CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT EGMONT.

Stratford Evening Post, Volume XXXIV, Issue 47, 18 October 1912, Page 2

CHRISTMAS ON MOUNT EGMONT.

A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE. (Taranaki Herald.) The ascent of Mount Egmont is so easy that those who have been to the summit and are looking for “other worlds to conquer” may feel inclined to emulate the feat accomplished by a party consisting of Messrs C. S. Curtis, Frank Arden, and T. H. Penn, of Stratford, as far back as 1888. They were the first to achieve it, we believe, and so far as : we know no one has attempted it since; that is, to make the circuit of the mountain at or about the scrub line. The following account, written by Mr Penn, appeared in the Taranaki Herald of January 3rd, 1889:

■- A party, consisting of Mr C. Curtis, Mr F. Arden, and the writer, spent the Christmas holidays in making a circuit of the mountain above the bush line at a height varying from four to six thousand feet, and in exploring, as far as time would permit, the principal gorges. A start was made on. Monday morning (December 24th, 1888) via the new track which has been cut, chiefly by the efforts of the above ’gentlemen, from the end of the Pembroke Road to the belt of open bush which encircles Mount Egmont at the altitude of some 2500 ft. Mr C. Curtis was tacitly elected chairman—beg pardon, too many public meetings lately—l mean leader of the expedition, and, waving his billhook (the banner with the strange device had been unfortunately forgotten), cried “Excelsior!” Upwards and onwards we journeyed until the bush got inconveniently situated, and turning north plunged—l believe “plunged” is an expression of considerable elegance, but, as a matter of fact, we did nothing of the sort, but let ourselves and our swags down as carefully as possible—into the narrow and deep gorge of the Te Popo. The wet weather was responsible for a good lot of water here, and we had a very moist journey indeed for a couple of hours, when we emerged on the scrubcovered ridge bounding the Manganui Gorge—one of the largest on • the mountain, and with very high and steep cliffs. It was getting late in the afternoon, so we lost no time in getting down the side by a path (if path one could call it) discovered on a previous visit.

The bottom of the gorge is full of Rories and gravel fallen from the sides, and under which the river runs for a long way, making its appearance lower down. Continuing down the gorge, looking for a suitable camping ground, we noticed that the south side appeared to- be quite inaccessible, except at the one place we had happened to hit upon. We soon found a capital camp—a good-sized dry cave with plenty of dry firewood, quite a bonanza. A short distance below was a line waterfall, which we judged to lie forty oi- fifty feet high, but were too wet and hungry to examine very particularly. A grand fire was soon burning, billy boiled, clothes dried, oil sheets and blankets unrolled, and after a feed and a Christmas carol or two by the musical members of the party in honour of the occasion, we slept the sleep of the just. Christmas Day broke fine and warm, and after another look at the fall, the name of which we could not ascertain ("afterwards called Curtis Fall), Nature having omitted to chalk it up, wo climbed the north side of the ravine, finding it a remarkably tough job, being about ns steep as it could be without being quite perpendicular, and gained the ridge, finding ourselves in the scrub, about the worst travelling imaginable. We accordingly descended into the next gorge, a small one, which wo followed down some distance, but, finding nothing of much interest, retraced our stops and gain-

ed the tussoc and moss line. We here turned southward a bit to examine a fall which we could see pouring over a high cliff at the head of the Manganui. We found it rather curious, the water dropping into a sort of huge pie dish, over which was a crust of snow several feet thick. The fall had broken through the crust, forming a semi-circular hole, and had, as far as we could see, washed out all the fruit, We now resumed our progress northwards, passing a great square mass of rock (Warwick Castle) which, on careful examination, proved also to be unprovided with any clue to its identity. It struck us as being somewhat singular that whilst on the Egmont Road route, the Kapuni route, and the old New Plymouth route over the ranges, each object of interest was to be recognised by its own special designation on this, as yet unexplored, side of the mountain Nature appeared to have left her various remarkable pieces of handiwork without any distinguishing appellations. Speculating on the whyness of this thusness, we pursued the uneven tenor of our way over rock, moss, tussock grass or snow, until about midday we arrived at the edge of an immense amphitheatre of rock, a great chasm in the mountain’s side, which wo,judged to be the head of the Waiongona River. We waited some time here to get a good view, the hollow being full of cloud. The morning had not been favourable for extended views, our range seldom extending beyond the Mountain Road settlements. As we worked round to the New Plymouth side the sky became much clearer, and by the time we struck the Egmont Road track we got splendid views of the ranges, New Plymouth, Waitara, Inglewood, etc. We now began to consider the question of camping and accordingly on reaching the west branch of the Waiwakaiho we descended in search of wood and water, and although not lucky enough to find a cave on this occasion, passed the night comfortably enough, except that the bed having rather too heavy a grade, one of us occasionally woke to find his feet in the fire.

Early next morning we were again seeking the upper - regions, following up the river, what there was of it. We found traces of previous visitors here in the shape of billhook marks. This gorge took us a long time to get to the head of, being constantly blocked by perpendicular harriers of rock, over- which there would, in heavy rains, be a tine succession of cascades. However, they were all circumented in time, and we stood once more upon the moss, and, making westward, got a good view of the swamp through which the Stony River pursues its way to Bell’s Falls. The day was beautifully fine and clear, and the mountain side, after leaving the rough country opposite the ranges, more level and open than any part yet traversed. Frequent traces of cattle were found on the moss. Towards midday the hot sun made us cast affectionate glances in jthe direction of the “billy,” and keep a sharp look-out for signs of water. Strange to say, this element, so plentiful on other parts of old Egmont, was here conspicuously absent, gully after gully proving dry. At last, well on in the afternoon, when all of us were getting very much the worse for drink—-I mean for want of it—we reached the edge of a deep gorge overlooking Parihaka. It looked as dry as the valley of dead bones, but the rushing of water was plainly audible further down. The question was—could we get down? The side was quite perpendicular, and formed of a very loose unreliable material. However, we not in a humour to stick at trifles, and were soon at the bottom and making off at a good pace for the water. lam not much of a connoisseur in this species of liquor, but this sample was undoubtedly of the very finest brand. Having refreshed, we proceeded to explore, and soon came to the conclusion ■ that this gorge was by far the finest and most interesting on the mountain. The wild, desolate aspect of the upper portion gives place lower down to a scene of singular beauty. The bottom of the gorge flattens out and affords space on each side of the little river for a bolt of koromiko and gin wood, whilst high, dark cliffs relieved with patches of green scrub, shut in the picture, except where one looks down upon the country round Parihaka, the white breakers on the coast and the sea beyond. At the upper end towers the snowy peak of Egmont, with the deep blue sky for a background. This place appears to be easy enough of access from below, as there were plentiful signs of cattle, and we interrupted the meditations of a party of six, headed by a fine old black and white bull. A striking object in the valley is an immense pillar of dark rock, probably 150 feet in height, standing well away from the side of the gorge. We thought so conspicuous an object must surely have a name of its own, and so it has. It is called “Tooleydaddles’ Pulpit.” Wo camped under a rock near the foot, which might well serve for a reading desk. Next morning, Thursday, found us struggling up the south side of the gorge, which must be at least 500 feet deep. It was a tough job, and at the top, where the cliff in many places overhangs, needed some care to safely surmount. A light rope would have been of great service. Once more on the level wo made excellent progress, soon opening views of the country round Ha worn and Manaia. The mountains in Nelson Province were very distinct, one snowclad peak, probably Mount Arthur, showing up very conspicuously. As we got nearer Fantham Peak the heads of the gorges gave us some trouble, having straight wall-like sides with snow slopes between. It was occasionally necessary to seek a lower level to surmount the opposite ridge, and then we had great fun “tobogganning” down the snow slope on our swags. This is a very exciting amusement; one flics

downwards with the speed of an express train, but care is necessary to avoid coming to grief on the rocks below. It would be injudicious to attempt it unless sure of one’s destination. Rounding Fantham Peak we caught sight of Lake Dive in the bush below, and soon the Ngaire swamp and Stratford hove in sight. Beyond the swamp, some ten miles, a© near as one could judge, the sun was shining on some great cliffs of yellow rock which are probably on the Patea, and indicate some roughish country in that direction. A consultation was now held as to whether we should push on to our starting point or roost at the camp at Dawson’s Falls. The latter alternative seemed to find most favour with the meeting, and we accordingly adjourned to the banks of the Kapuni, had afternoon tea at Kendal’s Cascade, and reached the camp with enough daylight left to make things comfortable for our last night. Being the last, we concocted a bowl of punch with the aid of the painkiller and-—other chemicals brought in case of accidents. And so, as old Pepys would have said, “were pretty 'merry and went to bed.”

We were aroused at dawn by a terrible disturbance overhead, caused by a couple of kakas carrying on a vehement argument, of which we appeared to be the subject. On one ol us showing signs of returning animation these desperadoes departed with a parting volley of blood-curdling anathemas. Nothing daunted, wo rose, made our usual elaborate toilets, breakfasted sumptuously on damper, bacon and tea (we did the thing in great style, having discovered some tin plates in the treasure chest attached to the camp), and made oil through the open bush across the "Waingongoro and Patea Rivers to om starting point. The only object ot interest on this part of the route was the sight of one of the party taking his morning bath in the waters of the Patea. It was a fine sight, but surely there was no necessity to dip swag, billy, and binocular, not to mention a suit of clothes. However, this i© a mere matter of taste.

It only remains to say that the party reached their respective homes on Friday; that they consider they had a high old time of it; the scenery they declare to he gorgeous; and evei since, to make up for lost opportunities on Christmas Day, they have keen doing a bigger gorge than any to be found on Mount Egmont.