TO BIG BAY AND MARTIN’S BAY IN WINTER

Southland Times, Issue 23947, 13 October 1939, Page 5

TO BIG BAY AND MARTIN’S BAY IN WINTER

Nine-Days Journey Through Magnificent Scenery

By

MARJORIE BARLOW

To have left Invercargill in rain, driven through a snowstorm near Mossburn, and then come out into bright sunshine in the Eglinton and Lower Hollyford Valleys was my pleasant experience recently when doing the round trip to Big Bay and Martin’s Bay. During the nine days of the journey we had brilliantly fine weather, except for one wet morning, and this while the remainder of the South Island was having heavy falls of snow. The mildness of the weather in the Lower Hollyford and on the coast was a revelation to us, although we had been assured by our guide, Mr David Gunn, that July was a- good time of the year for a visit to Martin’s Bay.

Mr Gunn had been in Invercargill and so accompanied us on the drive up to the Hollyford. After leaving the car, by which we travelled as far as possible down the road under construction in the Lower Hollyford Valley, we soon reached Deadman’s Hut, where we spent the first night.

This hut gained its gruesome name through a benighted traveller, who camped for the night under a large boulder in the vicinity, finding a skeleton further in under the rock when he awoke in the morning.

We found two men in occupation at the hut. One of these was Mr Hugh McKenzie, who was born at Jamestown, a now deserted settlement on Lake McKerrow. Mr McKenzie has an interesting stock of reminiscences, and my companion was particularly interested in his tales of the climbing of Mounts Madeline and Tutoko by Mr Samuel Turner, as she had known Mr Turner personally. Next day a clear sunny morning saw us ready with two horses to start the round trip, the journey for the day being to Hidden Falls Hut, about 12 miles away. When crossing the Hollyford river we had a little excitement as Belle, the younger horse, did not take too kindly to carrying a double burden. In Mr Gunn’s capable hands, however, she was soon subdued, and carried us safely across. My share of the excitement came after crossing, when Belle suddenly bounded forward; I leaned back to dodge an overhanging branch, slid over her tail and landed on my feet without even a jar. A few miles further on we came to the camp of the surveyors for the new road, and there we received a warm welcome and an invitation to have a cup of tea. VARIETY IN BUSH The bush in the Lower Hollyford contains a great variety of trees, and is indescribably beautiful. The numerous fems, pungas and other tree ferns form a strong contrast to the birch forests of the Eglington, Greenstone and Routeburn Valleys. Wood pigeons were very numerous and it fascinated me to watch them soaring down from the heights on the opposite bank of the river. 1 Hidden Falls Hut was reached early that afternoon, and we were glad to have time to visit the falls. As indicated by the name, they are completely hidden from sight until right at. the foot of them, but they are very pretty, and well worth the short walk. The second day’s journey took us from Hidden Falls, around Lake Alabaster and up the Pyke river to the

Barrier Hut, a distance of about 18 miles. We crossed the Hidden Falls river and then made good time over the eight miles to the Pyke Hut, where a pause was made for lunch. Belle was left behind at this hut to be picked up on our return, the steady and surefooted Mary being taken with us. After travelling a few miles up the Pyke river we came to Lake Alabaster, in which were mirrored some exquisitely lovely reflections of Mounts Madeline and Tutoko. It was dark before we reached the Barrier Hut and a good fire and hot meal were very welcome. Another clear and sunny morning made me wonder how much longer our luck with the weather would hold. On this, the third day out from Deadman’s, we traversed 12 miles to the Upper Pyke Hut. Lake Wilmot was reached late in the morning and the track alternately skirted the shore or rose into the bush if necessary. Being on the horse at the time, I was deputed to take her round the lake in the shallow water and to meet the others at a certain place. This was safely accomplished though Mary did not like walking on the thin ice as it broke under her feet. The bush around Lake Wilmot is very fine and the variety of ferns trailing down from the trees added to the charm of the scene. There, too, we saw some perfect reflections of the mountains in the placid i water of the lake. MANY RIVER CROSSINGS At the head of the lake we crossed the Pyke River, and the rest of the afternoon seemed to consist of crossing and recrossing this river numerous times. As we journeyed up the river flat the Red Hills came into view, and the setting sun picked out the snowy tops of the mountains with a rosy light. Our destination, the Upper Pyke hut, was reached well before darkness, for which we were thankful. Travelling in the dark was no trouble to Mi Gunn, who said he felt his way with his feet. Our poor town feet, however, did not have anything like the same ability, and we had been very glad to have electric torches to light our way on the previous night. The fourth day’s journey was a long one and took us to Martin’s Bay via Big Bay. For a time the track followed an old river bed and wound through groves of pepper trees, the leaves ol which were most pleasing to the eye. No two trees had leaves of exactly the same shade and the warm purplish-red was a cheering sight on a frosty morning. After leaving the river-bed we passed through some taller trees and there saw growing within a few yards of each other three magnificent specimens of rimu, matai and kahikatea, commonly called red, black and white pine. Once a kaka flew overhead screeching loudly, but we were told these birds are not nearly so plentiful as they formerly were. Wekas had also decreased considerably, and during the whole trip we did not see one of these friendly birds. Stoats and weasels were blamed for the regrettable diminution in number of these native birds.

When still about six miles from the bay, we were thrilled to hear the thunder of the surf, which spurred us on afresh. Although travelling through this country was a constant delight, the coast was really our Mecca. We reached Awarua or Big Bay just before noon, and brilliant sunshine and the roar of the surf greeted us when we came out of the bush. The Red Hills were still clearly visible with their red base and snow on the higher slopes. ALONG THE BEACH We lunched in the Big Bay Hut and then set off on the 12 miles to Martin s Bay. After crossing the Awarua River we came upon a large crayfish stranded in the wet sand and, to our surprise, it proved to be still alive but we decided against adding it to our provisions in case it was suffering from some disease. Walking along the wet sand was very pleasant but it soon became so hot that I was glad to mount Mary and jog lazily along. Riding has one big advantage over walking in thai one has more time to look around. This was where we first saw rata trees in full bloom, which clearly shows the mildness of the climate on the west coast. After rounding the point we left Big Bay behind and, just as the setting sun had given the sea a golden sheen we came upon the full glory of the Hollyford river. Wide placid water flowing silently into the sea, and reflecting streaky red clouds, provided the most beautiful sight of the many we saw. Following' the river we found it flows along the beach behind a bank of high sandhills, and finds its way into the sea at the 'most southern end of Martin’s Bay. Davey’s Hut at Martin’s Bay is situated on the bank of the Hollyford river and is the largest of the huts we visited. Still another fine morning greeted us next day and the beauty of the river, with its serene sweep of water, was a thing to dream about. Numerous black swan were dotted here and there on the river and tuis were very plentiful around the hut. About midday we left in the boat to row over to the old McKenzie homestead, which was built of white pine by Mr Hugh McKenzie and his brother. The timber, however, became borer infested and the house is now little better than a ruin. Going up the channel to the lagoon we speared some fresh-water flounders and these provided us with several delectable meals. Again, in the lagoon, the reflections of bush and mountains in the still water were very beautiful. Here, too, we saw teal, grey and Paradise ducks, more black swans, a bittern, and some pukekos flying awkwardly over the swampy ground. A solitary kingfisher brought to mind W. H. Davies’s poem about this lovely bird. MAGNIFICENT SUNSET That afternoon we walked around the beach to the hut where stores are landed from the Matai. Rowing back in the evening was very pleasant and, after reaching Davey’s Hut, we saw another magnificent sunset reflected in the Hollyford river. We spent the next morning lazily basking in the sun while Mr Gunn busied himself making bread and in numerous other jobs. In the afternoon we rowed up river to another lagoon and there discovered a colony of teal duck. This was where we found a small tree with glossy, dark, serrated leaves and small purple flowers, afterwards identified as the hutu, a native tree. After returning to the hut we cleaned out and packed in readiness for an early start next morning on the trip up Lake McKerrow. Rain fell during the early hours of the morning and scattered showers continued after we had risen. There was a head wind down the lake but, garbed in oilskin leggings and capes, we packed into the boat and Mr Gunn commenced his long row of 14 miles up the lake. Because of the wind we hugged the south shore of the lake and so were able to see the full beauty of the vegetation. Because of the mist, though, we missed the promised fine

view of Mount Tutoko from this lake. The deserted site of Jamestown on the opposite shore was pointed out to us. Although rain was still falling there was a certain strange beauty about the lake, with long streamers of mist around the dark hills. The trees and fems along the shore were very interesting, while the numerous kowhai trees made us wish to be there when they are in flower. As we approached the head of the lake the rain eased off, the sky became lighter, and by the time we left the boat the sun was shining again.

After a late lunch at McKerrow Hut ; we started on the six-mile walk to : the Pyke Hut. Darkness overtook us ! before reaching the Pyke river which ; we had thought of wading across. Mr ' Gunn, however, decided the river was : too high and I was thankful not to have to venture into the water in the ■ dark. A very long “half mile” on a ■ rough and stony track brought- us to I the chair across the river where only ■ one could cross at a time. Because we j had not been over before, we asked Mr Gunn to go first so he would be there to help us to land. It was certainly hard work pulling on the cable, especially as there was only a very round stone on which to stand, but the | actual crossing was not as bad as we had feared. Being suspended between heaven and earth in the dark gave one an eerie feeling , and the wind over the river was bitterly cold, but I was too intent on pulling with all my might to be afraid of falling out. WITH BELLE AGAIN The crossing having been made without any mishaps we pushed on to the Pyke Hut where Belle was so pleased to see us that she tried to follow us inside. After a very enjoyable hot meal we went to bed early as the next day was to be also a long one. It was our good fortune to have still another fine morning with a slight southerly wind. Because of having strained a tendon in my leg I rode all day, and was very glad I had already had some riding as Belle behaved very temperamentally. On the slightest provocation, and often without any excuse at all, she would suddenly shy and also became possessed of a perverse desire to leave the track and strike out on her own line. Riding her that day was not exactly a rest cure, but was certainly better, and quicker, than walking would have been. '

The track soon brought us to the Hollyford river again and some fine views of Mounts Madeline and Alice were seen through breaks in the bush. We lunched at Hidden Falls Hut and then pushed on as we wanted to send a telegram announcing our return before five o’clock. Because of this we had reluctantly to refuse a proffered cup of tea at the surveyors’ and soon after reached Deadman’s Hut, where the dogs gave us a deafening welcome. Mr McKenzie was surprised to see us back so soon as he thought the wind would have been too strong on Lake McKerrow to permit u§ to reach the head. After a pleasant evening recounting some of our experiences and planning future trips, we were glad to turn in early, feeling sad that such a happy holiday was so near the end.

The morning brought the unpleasant realization that we had to return to town instead of setting forth for another day’s journey through the bush. There had been a heavy fall of snow the previous night, and the bush "in the Eglinton was looking most picturesque, but nothing could console us for having to leave behind the beauty of the Lower Holly ford. We decided it had been an ideal holiday and one that would bear frequent repetition.