Amateur Gardener.

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 127, 4 July 1914, Page 5

Amateur Gardener.

(By AOTEA.)

THE "WASH-UP" SEASON. July might be called the garden washup month. Ground heat is at its lowest point, while the rainfall during the month has a much higher average than that of any other month throughout the year. The old saying that as the days lengthen the cold strengthens is ■quite true. As the earth has about given up the sun heat stored up during the past summer, the soil is more inert and the fertilising agency of bacteria and microbe is in its most qxriescent state, though it is never quite idle, in this climate at any rate. And though we talk about trees being dormant during the winter months it is quite a mistake to think that the vegetative forces are absolutely at rest. Even before the leaves have quite fallen the fruit Trods, especially of some varieties of fruit, will be seen to have commenced to plump up in preparation for renewed activities in the springtime-of the coming year. In a temperate climate such as ours there is no pause between the autumn ebb and the spring flow of sap. Therefore, to conserve energy and to direct, the sap flow to the best advantage from the fruit-grower's standpoint, pruning should be completed before the turning point of vegetative activity. At this "wash up" season, very little can be ■said other than to repeat the advice already given during the past month. Bulbs that were potted in the autumn Ihould be watched and taken into the rreenhouse successionally as fit. Sweet Peas. Sweet peaß sown in boxes or several feeds in a pot should be potted off pimply before the tendrils become entangled. If it is intended to plant right <rut from seed pots or boxes, it is well to pinch off the points of the tendrils,

and to put a few thin twiggy sticks in about the plants to keep them upright. The best place for the pots and boxes is a frame out in a sunny position. It should be open at all times, unless in the ease of heavy rain or sharp frost. When the young plants have made three joints of' growth the point should be pinched out, and the resulting shoots that break should be thinned out to three, or four at the most. It is well when thinning out these extra shoots to take them clear out right to the base with the point of a sharp knife, otherwise if the base of the shoot is left it will furnish an increased crop of unnecessary shoots. Where the tree or perpetual flowering carnation is grown now is the time for taking cuttings. Chrysanthemums. Preparation should be made for striking chrysanthemum cuttings, the old plants should be put in a frame if not already done, or in a warm sheltered place, as at the base of a wall. The cuttings strike much more freely when taken in a growing condition, shoots that have had the points nipped with frost should not be taken. The late flowering varieties should be attended to first. The variety, Mrs G. Drabble, of which some fine flowers were seen last season, takes a long time to develop, and should be one of the first to be propagated. Always choose the growths that push up through the soil in preference to those that grow on the stem" or on the base of the old wood, as the former always makes the best plants and produce the finest flowers. Vine Borders. Now is a good time to renovate vine borders. Where the border is inside the house, two or three inches of the surface soil should be forked off and replaced with about the same quantity of good turfy loam with which a good sprinkling of bonedust has been mixed. If the loam is not available, a dressing of bone dust of "from 4 to 8 ounces to the square yard, according to the vigour of the vines, should be forked into and well mixed with the surface soil. Inside vine borders very often get very much too dry during the winter when the house is

open to sun and wind. A saturated condition of the soil when the vines are starting into growth is not advisable, but there should be no lack of moisture. Where vines are started early, it is a good plan to make up a bed of fermenting stable manure on the floor of the house, as the ammonia and moisture given off is a great assistance in giving a strong start. It is also very useful for propagating many. herbaceous plants such as Dahlias and for raising seedlings. Making Hotbeds. If, botbeds composed of fermenting materials are required for growing cucumbers, melons, or for raising seedlings or propagating, it will be well to see about gathering the materials together. If the hotbed is to be composed entirely of stable manure, it is best procured in the fresh state with plenty of long litter with it. It should be thrown into a conical heap, damping any_ portion that is dry, and turned at ""least three times at intervals of about a week, in no case letting the heat get excessive before turning. Keeping it in a damp condition all the time—not wet. The heat will be much more steady and lasting if about half the bulk is composed of hardwood tree leaves. The bed should be at least 3ft in depth after thoroughly treading firm, and if it can be sunk a foot into the ground without danger of the hole getting flooded in heavy rains, it will help to conserve the heat longer. Useful Hints. Potatoes for planting, especially early sorts, if not already done, should be placed on end in shallow boxes. If any of the eyes have started with soft, sappy growth, it should be rubbed off and allow a fresh growth that is firm and sturdy to be made before planting. In the fruit room many varieties will be getting past their season and going into decay. These should be taken out without delay, or they will soon affect the sound fruit. Where tomatoes are wanted early and there is sufficient convenience for their continuous growth, seed may be sown now. Forcing, as the term is generally used to imply, means disaster to the tomato plant, and unless a steady growing temperature with plenty of air can be given it is better

to defer sowing until the end of the month.

THE FOOD VALUE OF THE POTATO. In a review of a book—"The Potato: A Compilation of Information From Every Available Source''—published in the "Koyal Horticultural Society's Journal," some very interesting information is given as to the food value of the potato. Dr J. H. Kellogg, the well-known authority on food, says:— '' The belief is quite general that the potato especially promotes fat-making, and hence must be avoided by persons who have a tendency to obesity. This is an error.'' It will be of much interest to quote the following table by Dr Kellogg:— ' Food equivalent in total food value to lib of baked potatoes:— lilb of boiled potatoes. sioz of boiled beef. lib of chicken. IMb of codfish. of oysters. 41 pints of beef juice. 10 pints of beef tea. 1J pints of whole milk. 3 pints of skim milk. 8 eggs. 9oz baked beans. 7oz bread. 12 pints oatmeal. 1 pint boiled rice. lib bananas. 21b parsnips (cooked). lib green peas (cooked). 31b beet (cooked). 41b boiled cabbage 41b radishes. 51b tomatoes . 51b turnips (cooked) 6|lb cucumbers. "This table indicates that the potato is one of the most nourishing foods, and it is also recommended by the authors for such diseases as arteriosclerosis, gout, rheumatism, Bright's disease, apoplexy, and other maladies." ROSE-PRUNING. Pruning roses will be the subject of next week's notes. In the warm cli- j mates of Sumner and the Cashmere Hills rose-growers have been in the habit of pruning their roses during the present month, and no doubt the climatic conditions prevailing in these favoured districts warrants earlier pruning than that which the lower and colder levels about Christchurch require.