger than fiction. Wo waited and waited, hut great Kinc Jnok did not come in sight, but instead a scowling waiter came up from the dining saloon to

warn us that lunch had been on for some time. Most of the passengers, reluctantly concluding that we were after all not to be honoured this time with a visit ifoia tho great fish, and perhaps thinking, some of them, that after all ho must be only a myth, went down to lunch. Personally I was quite ready to go without lunch if there was any chance at all of seeing this greatest personality of natural history, and sol waited. Very soon, to my spellbound wonderment, ho became visible somo distance off, and then with great powerful strokes he made for the bow of tho ship. We were going at some speed, .and one would think it would take some scientific calculation to figure the exact angle and speed at which to strike out to just reach the bow of our ship, but His Majesty, seeming omniscient as a god of ancient mythology, made no mistake, but was soon at our bow, which ho affectionately patted and rubbed with his hip; long tail. His dark bluish body, covered with foam from his splashes, almost seemed of a royal purple and ermine, and it glimmered and scintilated as he played with us in a kindly approving gracious way. Every movement he made was graceful and majestic, and fascinating to look at; it was difficult to realise that for years and years back this noble fish had given his personal greetings to nearly every ship that had passed, day or night. In the case of the illfated Penguin he is said to have crossed and reerossed its bows in such a way as if repeatedly trying to warn it not to go further ahead to the doom which awaited it.

After Pelorus Jack had given us about five minutes of his valuable time, lie suddenly disappeared from view, perhaps having somo other engagement, maybe with his queen, bidden somewhere from the vulgar gazo, or perhaps with some young and pretty lady dolphiness impatiently awaiting him somewhere about the secluded rocks. The passengers who had gone to lunch and just missed seeing His Majesty woro very disappointed indeed. But I hoard a very unappreciative waiter remark: "I wisli Pelorus Jack were dead, lie makes everyone .late to lunch ; tho dishes ought to have been taken up long ago, yet even now that American man is only just getting in to lunch."

I am sure that lovers of natural history the world over will be grateful to the Rev. D. C. Bates, the Government Meteorologist, who secured special parliamentary protection for this wonderful fish, and who has lately been suggesting a much heavier penalty for any malicious person who might do harm to this fish, who is one of the best friends and most distinguished characters that any country has ever possessed. 'Pelorus Jack is certainly an asset of whom Now Zealand may well be proud.