TIMELY HINTS FOR THE WELL DRESSED WOMAN

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 276, 26 December 1914, Page 6

TIMELY HINTS FOR THE WELL DRESSED WOMAN

Trig Matj **p SmaktThjousis GomphtblW ~ AnTnM^TAnjCSREDSIIITSTYKBS

Brown duvetyn suit with brown ■ and geld passementeries and tassels. White silk organdie embroidered blouse. Brown velvet hat with white satin top and wings. -Prom Franklin Simon 4 Co.

i Brown covert cloth suit, black velvet collar White satin blouse with crganc toflar, vest ami cuffs. Black velvet h k trimmed with moire ribbon.

■Fwrossy JOEL TEDER.

F Brown pothoTre Suit; with brown satin sleeves and beltSkunk fur collar and cuff band. Blouse of •corded sfflt and lace* Black .velvet hat with* 1 burned feather orna-'l ment I Fronj B Altaian. & Co,, 1

Black satin suit with collar, cape, belt and tirop skin of meritex, a fur-like fabric. Blouse ot crepe meteor, striped velvet sleeves, white organdie collar .. and cuffs. Velvet picture hat with long, feather.

/ jßrown broadcloth siiil collar /ana cuffs of pomoire. Black vel* f vet overtKHintf ftat with crosses. \ White taffeta basque and qirdle, \cWffon sleeves and sides.

Suit of blue serfle bourn with black braid. Ambe buckle at belt. Small blacl velvet hat with quill am ooque pfunfes. White satii waist. •—Jfwgs..Btts & Co,

Blue wool bengaftte. oiac* velvet collar and cuffs. Black velvet overoound hat witlt military rosette Biue and yellow striped taffeta waist, blue chiffonsleeves. Frim. HmiMlt IVIIi-i .1 i o

l'"rujii Huuiflt IWiri a < o

myvossy JOEL TEDER.

[ANY women have learned in the hard school of experience that the choice of a tailored suit, though I important, is but one de-

tail in a successful autumn outfit. No mat-

ter how becoming and stylish it may be, if not accompanied by just the right sort of waist, hat and other little accessories that, go to make up the correct ensemble the result is terribly unsatisfactory. * If you: will watch the really smartly gowned woman in Fifth avenue in the morning or afternoon hours you will note that the ensemble of her toilet is principally pleasing because of the correctness of To get this smartness of appearance' the hat must seem to belong to that particular suit and the

blouse to be an attractive complement when the coat is unfastened. Shoes and; stockings, too, have suddenly gained an enormous significance in the toilet since dancing and the shortness of dresses have called them into prominence. Detail at random any woman whose silhouette attracts your attention and you will find that there is a sort of style relation between all the parts of her clothing.

The only way to carry out a successful plan of buying a season's outfit is to get the tailored suit first, then match up the accessories to it. This last has to be done by intuition, but most women are well supplied if they will only make use of it. I believe that even matching of samples will not do in this age of exquisitely gowned women. If one really wishes to emulate them even in a modest way the tailored suit should be'bought.and donned

first. Then the hat and blouse can be selected, as well as the shoes and stockings. For to-day it is not only colors that are matched or harmonized but there is also a harmony among hat, suits and shoes that must be taken into ccnsideration—a harmony of shape as well as of color.

The difficulty with most women is that they buy a blouse because it is pretty or becoming, forgetting that in the final ensemble it has to be worn and look well with the suit, hat, shoes and stockings as well as that it may be suited to themselves.

The up to date autumn tailored suit in New York has a redingote coat. Sometimes the lower part of the coat attaches to the body part by a frock coat seam. In other models the coat is cut on redingote lines b,ut in one piece.

One thing that both styles have in com-

BLOUSES, DRESSY AND NEGLIGEE, CHIC FOR THE EARLY AUTUMN- DAYS

There are some very pretty novelties in separate blouses to be seen in the shops. One is the striped blouse. It is generally made as a regular long sleeved blouse, the stripes running up and down. The collar, narrow vest front and girdle belt are of a plain silk or satin of one of'the colors to be found in the stripes. The striped material is either silk, satin or chiffon voile. When the coat of the tailored suit is adjusted only the plain vest shows, and it may be of the suit's color or not. ' ' . Another and more dressy type of waist is of black Chantilly lace "over white or a color. One model has a founds- tion where the upper half is of flesh colored chiffon while the lower half is of wtoite satin. The foundation has no sleeves. Over this is placed a raglah sleeved full blouse of black Chantilly lace. There is a white satin girdle, with a long narrow jet ornament on the lower edge of the centre front. Another Chantilly lace blouse is mounted oh a corn colored crepe de Chine foundation. The Chantilly forms a sort of short bolero that hangs rather jfull and loosely. The sleeves are long .with a double ruffle at the wrist. The transparent lace sleeves are a feature of the daytime gowns as well ae of the blouses. They are often unlined, .which gives a very odd appearance when ;worn out of doors without any wrap. otherwise there is - less transparency in the corsage, for the decollete is often confined to an oblong cut out at the rieclr. In some blouses the neck is high and round, encircling the base of the neck, and the collar is made by a couple of upstanding frills, pleated or fluted lace or tulle, or perhaps a little turnover standing collar that is only the width of the back.

Some ordinary morning blouses are a combination of taffeta and piquG, the taffeta making the body of the blouse, the pique 1 the collar and the cuffs. Lingerie blouses have made their reappearance in striped, effects, a stripe of wide Valenciennes lace alternated by a stripe of tucked batiste making a very lacy affair.

Both the blouses ending in vest points and those with the wide girdles are finished, to be worn over the tailored skirt, for this gives the correct long waisted look that is the present fashion.

Autumn Hats. Flower hats this year have vinelike wreaths, not of ah even thickness, but just as a vine grows naturally.' The bat crown is sometimes covered with foliage and large flowers, a very appropriate and becoming fashion for a matron. This particular hat has a flatly covered crown of white satin leaves and muslin roses.

Among the first autumn models there is a long boat-shaped turban that seems to be made for the new close hairdressing, as it comes down half way on the forehead, capping the top of the head and giving It a very new and special silhouette that is the acme of all that is new in millinery. It makes one think of some of the hats pictured in the fashion plates of the seventies. Though these shapes were much smaller and looked more like dolls' hats perched atop of a coiffure, they are not so very different from those promised for autumn and already worn by the ultra-fashion-able women. Coque's plumage in encircling bands and dark iridescent colorings- sometimes encircles the smaller hat shapes.

men is that they are full enough to fall iLto ripples from the waist down. This makes the coat rather wide —sometimes five or six yards about the hem. In length coats range from thirty-six to forty-two inches. The set-in sleeve is one of the new features of the tailored suit coat and long sleeves are almost invariably the rule, except in a few of the dressy afternoon costumes. While some of the suits show a return to collar and revers there are more that have a little round collar that closes up i rather closely about the neck.

Skirts show more fulness *, some are cut on the old circular shape, but because of the ampleness of the coat hems they do not show their extra width too much. Yokes are open, an attractive detail of the new skirts, and tunics are very long. The basque is the newest shape for

the separate waists. They can be worn very nicely over the skirts because the coats are ao long. One of the novel details frequently seen in this blouse is a sleeve of transparent material—Chantilly lace or chiffon, matching the blouse or the skirt in color. These basques are made of satin, taffeta or velvet. When they are of the same color as the skirt they often give the effect of basque dress. .

The vest blouse is also in style for the tailored suit. The vest is applied to the blouse: in various ways. Sometimes it is added as a sort of corselet, with the upper part of a different material Mousing, into it. A very attractive fashion is when the collar, front arid vest shaped belt "is of satin or taffeta and the rest of the blouse is of lace. An outlining corded piping of the silk separates one material from the other.

Silk organdies, daintily embroidered, masquerade as simple blouses., Washable organdie is combined with washable satins and silks into dainty waists that can. be easily laundered and kept fresh. The thin sleeve is seen in other models, besides the basque, for the arm, showing through an unlined transparent sleeve of lace or chiffon, is one of the style marks of autumn fashions. In the elaborate afternoon tailored suits the new fur cloth fabrics that imitate caracul and other furs so well are made up into charmingly elaborate models. Sometimes, instead of a coat on strictly redingote lines, a; short bolero coat hangs over the long full skirt tunic in such a way as 'to give the appearance of a long loose redingote. These suits call for black Chantilly or white and ecru embroidered lace waists. Small and rather high velvet hats seem.

DO GIRLS FOOL THEMSELVES?

By Nancy Woods Walburn.

. "Of.all the perfect ways to live, I certainly think this Studio Club has them all beat," said Jane, as she glanced admiringly around for a last look at the large entrance hall as she let Gladys and Emma pass out and let the front door bang behind her as she'joined them after a recent visit to an out of town student, who was stopping there, have a career with a capital C and come and go here as you like, and have the use of that dandy roof garden and everything—why, it would be just like a man's club! Oh, dear; it must be really living!" she ended, with a deep drawn sigh. "Not so fast, Jane," laughed Emma. "Change your gear while I punch the tire of that new mental joy ride of yours. In the first place, if you are through studying and 'on your own' you aren't supposed to live here. It's for students." "Oh, well ! I'd have a fascinating bachelor flat of my own—still better," flung back Jane, airily, undaunted by Emma's literal statement. "It would be more Bohemianlike, anyway; and I could have chafing dish suppers and" "And soon get good and tired of it," put in Gladys. "Remember the girl who said the most she saw in Bohemianism was washing dishes in the bathtub." Jane laughed despite herself. "Oh, yes! I know Ethel Payson. You know, Emma," she continued, as they walked slowly down Sixty-second street toward the avenue, in the bright May sunshine, "she said she. fretted herself to pieces,

aching to get away from home until she came here to visit her artist cousin. Said that cured her and that she never appreciated anything as much in all her life when she got home as her mother's big kitchen sink."

"But," went on Jane, with a scornful sniff, "she was only on a visit. With her cousin it would be different and the same way with me. Fancy anybody exchanging a real career for fifty kitchen sinks!"

"You might follow a career, but never catch up with it," giggled the irrepressible Gladys, who ducked to dodge Jane's strong arm protest.

"The thing that gets me most of all," remarked Emma thoughtfully, as they crossed over to the.Park, "is how some girls like to fool themselves. If it isn't tibout marriage it's a career. Why such a lot of them think after 'they are married or out on their own hook they're suddenly going to be terribly changed in their tastes and everything, is more than I can see. If you don't like dishwashing now, Jane, and you know very well that you don't, why on earth do you think in.a minute you would like it any better if you had a flat? We are only ourselves wherever we are."

"That's easy!" cried Jane, not easily downed. "I'd have no end of things, plans, my work and experiences—thrilling ones—to think over and plan and develop me as-er-er," she then added quickly, "as my hands mechanically did the menial tasks. And you know," she went on with growing enthusiasm for her own argument, "you know what women's magazines say about the value of that!"

"Yes, and you sound about as logical as one," grumbled- Gladys, cross because she had just seen a fac-simile of her own suit go by them as they chose a bencl

neur the park entrance and sat down. "Humph! Your thrilling experiences develop you! I heard something at your beloved Studio Club that hits that in the eye. The speaker that day was the tiniest, frail little woman from the Prison Association, or something, up in Connecticut, but she made even me sit up and take notice." "She sure must have been a wonder, then," put in Jane.

''She referred," went on Gladys quickly, ignoring Jane's sarcasm, "to all. this talk among art students and girls generally about the value of thrilling 'experiences'—getting into temptation and being more or less Bohemian in everything—developing character. 'Ah, but it mars it!' she said, and pointed out that surely it developed and strengthened one's character much more to forego and combat temptation than to yield and get the socalled value of the 'experience.' " Jane looked serious. "I guess she's about right. After all it's a pretty big job in itself to keep out of trouble these days. Somewhere in one of her books," she went on as if to justify herself, "George Eliot refers to embroidering, something she or nobody else wanted as the solace of many an unhappy woman. Well, nowadays," she added, "no woman unhappy or dissatisfied takes it out in sewing—perish the thought!—but in talk, talk. Suffrage talk, anti talk, club talk, newspaper talk or just private, prolonged wails. At least so it seems to me; and I guess I've got the fever. Maybe my cash value to the world wouldn't pay my room rent," she ended with a grimace. "But our cash value isn't everything and I haven't lost hopes of getting somebody to take me by some other." Suddenly she jumped-up, "There's our bus," she exclaimed, "Hurry, and let's jefra top seat!" and away she bolted.

to have been designed especially for the new tailored suit. !~ "\While some of the forms look remarkably like the Scotch service cap, there are •also bicornes, tricornes and four or five--* sided hats, so that it is possible to choose > the one most becoming to each type of face*. Standing ornaments of feathers, birds' plumes or ribbon add 'to their heights. ) Metallic ribbons and flowers are a season's millinery fancy. The very large hats, also of velvet, are , often decoratively covered on the lower brim with feathers or on the upper brim with flat encircling wreaths of aigrettes, monkey fur or spaced flat ornaments made of birds' plumes or the brim edge is covered with an ostrich feather band. Tlie trimming on these very large hats is seldom high. They are on the picturesque order, shaped sO as to make a background and frame for the face.

VERY SHORT DRESSES OF PROMENADERS CAUSE CONSERVATIVE WOMEN TO STARE

Short di-esses are still ultra smart in New York. Many promenaders on Fifth avenue affect them. The afternoon dress of black taffeta, With its black net tunic and black net unlined sleeves, is the costume that now makes the more conservative women stare.

The shortness of the skirts makes the pale golden yellow stocking and shoe tops stand out in startling contrast; yet every well dressed woman seems to be wearing them; it is one of those fads that sweep the avenue for a time. The bare arms showing through the lacy sleeves seem odd in a daytime drese even though we are accustomed by this time to daytime d6collete; with the sunburned arms showing through (hey are at tunes more, painful than pretty to look upon.

or a little mantle of silk that seldom goes beyond the hips is worn hanging off or held pn by a crook of the arms thrust through- an opening.

Flat coiffures with the tight little velvet bate and their overbound edges are cocked jauntily to one side on the head; every other woman has one. The larger shapes are less seen as yet, yet in ten days from now Fifth avenue may be coiffed with these stunning large shapes, simply trimmed and with a feather edge or a halo of monkey fur. The, vanity tango boxes are carried by the younger women; for those who do not tango or find . the square bos too little and frivolous the gold mesh purse is chosen- One sees more leather arm bags in the morning on the avenue now than moire, but the shapes remain much the same. The elegance shows in the clasps, which often represent little birds or animals or are heavy unout shaped stones set in gold or silver. Few wraps, are seen with afternoon dresses. An occasional velvet cape is thrown back or held on by the straps,

Some very pretty Combinations: of white eyelet embroidery and dark figured voile dresses have been seen. , The English embroidery is in wide skirt flounces and the basque top and underskirt are of the dark figured voile. This, was noticed at one of the smart Broadway restaurants where many of the well known actresses lunch. Here one sees many of the serge and broadcloth dresses that have long loose tops that are belted below the hips and have a v ower attached tunic that is higher in front and slopes down at the back. Often there is no visible opening; the sleeves and the underskirt are sometimes of satin or velvet, making a seeming underdress.

The Children, The babies show in their attire the coquetry of their mothers, and the little ones are quick to develop a sort of coquetry of their own;; so we need show no astonishment over the beauty of the "costumes of small, and big. At the commencement of the season the little girls' hats were quite small and showed the general tendency of the modes. Now they are larger, and we see a great many "eapelines" of Italian straw, trimmed simply with a garland of flowers or feathers. There is much white or flowered crepon used for children's dresses, and it possesses the practical advantage of cleaning beautifully. For the last few seasons white pique* has dot been nrocli used, but it is again popular, and some pretty frocks are made of it, combined with colored linen, or striped batiste, with pearl or crystal buttons.