Kitchencraft

Southland Times, Issue 23856, 29 June 1939, Page 15

Kitchencraft

THE ART OF MAKING SPONGE CAKES By SARAH The chief difficulty in making true sponge cakes, that is those which contain .no shortening, is to get the egg whites well mixed with the other ingredients without at the same time stirring out the air in the beaten whites. It is the expansion of air which makes the cake light. If it is lost, the cake will be compact and heavy. On the other hand, if the egg whites are not well mixed with the other ingredients, the cake will be coarse, and of uneven texture. The knack then consists in being able to do such mixing with gentle movements. IMPORTANT FACTORS Cake flour and finely granulated sugar are especially desirable for use in making sponge cakes, for both contribute much towards lightness and tenderness. The size of egg is also an important factor. To obtain the best results, eggs used for sponge mixtures should be fresh and of medium size. If duck eggs are substituted for hen’s eggs use only half the quantity, or again two-thirds of the quantity, depending upon the size. The method of mixing all true sponge mixtures is as follows. Separate the yolks from the whites by giving the shell one sharp crack with the back of a knife, inserting the thumbs into the crack so formed, and dividing the shell in two. Drain off the egg white into a basin by slipping the yolk from one shell half to the other. Drop the egg yolk into a separate bowl. If this method is followed the inexperienced cook will have no difficulty whatsoever in separating egg yolks from egg whites. MAINTAIN EVEN RATIO The flour is sifted and then measured. Returned to the sifter, and, if necessary, the raising agent, added. At this point also, if desired, one may add cocoa, cinnamon, spice, and so on. If, however, the recipe does not call for the addition of such flavourings, one may incorporate them, but some of the flour must be omitted. For example, if one desires to add two tablespoons of cocoa, do so by all means, but remember to omit or take out two tablespoons of flour. By so doing the ratio of wet to dry ingredients is kept constant, and one is more certain of success. Beat the egg yolks with a rotary beater till they are thick and lemon-

coloured. Add the sugar gradually, beating thoroughly between each addition. Continue to beat till the mixture becomes very thick and pale lemon in colour. Sometimes difficulty is experienced in using the rotary beater towards the end of this stage. If this happens use a whisk. The consistency of the mixture is correct if one can form aw S by lifting some of the prepared mixture in a spoon and dropping it on to the surface of the ingredients. This stage can be reached more rapidly if the basin containing the egg yolk and sugar mixture is stood in a bowl of hot water while beating. THE ART OF MIXING At this stage a sponge mixture cannot be over-beaten, but now the tricky part of mixing a sponge begins. Add essences if required to the egg yolk and sugar mixture. Add a pinch of salt to the egg whites, and beat with a whisk till they are stiff but not dry. A greater, volume is obtained if an egg whisk is used in place of a rotary beater. , , The flour is then folded into the first mixture by tipping the bowl slightly toward the right hand and with the bottom of the wire egg whisk held near and parallel to the side of the bowl, gently cutting down through the mixture. As the bottom of the bowl is approached gradually shift the position of the egg whisk'until it is brought along parallel at the bottom. Then as the opposite side of the bowl is approached, again shift the position of the whisk, so that as it is brought up it is parallel to that side. When the whisk comes to the surface turn it upside down so that it faces the bottom of the bowl At the same time carry it across to the other side of the bowl, holding it just above the surface of the mixture, and moving it gently so as to avoid snapping the mass of material clinging to it. This whole process takes only five seconds, and is the essential movement of folding.

AVOID ROUGH HANDLING As soon as all the flour has been mixed with the egg and sugar mixture the egg whites are folded in. and the process is continued until no flakes of egg white are visible. Continue for one minute longer. If the folding is gently done there is no particular danger of over-mixing in any reasonable period of time, but rough handling even for a short time is dangerous. Turn the sponge mixture into prepared cake tins. Tins may be prepared in either of two ways. The bottom and sides of the tin are greased with lard and then slightly floured, or in the second method, the bottom of the tin is lined with greased grease-proof paper and the sides are greased and slightly floured. Some people prefer to use an equal quantity of castor sugar and flour instead of all flour for dusting purposes. COOK AT LOW TEMPERATURE Sponge cake should, of course, be cooked immediately, otherwise the enclosed air, which has been so carefully incorporated with the egg, sugar and flour, will escape. Also on account of the large proportion of eggs they contain, sponge cakes must be cooked at a low temperature if they are to be tender. Remember that high temperatures toughen protein. A sponge cake is cooked when the cake shrinks slightly awav from the sides of the tin. If the cake is an exceedingly light and tender one, do not remove immediately from the tin, but turn upside down on to a cake cooler, and remove from the tin only when it has cooled and stiffened to a point when it will not collapse when handled. It is as well to be warned that the term “sponge cake” is often used not in the true sense of the word. Methods of mixing, therefore, may differ slightly. I am giving examples of this during the week, but follow the method given, work quickly, fold according to directions, and bake immediately at the correct temperature. Do not open the oven door till the cake is nearly cook-

ed (25 minutes), and I am sure that the finished product will be a pleasant surprise.