Amateur Gardener.

Sun (Christchurch), Volume I, Issue 61, 18 April 1914, Page 5

Amateur Gardener.

(By AOTEA.)

PLANTING FRUIT TREES,

In most cases, recommendations as to site, soil, or aspect will be of little avail to those for whom these notes are written. Generally with amateurs who have town or suburban gardens there is not much room for variable conditions within the garden bounds. The best aspect is a northern one sheltered from the prevailing north-east and' south-west winds.

. If the soil is fresh and of good quality, double digging will be a epiite sufficient preparation. If it has been exhausted by cropping or in any other way, it should be enriched, and the "best method of doing so is to thoroughly incorporate some w r ell-rotted stable manure, with, in addition, a good dressing of bone-dust. The position where the trees are to be planted should be reinforced with any turfy fibrous loam available. If the ground slopes much to the north and has a clay subsoil, it would be well to trench it a spade's depth deeper, leaving the clay where Nature put it, mixing with it ashes or any rough manurial substances, to keep it open and free. This greater depth will give a larger root run, and siJt3*ajn the trees better during dry seasons. On light soils an addition of clay or some heavier loam will be of advantage, while on heavy soils peat or light turfy loam will help to keep it in good workable condition. Ashes from wood or smother-fires are also excellent for the purpose, while for mixing with the subsoil, coal ashes are not to be despised. Choosing the Trees. If possible, go to the nursery and choose the trees. Some think they are gaining somewhat by getting large trees to start with; but it is generally a fallacy. Two-year-old trees that " have been grown in soil that is in good heart, and without the aid of manure, are the best on the whole for all purposes. They are more amenable to training into good shape and form, whereby the best results may be attained. Dwarf trees of all sorts, excepting the quince, should have a stem about 13 inches high and not exceeding 2ft,

J with four or five main branches start- [ ing from or nearly one place as possible. | . If there arc more than this number l of branches they should be reduced, | leaving those -that are most even in i size, and most evenly placed, so as to start the framework of the tree on a I regular form. These should be cut back one-third of their length, shortening them back finally in August to about 12 inches in length, and to buds, that give promise of branches in the desired directions. If the trees are three years old or more, and there are toe many branches forming the crown, do not hesitate to cut right away the ones not wanted, or the tree will tend to become too crowded with branches, and necessitate a more severe pruning later. Planting. During the process of planting do not expose the roots of the trees unduly, but keep them either covered w T ith soil or with a damp cloth. Should the roots be dry they should be placed in water for a time before planting. As the blight-proof stock is now almost entirely used throughout the Dominion, there is little danger of the roots being affected with American blight, so that a remedy that has been found very beneficial where the roots have been attacked needs no more than mention. It is to immerse the roots in water for 24 hours, which will completely destroy the aphides. Dwarf apple trees should have at least 12ft of space between them, and pears, cherries, plums, and peaches from 14ft to 16ft. If there is a choice of soil, apples, cherries, and plums do best in a good loam that is not too heavy and that is well drained and yet not lacking in moisture. The pear does best in a heavier loam with a clay subsoil that is not too wet or stiff. For the peach and nectarine the soil should not be rich in humus, and should be a little on the binding side, as with a sweet, firm root run the wood will be firmer, shorter-jointed, and will ripen better —all-important factors for the production of healthy trees and fine fruit. The peach and nectarine may be planted from now onwards, but if the position is damp or bleak during the winter it is better deferred until August. If the ground has been well prepared planting may commence as soon as the trees have lost their foliage. Take out a hole of sufficient size to spread out the roots; keep the soil in the centre of the hole the highest, so that the roots will tend slightly downward.

When placing the tree in the hole see that all bruised roots and all roots goingdownward —tap roots —are cut off with a sharp knife, disentangle the finer roots and spread them out, then fill in with the best fibrous loam that is to hand, working the soil in amongst the roots. When throwing the soil on to the roots, it should be done from the opposite side of the tree, so that the soil will fall with the roots and keep them straight, while if thrown in from the nearest side the soil will be thrown against them

This diagram illustrates planting a two-year-old apple or pear tree. When planting, the branches should be shortened at a, pruning back to 6 in August, the branches should have been cut previously at a and shortened to & when planting; c shows the soil being filled in to the opposite side of the tree so so as not to bend the roots back. Note the convex form of the bottom of the hole and 'that the roots are distributed evenly throughout the soil, the top one being not more than four inches below the surface. The soil should be filled in to the dotted line, leaving it loose on the surface, and about two inches higher than the general level to allow for sinkage. and be inclined to double them back. If the tree is shaken slightly with an up and down movement it will help to settle the soil about the roots, but thi.3 must not be done to the extent of lifting the tree, or the return motion will double up the roots. See that the tree stands upright and in proper position, then firm the soil in well above the roots, commencing from the outside of the hole and fuming towards the centre. With dwarf trees it is seldom necessary to stake, but if it is to be done the stake should

be driven in before the hole is filled in, as then there is no danger of damaging the roots. Tie loosely at first, otherwise the tree may be hung up when the soil settles.. Some Good Varieties. In naming a selection of varieties the choice will be given to those that are of free though moderate growth, that crop regularly, and that arc not subject beyond the'average to fungoid diseases. The varieties are placed iu order of ripening. Apples. —Dessert—lrish Peach, Qnarrenden, Cox Orange, Jonathan, Stunner, Cooking, Keswick Codlin, Lord Wolseley, Ballarat Seedling. There has been considerable research made of late, as to the effect and necessity of cross-fertilisation for fruit trees. Some varieties have been found to be quite self-sterile, and unless they are planted in close company to a variety that bears potent pollen, it will bear little or no fruit, iho pol'en from so'iu 1 v.t ; -.;'■ •:•. beiu'"-" ■ •■''> ■.»:;""■ c^----

tive than others. Amongst apples in all cases where Quarrenden was planted, the contiguous trees bore better and finer fruit than those that were not within its influence. Keswick Codlin is a very old variety, but for early use it is of the best, the fruit .breaking down well in cooking, as soon as it is of useful size. Lord Wolseley is good for dessert as well as cooking, while Sturmer, our best late dessert apple, is equally as good for cooking. Pears. —Dessert —Williams Bon Chretien, Doyenne du Cornice, Buerre Paradise, GansePs Bergamot, Mane Louise, Winter N'elis. Cooking—Beurre Clairgeau, Vicar of Winkfield. The quality of pears is very variable, season and soil both changing it at times from good to very indifferent, or even bad. The varieties mentioned above are amongst the most reliable, Gausells Bergamot being the least so. At its best it is a very line pear.

Plums. —Dessert—Angelina Burdett, Greengage. Jefferson. Cooking—Rivers Early "Prolific, Orleans, Yellow Magnum Bonum.

Cherries. —Early Purple Giguue, Early Rivers, Frogmore Bigarreau, Bedford Prolific, Bigarreau Napoleon, Morol!o.

The Morello cherry is most useful for preserves and cooking. It succeeds in a cooler and shadier position than the sweet cherries.

Peaches.— High 's Early Canada, Hale's Early, Eoyal George, Lady Palmerston, Late Crawford, Salway. Nectarines. —Early Eivers, Zealandia. Apricots.— Large Eed, Moor Park, Eoyal, Mansfield's Seedling.