PARIS FASHIONS.

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 61, 18 April 1914, Page 6

PARIS FASHIONS.

DRESSES AT THE EACES. PAKIS, February 28. There was a time when one saw the best-dressed women in the world in their very best clothes at the Paris races, but nowadays, according to the special correspondent of "The Times,' ' this is not quite the case, The best-dressed women of to-day dress as inconspicuously as the fashions allow at all popular gatherings, and they reserve their indiscretions for the social events of their own particular set. The sensations at the races are worn by mannequins and actresses, and the same dresses, modified perhaps and sometimes accentuated, will be worn by the femme du monde in private. So far, this year, the weather has not allowed of many spring fashions being worn at Auteuil without heavy coverings of fur, but it is easy to see which way tas'te is tending. There is a vigorous attempt to bring in bright colouring, and there is a strong leaning still towards the tight skirt. Nevertheless, the most Parisian of all tailor-mades is simplicity itself and in black, with touches of white in the form of fine lawn turned back collar and cuffs, suggestive of "widows' weeds." Navy blue serge allied to black liberty or taffetas is also seen a good deal; and all eyes were turned on a quaint young person who was wearing a navy blue serge coat and skirt, with an enormous double loop sash of black liberty, which formed a very good imitation bf the bustle. Her skirt ended above the ankles and was extremely tight, she balanced herself on two very high heels, and her shiny black shoes were imperfectly held steady by the cothurne. On her hea'd she wore a closefitting bonnet de police in liberty and straw, which went very well Avith a short coat cut rather like the velvet coat of the Highlander. Another woman was wearing a rather bright blue gabardine (I had always imagined gabardine to mean a garment, but the rue de la Paix says it is cloth) trimmed with amber buttons and a loose amber cloth waistcoat under a short coat with short double basques behind. The skirt was draped in long pleats in front, and behind it had three deep flounces, a fashion which gives height and slimness. With this suit was worn a black straw toque with a liberty crown which sat well down over one ear; the only trimming was three funny little balls of flossed silk with spiky ends. Two sat out over one eye, and the third one poked out at the back of the head. A striking young woman wore a silk tartan dress, very much draped and bloused, with a bolero of black velvet and a black velvet toque; but tartans and stripes of all kinds should be chosen with reserve, for already the big shops are full of them, and they have caught the taste of the "little person," who now wears a skirt of bright striped or bright plaid material, with a plaid coat and a straw hat of brilliant hue, a plaid crown, and quills stuck at barbaric angles. Bright green suits have also been seen at Auteuil, but the favoured shades are undoubtedly all those which run among the golds and yellows and fawns. 1 urs are noticeable of the richer and daruw. kinds. Gloves are

either white or ni/tural suede, and broad stitching is not so much in vogue as it was. Boots and shoes ar3 at the height of luxury, but the parisicnne of the better class avoids the cothurne, except for house.wear.. Verywell made boots, with shiny vamps and cloth tops, are worn with tailor-mades; equally well-male soft kid shoes, with old silver or paste buckles, are worn with afternoon gowns, and in the evening any fantasy the mind may imagine can be worn with impunity. DANCE FEOCKS. One of the first, if not the first, dressmakers in Paris is making his afternoon and evening dresses with a view to their being w r orn to dance in. This means that they must allow of free movements; and therefore they are either slit in front, behind, or at the side, for none of the present draperies allows enough amplitude for dancing without the opening near the feet. The- afternoon dance frocks, about which I want to speak particularly, are made chiefly in taffetas and tulle; and one I remember perfectly was in navy blue .taffetas with a tunic of navy blue tulle arranged in two wired flounces. The corsage was just a blue tulle drapery over one of white tulle with very short sleeves. The whole thing was simplicity itself, and. it was the most Parisian thing imaginable. In quite another style, yet just as simple, was a pearly white liberty with a kimono corsage of lace in the same lovely shade. The skirt was just caught up to indicate a "Botticelli drapeiy, and in front, near the feet, it fell out in a pleat instead of being slit. There was no waistbelt to this dress, and no trimming, but it was marked by that supreme touch of French taste in putting two simple things together which is inimitable. A third dress I remember was in black taffetas, flounced and puffed about the hips and bunched up behind into a true bustle. It had a loose corsage of no particular shape, with kimono shoulders, short sleeves, and a dainty trimming of ruched taffetas from which rose a Medicis collar and guimpe of very fine lace. ' . ' * In all instances the draperies of the skirts tencLtowards the bunched-up effects of the Watteau period, but without any of the suggestion of waist line and

bones which marked women's bodices in the day of that exquisite painter. It is, indeed, a boneless age, where bodies are concerned; and however confined our walking movement may be, there is no restraint upon our breathing apparatus —a fact which may be put to the credit of the fashion makers when they are being criticised and condemned for folly and aHimpraeticableness.