THE GARDEN

Sun (Auckland), Volume IV, Issue 986, 31 May 1930, Page 32

THE GARDEN

By

LEONARD A. GRIFFITHS, F.R.H.S.

1 think that 1 shall never scan A tree as lovely as a man.”

PLANT NEW ZEALAND TREES

The greater number of people, when Selecting ornamental trees for large gardens, pass over our own native trees. The idea seems to have fixed itself into their minds that New Zealand trees are too big for private gardens. This may be so, but it takes many years before some of the most handsome of our native trees would be too big for ordinary gardens.

We are —the trees. Our dark and leafy glade Bands the bright earth with softer mysteries. —Miss Colbourne-Veel.

The Dominion of New Zealand consists of the North, South, and Stewart Islands, with a total area of 102,912 square miles. With the exception of a few types of trees confined to the northern warm climate, the same timber trees are to be found generally throughout the three islands, and most of the formation is of sub-tropical characteristics. The timber trees and shrubs in general are evergreens, intermixed with nikau palms, tree ferns, and filmy ferns. The Kauri (Agatliis Australia). — Kauri trees are specially adapted to the Auckland climate. They require the warm, sub-tropical atmosphere, and are easily grown. Young plants can be obtained from any of the leading nurserymen. The kauri is the largest tree in the New Zealand forests, a lofty specimen with straight columnar trunk and rounded bushy head. It attains a maximum height of 140 feet, and a diameter of 22 feet. It is one of the most magnificent timbers known, with erect clean stems rising to a height of 60 feet without throwing a branch. The whole tree is extremely resinous, a'nd often masses of kauri gum are to be seen in the forked branches. The kauri grows only in a limited area of New Zealand, mostly in the warm Auckland Province to the north of 38deg. south latitude. It is very slow of growth, and so can be planted in private gardens without fear of overcrowding.

Rimu or Red Pine (Dacrydium cupressinum).—Rimu is a tree that should be in every Auckland garden. It is comparatively quick-growing, and very ornamental plants can be obtained in plots about 18 to 24 inches high. This species forms the principal timber tree of New Zealand forests, and provides at least half of the sawmilling production. The trees vary in height, and grow in soil from sea-level to 2,500 feet. Rimu is one of the most beautiful specimens to be seen in New Zealand flora. It has

■ —Joyce Kilmer. pale yellowish - green drooping branches, and differs from any other forest tree. The leaves are only small prickles running up a long stem, from which branch out other small stems, whose united weight causes the main stem to hang like the branches of the weeping willows When the plants are young, the foliage has the appearance of trailing lycopodium. The timber is beautifully marked, and used largely in New Zealand for door-making, etc. This tree can be planted in any situation. Totara (Podocarpus Totara). —To tara is another of our useful New Zealand timber trees which often attain a height of 100 feet. This tree occurs throughout the Dominion. The wood is very durable, and is often used for sleepers, wharf piles, telegraph posts, and exposed joinerywork. When first cut the timber is of a reddish colour, seasoning to a reddish-brown. Maoris often used this tree for canoe-making, hollowing out canoes from 50 to 80 feet long from single logs. The leaves are stiff and narrow, with sharp needle points. The bark often hangs in thin papery strips round the trunk. The foliage is of a brownish-green hue.

IRIS SUSIANA

KNOWN AS THE MOURNING IRIS This beautiful iris is not met with in our gardens often enough, due, uo doubt, to lack of knowledge regarding cultural methods. Being a native of Asia Minor, its chief requirements are good drainage, ample sunlight, and a distinct rest during the summer. The flotvers of Iris Susiana appear during September and October, and have a silver-grey appearance produced by numerous veins, and dots I of blackish brown or purple, with a flush of purple on creamy white ground. The falls have a broad cushion of brownish black hairs near the base. The flowers are large, occasionally measuring Sin across and 7in deep. This iris requires to be planted in soil that has been well worked and is thoroughly drained. Heavy soils should be made lighter by adding sand, grit or lime rubble. The rhizomes must not be planted deeper than 2in to 2£in., and it is advisable, where the ground is inclined to be damp, to surround the rhizome with a good layer of sand at the time of planting, so as to insure perfect drainage. Being a lime lover, liberal supply of lime and lime rubble worked into the soil prior to planting is beneficial. The best time for planting is April and May, just as the young roots begin to issue from the rhizome. Select a warm, sunny position. During the summer the leaves begin to fade, thus indicating the approach of maturity. When the leaves have died down the rhizomes should be carefully lifted and allowed to dry in a shady spot for a few days, and then stored in dry sand or granulated charcoal until planting time arrives.

RENOVATING MAIDENHAIR

Adiantum. or maidenhair fern, is a popular pot plant for greenhouse or conservatory decoration. There are numerous varieties, but the two chief distinct kinds are Farleyense, with very large fronds, and gracillimum, which produces dense masses of small leaves. Plants which have been rested during winter should be examined, and if signs of new growth are apparent, moisten the soil well with tepid water. Those which are well rooted and healthy will not need re-potting if this was done last year. Scrape away a little of the top soil, however, and topdress with equal parts of loam, leafmould and decayed manure. If repotting is necessary, the j>iant should

be turned out of the pots, the crocks removed and put into a slightly larger pot. The pots must be clean and well drained, and the compost prepared as follows:—Equal parts good fibrous loam, picked carefully to pieces by hand, and leaf-mould sifted through a half-inch sieve, half a part dried sifted, manure, and a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. Spread the compost thinly on the potting bench and give a light sprinkling of soot. Then repot the plants, placing the crowns level with the top of the soil. Press the compost firm with the fingers. Place the plants in warmth, damp the outsides of the pots and staging, but do not moisten the young shoots, and wait until the compost is fairly dry before watering it.

VIOLETS ATTEND TO THEM NOW Violets will now be sending out plenty of runners, which have to be removed to concentrate the strength of the plants on producing good blooms. Every one of these runners may, if desired, be turned into cuttings, the plants raised from them being greatly superior to those from runners torn from the plants and used as stock in September. The cuttings must be made to a reasonable length, about three inches, so that they do not rise much above the soil when planted. When large quantities are grown they can be pricked into a bed of light soil made up in a frame, but for small lots boxes about four inches deep will answer the purpose, the cuttings being put in at two inches apart. The cuttings will root with the greatest ease provided they are properly watered and given plenty of fresh air, and the middle of September should see them being hardened —by standing the boxes in the open air—in preparation for being planted out to develop into fine flowering clumps for the following winter. ROSE PLANTING The planting of roses in springtime is growing in popularity. The great point in favour of it is that one avoids the risk of losing trees during the winter, a risk that is always present when planting is done in winter. A tree that must bear the brunt of frost after having been in the ground only a mouth or so may succumb. When rose-planting is contemplated, the soil should be got ready some time beforehand. It should be dug over to a depth of at least 18 inches. If the soil is light, it can be improved by adding heavy loam or even some clay to it. Where gravel rises very near the surface, a good layer should be removed and replaced with loamy soil. In very wet gardens it is a good thing to put three or four inches of rubble or broken bricks 18 inches below the surface of the whole rose bed, or if that is too much trouble, at least to put a layer of such materials in the bottom of the holes taken out for the trees. The rubble will prevent stagnant water collecting round the roots. Roses planted in spring must not be kept out of the ground long. Their journey from the nursery should be made as quickly as possible, and the bed in which they are to be planted should be well ready when they arrive. If the roots should look at all dry, they should be immersed in water before planting. Golden rules for planting are: (1) To give each plant room to develop properly, spacing bush roses at 24 to 30 inches apart, and standards 30 to 36 inches. (2) To plant at the same depth as the plants were planted in the nursery, which is indicated by the soil mark on the stem, and in any case to have the point where the rose was grafted on to the stock covered by soil. (3) To make the soil quite firm about them. Should the weather be very wet when the roses are planted, however, it would be well to delay treading the soil firm until it begins to get a little dry. Further Retails of how to plant roses, and a list of the best varieties, will be given from time to time.