TEA JACKETS AND THE BLOUSE.

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 287, 8 January 1915, Page 4

TEA JACKETS AND THE BLOUSE.

Now that everyone is engaged on war work of one kind or another (writes a. lady in the M Daily Mail"), indoor gowns and blouses are of paramount importance. I have not been in England lately, but I know that over here, in France, indoor gowns are at the moment of much greater importance than those intended for outdoor wear. Frenchwomen, especially our fastidious Parisiennes, like to look fresh and dainty while presiding over sewing parties and Red Cross teas. The rest coatees and tea jackets of the present season are quite lovely from every point of view; and the same may be said of the new blouse models. Printed taffetas is a favourite material for tea jackets, and some of the designs nnd colour schemes are as poetic as they are effective. For example, I recall a quaint little coatee expressed in zinc-white taffetas printed with delicate wreaths of flowers in a clear Wedgwood blue. The little garment had an 1880 air. It moulded the figure,, and was fastened down the front with blue ball buttons. The coatee was sleeveless, and underneath there was a blouse, finished with bishop sleeves, in the new material called erepe Francais. This is a very supple stuff, and particularly suitable for the collars and cuffs of silk or satin blouses.The model I have just mentioned had a very large sailor collar which fell over the taffetas coatee, and there was a loose sash in Wedgwood blue isilk, which had rounded ends richly embroidered with tiny blue and white porcelain beads. This tea jacket might be worn over several different skirts. One might be made of white pleated «min 7 s veiling, for example, or there might be a gathered skirt in Wedgwood blue ehariueuse crepe de chine, voile, ninon, or taffetas. The costume I have just suggested would be v <|uite dressy enough for a dinner at the house of ( intimate friends. I. have seen similar models composed of printed taffetas or satin, with a dark background and conventional designs in white. These silks gave foulard effects, and thej- were practical and useful as well as daintv. "

The Russian Mouse outline has captured the imagination of the Parisiennes. One finds it expressed in velvet and fur for outdoor wear, and in velveteen, satin, taffetas, and crepe de chine for home .costumes* There are few garments more useful than the genuine Russian blouse, which has a moderately long basque and is made of very supple materials. A clever girl can make a blouse of this order look like a veritable creation by the cunning manner in which it is adjusted and by the addition of a beautiful hand-made belt enriched with intricate bead and silk embroideries. ■

If I were asked to-describe the spirit of the present hour I should employ the words, '' throAV on.'' It is essentially a "throw-on" season. All the new tea jackets, blouses, and outdoor garments are so loose and careless in outline that they can be thrown on without the least difficulty. We have not time for intricate fashions. What we need, and demand, is something that can be easily worn and which will look original and picturesque. The Russian blouse, in each of its many .impersonations, meets these requirements. It is an ideal garment. The model beloved of the Parisieniies is a faithful copy of the genuine moijily blouse —a loose, apparently shapeless, garment, which, if made of supple materials, can be adapted to any figure

and made to fall into many different folds. For outdoor wear these inoujik 1 douses are made very long and expressed in velvet, Indian cashmere, soft sorgo, heavy'satin, etc. For indoor wear they are shorter and composed of Liberty satin, supple taffetas, a heavy make of crepe de chine, arid many other st.iffs. The great point i.v" that the blouse must be extremely supple in material and generous in ■outiiuo. The folds n.vst be full enough to give a thoroughly careless effect. And such a Mov.y; coat —whether for uvloor o r outdoor wear — should be worn*over r. rather sliort and skimpy skirt. Too. oi-line thug pioduced is peculiar, but i!; is eminently chic. * A'rare, lovely blouse, recently created by a Paris dressmaker of world wide fame, was composed of wistaria-mauve bloom silk, with a • large collar and curved cuffs in black "hanneuse. This was an original and thoroughly satisfactory garment. The ; «oft silk fronts we:<! arranged in a mo*uifi»\l cross-over style, though the blouse pouched at the sides, and there were ion-?, ends which formed a sash and whic.i were tied at the back* There was a very long shoulder seam, and the full sleeves were set in rather far down on the upper arm. Then there was the effective collar, slightly'-stif-fened, in black eharmeuse, and large curved cuffs in the same material; the latter being attached to the blouse sleeve by lengths of black satin libhoii which were tied in loose bows. This blouse could make an ideal dress, if worn with a pleated skirt of wistariamauve cashmere. I must not neglect to mention that' many of the newest blouses have high', necks. That is to say, they are i.uttoned right up to the throat in the old-fashioned manner. The decollete blouse is certainly going out of fashion.. At the present moment the most popular' models are those which open in a modest V; but it seems likely that in the near future we shall have returned to the high-necked blouse which was popular about 20 years ago. „