TIMELY HINTS FOR THE WELL DRESSED WOMEN

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 223, 24 October 1914, Page 6

TIMELY HINTS FOR THE WELL DRESSED WOMEN

tbfo expensive models. Capes are rather out of style for morning wear, but are more than, ever in fashion for afternoon wraps. They are beautifully- decorative affairs;-.made; of velvet, brocades,, laces and silk, and their linings are i»ot less elegant. Sometimes they are combined with the bolero, or vest frOiit, to make a garment that is more wraplike in appearance than a cape. Velvet is perhaps the safest choice for

any woman who must wear the same afternoon wrap over several dresses. Chantilly wraps posed over silk are the height of elegance, and equally good for evening. Velvet capes lined with cloth are reversible, and have certain practical style possibilities. . Next to the velvet capes and coats are those of the pew fur fabrics. These imitations of fur have various trade names. That representing caracul finis the most successful and probably will

•% f # ITH the return to one piece YV f dresses has. come the problem _%Jk / of the right outside garments y Unless careful thought is given, v this style point when after noon gowns are selected the whole result of the toilette is spoiled. The lines of the design of the outer garment should harmonize and conform to the lines of the. dress. If they do not the beauty, and j »tyle' of both are decreased. One lias I spent money foolishly and is exhibiting | an example of bad taste each time they j are worn together. Women who have learned how to dress ' realize the value of correct relation between the dress, wrap and hat. It is difficult to find an outside wrap that will go with several dresses, but it is not an impossibility, no matter liow modest a woman's allowance may be. There is no more graceful feminine gesture than that of a woman who, entering a theatre or room, first lets her wrap fali from her shoulders a bit, then with a second movement allows it to drop off into the waiting hands of an escoi't or maid. 'With the lovely figured cri-pe and chiffon linings rhat are a part of ■wraps'to-day this is a decorative asset in the '-picturesque ensemble when it is flung lack over the chair. The hat is the unit in the afternoon costume that embellishes most. Though it may have to be removed at matinee or concert if one does nor. occupy a logo, it is certainly kept on at afternoon teas and dances. It must then be of a color and kind that will harmonize with both dress and wrap. This harping 011 the relation of one unit of the toilette to another may seem unnecessary, but to one who has watched and stud'ed the Parisian and the American for the same number of years this as the point -where the French woman is ahead of American. It is not a matter of money, for I have seen women in 'New.York who had little to spend get themselves up so tastefully that every passerby gave them au admiring glance, ■while I have seen many a dre«s and hat that' came from a Fifth avenue house spoiled because one Mas entirely out of place when worn witlr the other. It must be said, though, that the number of women who are becoming known as good dressers in America is increasing. every year. .This may be because readymade clothes are becoming more lovely every season, and a woman with a small income can compete in etyle with one who can buy or order custom made dresses by the dozen. 1 know that there arc as pretty and well made models in the New York shops today and 'at--a reasonable prices as once were to- be found only abroad. To be sure, one runs-a risk of seeing a duplicate, but a different hat. wrap"or even ihe way - it is worn adds or detracts from it.' Besides, this is equally true'of

be the favorite, as caracul fur itself is to be fashionable this : winter/ These furlike materials make very effective afternoon coats; they are just the thing for those who go afoot a great deal. The three-quarter lengths are made after designs.. that will look well over the long tunic and basque dresses. They are lined with crepes or velvet of bright multicolored design so that they can be worn over any colored dress. Long automobile coats of ratine-like;

weaves are quiet enough in "appearance for street as well as for the car; the shawl collars of fur and the stunning crepe or taffeta linings raise the standard of this type of garment to the dignity of'an afternoon wrap. Printed velvet, figured and flowered crepes and taffetas brighten up the insides and fur collars add a distinguished note. One of the particular fancies is for the tete-'de negre satin coat. This color is an excellent shade,

goes well with all the brown furs used for trimming, yet is central enough in tone to harmonize'with any other polored dress, a valuable asset in an outside garment. ... .. - ' The return of feathers to style for hats is most welcome, for they always elaborate even the most simple..costume. There is no hint of willow plumes; the new ostrieli feather'is made into I faneies of all kinds. The tiny feather tip has eomc back, feather wreaths or a halo

of ostrich fronds are eeen on the very [ large new picture hats. Feathers ate even plaided; that is, the colors used in the plaid dresses are repeated in the 1 pompous and flower-like ornaments. Thistle tops, huge in size,' are made by straight feather fronds radiating from „ a velvet or frond calyx.. Chrysanthemums and thistle shaped flowers of leathers stand out from the hat brims as cactus grows on a shrub. Two colors are used more frequently than one in the ostrich feather clusters. Burned feathers replace aigrettes. There seem to be now three sizes of fashionable hat. The very small toque or caplike shape is reserved more for the morning tailored clothes. Small hats have not been in style for a number of .rears—the small brim with the small crown. These have now made a reap* pearance, and look very odd tilted on the head. The large hats with brim of extraordinary size that is not of even circumference throughout but of very suave curves has a very small crown; the decoration encircles it and lies on the brim. . Aigrettes, curled, and paradise are .still seen; these, however, though preserving their elegance, have not the newness of feathers. Both large and small hats are black, deep brown, blue . or plum velvet, bwj: of such a deep shade that'they can often be worn with black or contrasting colored dresses. The New York dress models for winter afternoon wear have almost invariably a tunic or redingote skirt over . the foundation skirt. There are an unusual number of different styles of corsage tops, which are going to give a welcome variation to the afternoon costume this coming season. The long moyen age basque, the vest corsage, the pinafore top to the dresses, the transparent long sleeves, the high necks are all equally new style features. Satin and chiffon are combined in some of the prettiest models. Cbantilly lace for ruffles and sleeves is used in the more elaborate. Tunics are wide at the hom and the foundation skirts are sometimes narrow and sometimes widened at the hem by a lace ruffle or an accordion pleated flounce. The sash still plays a role in the afternoon dress, placed so as to lengthen the waist line where the basque is not used., All corsages are not on new lines ; the conventional surplice bloused effect is often seen. A modernized set-in sleeve, generally of another material, 'satin, chiffon or lace, brings it up to date, the waist line apparently lengthened by. a sash or girdle. Dresses are still very short; this is especially for morning wear ami-dancing, however. It must be remembered that it is not a becoming; fashion for long bodied ' women; for the figure is dividedinto two parts of which the upper is the longer, dwarfing it, thur taking, away its grace.