PICTURESQUE EVENING GOWNS

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 115, 20 June 1914, Page 6

PICTURESQUE EVENING GOWNS

THE insistence with which the 1880 note is bcnig struck in the world of fashiok is quite wonderful. On every side we find pleats and draperies which recall the Jersey Lily year.

And this is true with regard to evening gowns and walking costumes alike. We are going to be 1880 in very many respects; but, happily, Ave are not going to return to the 19-inch waist which was considered the only one possible at that period,. The natural waist will still remain popular, but it is certain that, little by little, the waist line is creeping down: the Empire ligne is now almost exclusively confined to gowns of the, intentionally, Josephine order.

The pretty evening gown depicted below shows an attractive sash drapery which is 18S0 in outliue. The under-dress is composed of flame-col-oured crepe bryk-bryk, one of the new materials of the [.resent season, and the picturesque is in sapphiieblue chiffon. This sash, which is immensely wide, is drawn over the hips and then tied in a loose bow at one side. The charming little corsage is formed by two large butterflies worked in sapphire beads and paillettes on blue tulle. Draped sashes of this kind are introduced on afternoon as well as evening gowns. They are always made of very supple materials and—worn in connection with a taffetas" are effective in shot gauze, withfringes of ,jt£|i-y porcciain beads on the loose ends of the .'bow. 4- .;.•;,... ... ~.., ;..';. The iaixd Ihe Pafisieunes. It is being whispered;ah Paris that .the recent visit of Queen Mary w r ill have a -considerable effect on the fashions of the present year. The Parisierines were immensely impressed by her, conypn atively, simple gowns and regal appearance. .'At : t„c '.Opera, on the occasion of the 'gala'performance, .'her-'beautiful-gown of cloth of .gold was so superb, and yet so entirely free from exaggeration, that it appealed strongly to Parisian intelligence. The Queen J s visit came at a_ critical moment where fashions are concerned. " The spirit of revolt and unrest has been making itself felt of late in exclusive circles. The true elegante has had a little too much'of mannequin modes, of eccentric headdresses, of slashed skirts which recall an ultra-Parisian revue. Picturesque Modes. Leading painters have joined hands in a determined attempt to revive the taste for picturesque, paintable modes. Some famous Paris dressmakers have openly expressed their opinion that a restless spirit of exaggeration is destroying that refined and cultured taste which has lent power and meaning to the words "Paris Fashions." The woman of fine taste has become dissatisfied. She has, in a sense, pulled up. In the future it will not be an easy task to induce her to accept sensational models.

The 1880 Note A New Material Spanish Coiffures. Parisian Method of Obtaining White Arms. j

Now that all the new evening gowns are sleeveless the question of arms becomes an important one. It is not every woman who can, with good effect,*, expose her arms right up to the shoulder. And yet this will have to be done, for sleeves are fading away to nothing.

Here again we have an echo from 1880. Anyone who takes the trouble to look up old photographs taken in that year will find the rather tight, cross-over corsage, ■without sleeves, which we are wearing to-day.

Now, one thing is certain, and it. is this: very much can be done to improve the shape and colour of one's arms. For instance,-the nightly massage with almond or olive oil. This is a very simple and inexpensive remedy, but excellent. Fill the palm of the left hand with oil and gently, but very firmly, massage the right arm from shoulder to wrist. Keep up the regular movement for at least ten minutes, then do the'same for the other arm.

Pure olive oil is a really splendid beautifier for the neck as well as for the arms. In the morning it is a good thing to rub the arms—neck also if necessary—-with freshly cut slices of raw potatoes.

Spain is having a considerable .influence on the fashions of 1914. We have Spanish caps and Spanish toques'; now we find" the'high .Spanish comb the most fashionable hair ornament of the season,. .',', Decorative Combs, These big combs arc wonderfully decorative. Not very long ago I purchased one in Seville—it was in real tortoiscshell and 10 inches high. The carved-design was very intricate, and the man from whom I bought it told me, with pride, that he had sold a similar comb to the Queen of Spain On the occasion of her last visit to Seville. The Parisiennes are wearing these high combs instead of giant aigrettes or ospreys—they arrange them eoquettishly at the side of the head jutting out beyond the coils of hair, and in some cases the carved designs are outlined with delicate silver filigree. Apropos evening headdress. I am glad to be able to state that natural hair is once more coming into fashion. Ido not mean to say that powder and patches will not continue' to be largely worn, but it is certain that the rage for pink and blue locks is dying out. At the royal gala hardly one coloured headdress was to be seen. The extreme shortness of the new evening dresses is remarkable. And besides being short they are so far as the under-dresses are concerned—skimpy. The effect is droll, but attractive. When a woman has pretty feet and ankles these quaint little under-dresses make one first smile aisd then admire. In a way it is 1 the merveilleuses line, but then very many of our ■ modem short dresses are guiltless of trains.—Paris Correspondent "Daily Mail."