THE WEST COAST BY WAY OF THE AORERE VALLEY.

Colonist, Volume VI, Issue 597, 14 July 1863, Page 7

THE WEST COAST BY WAY OF THE AORERE VALLEY.

We have pleasure in placing the following communication respecting this line of route before our readers :—

To the Editor of the Colonist.

Sib—Having received instructions to proceed and measure the track cut by Messrs. Groom and Hunter, from Salisbury's Creek via the Aorere valley to the mouth of the river Heaphy or Wakapohai, I am induced, at the request of several parties, to hand you a description of the country passed over in my journey. I would premise that, starting at this bad season of the year, I doubtless had not the chance of seeing as much of the surrounding country as I should have done had the weq-ther been less inclement. Nevertheless, same so parties may be induced from various reasons to take this track on their journey to the Buller and Karamea rivers, when the spring is more advanced, I venture to describe the main or leading features of this track.

On leaving Slate river you enter the bush opposite Washbourne's Flat, or Slateford, and for a mile travel over a narrow track cut by Mr. Washbourne for his bullocks, and enter on a succession of rolling spurs, covered with manuka and fern; traversing this for another mile you reach the Aorere main trunk line near the house erected on Section 42 by Mr. F. Taylor; this house is used as an accommodation house by travellers, though deserted by its owner for the present, and should bad weather come jn, or nightfall overtake the traveller, he has the benefit of shelter.

Leaving this place, you enter on the main bush, passing along the road cut by the Government. All the main streams are bridged, and though the road is much overgrown with underbush or second growth, a safe though muddy road is available; the expense of a few pounds would make the road a good one again. In one place, through the bursting of the large lagoon under the main mountain range (Whakamarima) the track cut has been much washed away, rendering it very difficult for a bullock to travel over. A bridge could be easily placed over the hole now existing. The bridges also require some little repairs. Having surmounted these small annoyances, you reach the Aorere, opposite the junction of Salisbury Creek, where the new track commences, through a light bush of birch, rimu, and the usual evergreen underbrush for about 30 chains. At this point you enter on a large manuka flat, the trees tall and well grown, ground rather soft and swampy, and running under a detached or broken spur from the main range. This bush! continues for about 140 chains; there are several creeks, some small and insignificant, others of a larger size; these larger creeks I named the Groom, the Hunter, and the Peel creeks, in order that at some future time they would enable the district to be defined to travellers. At 42 chains from the last mentioned creek, you again cross another, Burnt Creek, lying between two spurs of burnt manuka. At the foot of the last spur you enter on a large rushy plain, 30 chains in width; the track is distinctly marked out by guide posts, with flags and crossbars attached. Here another creek crosses the track, and you enter a small manuka patch, about four chains wide, and enter the m&in bush. This bush has all the appearance of being of first-rate character, the land rich and fertile, having a gently undulating surface, well drained by numerous .creeks, the trees all of large size, and noble looking magnificent rata, rimu, and pine, the fern trees of great size, spreading out their featherlike leaves on every side; the foliage of a luxuriant rich green.

The track through this bush is generally on the level, and could be made with very small expense available for pack bullocks or a _dray, very few side cuttings being required, and only two bridges. All the other streams could be approached by fordways or cuttings to the streams. This bush is seven miles long to the mouth of the river Brown, the track traverses for five chains up the river, and there crosses at an easy and safe fordway; banks on each side are low. Another half mile of same description of bush brings you to the Brown Creek, at the foot of the long open leading to the

brown patch or saddle at head of the valley, running directly across the country and joining up to the Whakamarima range. This spur is a gradual ascent for three miles, and has been used by pack bullocks nearly to the summit, and is covered with rata, birch, and pine, and as it approaches the head becomes more or less of a scrubby character. On reaching the summit the track bears off to the eastward, and over a brown patch of snow grass, &c. The view from this point is very fine; at your feet you perceive the proud Aorere winding its angry course through the valley, receiving additional supplies from the numerous riversi on each side; every now and then a large island clothed with, luxuriant foliage meets the eye; the valley of the Brown winding away to the north-west, the Aorere tending to the southward backed by high mountains—such as Olympus, Mount Domett, &c, the Grampian Hills showing their rugged and serrated peaks tipped with snow, several large rivers issuing from the various gorges, rushing on to join their waters with the Aorere, altogether form a scene seldom to be met with, and I think seldom excelled. Having crossed the Brown Patch you at once enter on a long level range, running at right angles to the bare peak of the Whakapohai Mountain, and thickly covered with densely matted pine scrub; following which, to the bare peak, you descend by an easy spur to the low saddle dividing the Watershed of the Aorere Valley j and that of the Gouland Down district. On each side of this saddle issues a small stream, one leading to the Aorere at the foot of Mount Snowden, the other flowing through a low valley correctly named Fog Valley, joins the various streams flowing from the Gouland Downs, and finally empties itself to on the West Coast, through a gorge at the base of the Whakamarima range, this stream, in consequence of catching a kakapo, or ground parrot, on its banks, I have named the Kakapo. At the western end of Fog Valley you enter on the Gouland Downs, the much talked of grassy plain, 'the splendid sheep run.' Alas, what disappointment is in store for the expectant traveller, who viewing these downs from the Whakapohai range, naturally expects to see a fine rolling prairie with luxuriant grass, &c. On his arrival, he meets with scrubby pine, dwarf manuka, black moss, and barren patches of broken stone; occasionally you see a small patch of scrub bush, the whole ground saturated with water, not a blade of green grass, a miserable apology for stunted flax, yellow cadaverous looking rush, and a bitter raw cold wind continually blowing, enough to chill a man to the bone, requiring fully an extra coat to keep him warm. Seated on a stone and casting his eye over this vast extent of open ground, he is astonished at the great number of creeks and gorges, and sees the most desolate unfruitful country he can imagine, not a living bird or animal to be seem, nothing but snow grass, snow plant, and spear grass, in fact all around him one vast dreary waste; snow lays here occasionally but not for long. As you proceed across the Downs towards the Heaphj river, you gradually perceive an improvement, and towards the end a better class of vegetation is perceptible. The original track blazed by Messrs. Knyyett carries the traveller on to the saddle on the western side of the Whahapohai mountain, and over two false saddles with deep gorges intervening. The track formed by Hunter and Co. strikes over and along a descending spur, and crosses but two small gorges (the one I have named Duck Creek, the other Stoney Creek), and there joins Mr. Mackay's old track, and thence passes up a gradual ascending spur, until you reach the heavy scrub descending to the first crossing of the river Heaphy, and passes through a long valley interspersed with large detached masses of granite, and over the Burnt Knob, and cross a large creek named the Dog Creek. Mr. Hunter here lost his favorite dog, and interred him by the road side near this creek, and raised a small cairn of stones over the remains. The total distance over the downs is four miles and fifty-eight chains. In some of the creeks on the downs there is every appearance of gold; the whole district is composed of granite, a quantity of sandstone, and a rock much resembling chrome, but much closer grained and extremely hard. On, leaving the downs, standing at the flagstaff, you can distinctly see the flag at the entrance. Should a heavy mist envelope the downs, and the flagstaff's be invisible, a man is guided by large branches carried from the bush and laid down all the way, thus entirely preventing any chance of mistaking the track.

We camped on the head of the spur, amidst stunted pine bush, birch, nga nga, <fee. From this point you gradually begin to descend into the Heaphy Valley, through thick pine scrub, until you again meet the main bush. The timber on this Bpur is not heavy, principally light birch, with pine, rata, and rimu. On reaching the fording of the river, there is good and safe walking, depth of water about knee deep. There are numerous shingle bars, composed altogether of granite of various colors. The river here is three chains wide, water light colored and flowing gently. On reaching the western side of the river, you at once commence ascending a long spur, named by Mr. Mackay, Puako's Range, it being a dividing spur between the upper and lower forks of the Heaphy. Between these forks the river is very gorgy, almost impassable, water laying in deep holes, sides very precipitous. The ascent up the spur from the river is 100 chains long; the track thence is generally level for 170 chains. Mr. Mackay tried to follow some of the spurs leading direct to the lower forks, which would have materially shortened the distance, but was prevented doing so by precipitous limestone cliffs. The track now gradually descends for 113 chains, and again meets the Heaphy. While encamped at the foot of this spur, we were visited by a kakapo. We endeavored to glare it with candles; but rain falling, we gave up the pursuit, and returned to the camp. We heard the kewi kewi on all sides of us.

Passing under some overhanging cliffs at the foot of the last mentioned spur for 33 chains, you reach the second crossing of the river, and in a short distance cross and recross again, and enter on a long flat on the edge of the river, passing under some overhanging limestone rocks, all fossiliferpus, and again cross the river. On the right hand Bide or north-west side of the river, the Greenfield river enters and joins the Heaphy,

after passing through a large timbered plain of many fno&sand acres in extent, richly clad in foliage,' fertile soil, and bearing every appearance. of being a valuable district. There are near this valley numerous others of some1 100' to 200 acres extent, all apparently of the same fertile character. As this district is only about five miles from the mouth of the Heaphy, at Borne future day, when a settlement is formed at the Heaphy harbor, it must be of great value eventually. Along the sides of the river you perceive numerous limestohe bluffs peering out amidst the deep green foliage, ana coming down to the rivers edge;again crossing the river you arrive at the lower forks, and here a most magnificent scene presents itself, perhaps one of the prettiest river scenes a traveller can imagine, foreground and the background standing with the proud flowing river, backed by immense mountains and descending spurs, clothed in rich green, interspersed with white cliffs of limestone all joining in one general harmony, and affording ample funds for deep reflection on the power dis. played by the great Omniscient and Omnipotent.

At about 120 chains lower down you again cross the river for the last time over a proud expansive sheet of limpid, water, interspersed with beautiful islands, clothed in holiday costume, and vying with each other to show the beautiful foliage, and intense richness of their color, the surrounding hills clad to their summit, a high mountain range fotf background, white cliffs again on every side, presenting a most enchanting view, and one that the true lover of nature would turn to again and again, ere he could tear himself away. You now enter a fuschia bush for a few chains and enter upon.a nikau grove, the whole ground studded with them in all various stages of growth; some of them sixteen to eighteen inches in diameter, and eighty to one hundred feet high. This nikau: grove continues until you reach the head of the harbor, when you suddenly debouch on a splended view of the harbor,and Southern Pacific. A strong north-west wiiid blowing, brought in a heavy surf, which foamed and dashed on the sandy beach on the south side of the harbor, and lashed its angry waves on the rocky bluffs on the north. Both sides of this harbor are thickly studded with evergreen bushes, amidst which towers the stately nikau, pushing far above all others its crested and graceful featherlike head. On the south side of the harbor a track has been cut above high water mark to enable passengers at all times to push on their journey and not be delayed by waiting for low water. On the north side of the harbor, should it be required, the rocky bluff at its summit presents an admirable site for a lighthouse. Hai Hai Bluff is visible from the mouth, presenting a yellow looking headland, sloping back from the ocean at an angle of about 45 degrees. The harbor is apparently deep and safe when inside, though there is a dangerous bar outside and heavy surf beating upon it. All along the banks of the Heaphy you meet pigeons, wild ducks of two or three kinds, woodhens, New Zealand canaries with yellow head and breast and green wings and backs, thrushes, saddlebacks, crows, and the numerous tribes of fly catchers. On one or two of the bars I noticed the footprints of a cat. The birds are all extremely tame. We heard the kewi kiwi and kakapo every night, though unable to capture any, having no dog.

We found no traces of wild pigs after leaving the Aorere bush on the north side of theWhakapohai mountain; the whole district passed through is of granite formation, of various colors, some beautiful red, green, black, grey, &c. ; the rocks of limestone are all fossiliferous, especially those at the mouth of the harbor. I found pieces of coal washed down the creeks at the second crossing of the Heaphy, but too far inland to be available until tne country is more developed; it is well, however, to know that the coal measures here show themselves about seven miles from the sea. I should mention that dreary and desolate as the Gouland downs may be at the first look, it is very possible their extreme barrenness, arises from the valuable mineral deposits therein contained. That it is auriferous in some parts there is no doubt, Mr. W. Hunter, having traversed the greater portion of the creeks and gorges, is of opinion that there is a good field about a mile below the fordway of the Dog Creek. There is also another curious fact—the almost total absence of shells on the sea coast. The total distance of the track cut by Groom and Hunter is forty miles and seventy-six chains, thus:— From Salisbury's Creek to Brown Biver 7 23 Brown Eiver to foot of Long Spur ... 0 47 Foot of Long Spur to summit of Saddle 3 10 Across the Brown Patch ... ... ... 1 0 Entrance of Scrub Bush to summit of Whakapohai Eange ... ... ...... 1 50 From summit to Gouland Downs 2 30 Across the Gouland Downs ... ... ... 4 68 From Gouland Downs to first crossing ofHeaphy ... ... 7 73 Spur between upper and lower forks ... 6 23 From foot ef spur to the mouth of the Biver Heaphy ... ... 7 2 40 76 I may state the track is a firstrate one, and does infinite credit to those who first projected this route, as well as those who have successfully carried it out. Should the Government at any time wish to make this track available for pack bullocks it can be done by making a few side cuttings, the whole length of which will not exceed four miles. I have endeavored, in as concise a manner as possible, to give all the particulars I could, and trust you may be able to find room for the information conveyed in the account thus forwarded.'. _.. I am, &c, Wdtfield HiGonr.