Latest Fashions From Part Show Fitted Tendency

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 229, 31 October 1914, Page 6

Latest Fashions From Part Show Fitted Tendency

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One of the Fitted Styles That Had; Just Been Launched in Paris. Gtown <>f Black Taffeta With Bo*. lero Top and Girdle* .Old Gold Lace in Neck and Sleeves. Jetted.Tuilfr tunic and Drop Buttons.

AMERICA has accepted the new fashion of full skirts with avidity. The new tight fitting corsages have not been taken up so quickly. This can be accounted for. Fitted waists are h greater novelty Uiun lue spreading skirts, which

are the natural outcome of the long tunic. J The tunic starting from the minaret idea | has lengthened and broadened till it has ! completely extinguished the drop skirt. The so-/ ailed "moyenage basque," hip length una loosely tilted, is now iugb

style in New York. But tlie last models that came over from Paris showed a very increased tendency toward shaped and fitted corsages, though the latter are not necessarily plain or tightly drawn over the lining. Fitted dresses and blouses have al--ready reached New York. All through the early summer returning Americans were seen about New York, at tango teas, roof garden restaurants, the theatres and at the summer resorts adjacent to New York, wearing dresses that frankly showed the graceful curves of the upper part of the body. These women must, of course, have been influenced in their purchases by what they saw at the early summer Paris races and season. What Paris actually had ready to show the American buyers at the August openings is not yet known, though a few importers say they were able to obtain advance information. \ As soon ! J as the ocean is again free to commerce, however, it may be that representatives i j will be sent over with these models,

and they will have a showing heife. For whether the ■ dressmaking houses of Paris are closed or not, the fact remains that all the new models must have been ready to show. Seasons in fashion have become so mixed and fashion news has been brought over so much more quickly to New York in the last year that new fashions have been created and launched at any moment. This is what troubles the manufacturers of the ready to wear clothes, who used to be able to divide the year into two seasons. A possible lack of modish fabrics from which our clothes are fashioned Is facing us as much as a lack of new style lines. One good thing that can come out of this is that women will not all be dressed alike, which is very much what has been happening. As for the fabrics, with cottons for winter . and velvet and fur for summer, women have 1 become accustomed to disregard' materials and their fitness; fashion, and not the thermometer, has regulated this in the last two years,

Two photographs of recent models that arrived by the last steamship over are pictured on this page. One, a black jet dress, is aft that is fitted. Tubular jet beads, sewn in c-lose parallel rows, make a wide girdle belt, ovcrskirt, skirt

band, revers and corsage decoration. The rest of the dress is of round beads, sewn, like the tubular pnes, on the black tulle foundation. A dark red velvet rose is placed in the corsage V. With this dress i Is worn one of the new large picture

bats of black velvet with ostrich feather •edge trimming. These hats are de. signed to be worn with afternoon dresses labile the little ones are for the tailored suits. ... The other black taffeta ■ fitted model bas a waist that is composed a tyrtero • top and. a swathed, sash that 'makes -the' girdle. The over-tunic is of tulle, jetted in a lacy design. The dress buttons from top to skirt hem with round buttons made of tiny jet beads hanging from a jet bead loop. An odd touch to this gown is the old gold lace used in the neck and sleeves. A hat of velvet and aigrettes is worn with this costume. In a very original dress shown here, seen at the Grand Prix, the short and father fitted basque was the odd feature. The costume was of black taffeta with three white lace flounces on the skirt Alternated with three narrow taffeta frills- The basque finishes with a frill vt the silk. . Merchants do not have to worry for the moment for new autumn styles that may come more for the Palm Beach and later winter season* Our general styles for early autumn are always the summer styles of Paris and Deauville. It-is only in October that one commences to see the popularization of the August imports. Creating really new and different styles is not an easy thing. The designers propose and" the customers sometimes disregard them entirely. They drag along several; easons till perhaps another dressmaking house takes up the same idea and, by the final touch that is needed to catch the feminine, finally launches the style successfully. Meanwhile the house that/has created the style originally has often only the pleasure of being known as the introducer of the style and the publicity it may bring, while the other house that borrowed tin idea reaps in&ctically all the benefit from the sale of the models. So it will probably be with the fitted waist Mile. Forzane, the Parisian beauty, wore tailored fitted styles a year ago, yet so far the fitted waists and coats have been seen in America on only those society women or actresses wlio are most advanced in dress. The neck is cut in the new oblong yoke shape and filled in with lace and velvet ruffles. Velvet topped dresses like the one here that was worn at the spring races are already seen in New York. This model had a purple chiffon velvet waist, a purple satin girdle and white tulle ruffles mounted on a white taffeta skirt. Those seen in New York so far are blaek taffeta with black tulle raffles and black velvet tops. Some of these tops are made separate and are sleeveless. They are cut in semi-fitted fashion and button up the front or back. The large drawing shows how exaggerated the new silhouette ha? become. If the small hat tops off the fostuma th<> general contour is strikingly conical. The wonderful damask brocades and the tulles and voiles having? 'glittering ijet, silver or gold designs are used to make such tunics. The underskirt, if there i$ one, is often of velvet..