THE COOL GLASSHOUSE

Southland Times, Issue 23796, 19 April 1939, Page 15

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE

Mildew and rust will soon rob chrysanthemums of their foliage. Before taking them indoors spray the foliage thoroughly on the upper and under surfaces with liver of sulphur, using a quarter of an ounce to each gallon of water. Ventilators should be left open day and night. Only close them in the event of heavy frost or storm. Close conditions are conducive to the rapid spread of milder and rust in chrysanthemums.

As primulas are developing their flower buds regular applications of liquid manure will prove beneficial. Fresh cow manure and soot is best and should be used when a light brown colour. Fuchsias now past flowering may be stored in a cool, airy, frost-proof shed and kept dry during winter.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

Gather all fallen leaves and store them carefully. They contain the most valuable source of plant food. When properly stacked with soil layer by layer they soon decompose to form a fine mould.

Lawns should receive a final mowing and where flat weeds are seen give a heavy dressing of sulphate of ammonia, through which an equal quantity of sand is mixed to increase the bulk and facilitate spreading. Complete plans for ground alterations. This is the time for alterations, making new gardens, renovating old ones and draining. Ground which has just been broken and on which it is intended to grow lawns should be sown down in autumn oats, which may be turned in as green manure and, finally, prepared for sowing down in spring. Lime serves as a tonic to the soil. Its generous application is strongly recommended. By its cleansing and purifying agencies it rids the soil of pests, makes it sweeter and, by liberating plant foods, enriches the soil. Sweet peas if sown now will produce flowers in late spring and early summer. Allow at least six inches between the plants and ensure that the soil is deeply dug and heavily enriched. . Layers of border carnations now well rooted and severed from the parent plant may be set out in their permanent flowering quarters.

VEGETABLE GARDEN

Earth up celery plants that are big enough for blanching. . Though advisable in practice, paper is not always used, but be careful to keep soil out of the hearts of the plants. Broad beans can still be sown. Choose heavy soil and be sure the site has been well limed.

Cut out the tops of asparagas as soon as they begin to wither. Apply a dressing of fertilizer and dig it in between the rows. Sprinkle some coarse salt on the loose surface, then place a good layer of well-rotted stable manure between the rows to suppress weed growth. If seaweed is available use it in preference to salt.

Seedlings of cabbage and cauliflowers are now available and may be freely planted, more especially on ground previously used for potatoes. Herbs such as mint, thyme, sage and marjoram may now he planted and if the coarse growths of parsley are removed a crop of young fresh leaves will result.

Pay attention to winter greens. Draw a little soil against the stems to afford protection and provide good channels to carry off surplus water. Dead or yellowing leaves should be constantly removed. Turnips of the Golden Ball, Orange Jelly or White Stone type may still be sown. Garden swedes are best left until after heavy frosts, which affords them extra flavour.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

Suckers detached from old clumps of raspberries may now be planted in their permanent quarters. Burn any surplus material not required for planting. Established clumps will benefit if manure is now dug in about them. Rhubarb should now be lifted, divided and replanted. It is only lifted once in a period of years and should, therefore, only be planted on ground thoroughly trenched and heavily manured.

Strawberry runners that are sufficiently rooted may still be planted. It is a good plan to put in a new bed each year and discard any that are over two years old.

Grape vines from which fruit is now removed should have lateral growths cut back half way. Mealy Bug will be in evidence about the joints, but is readily removed by painting with methylated spirits.

WHAT TO SEE IN THE GARDENS

Most vivid and startling of all colours at present are the flowering cherries, rowans and sumach, of which the latter undoubtedly surpasses all others for fiery brilliance. Unfortunately the sumachs do not enjoy public confidence because among their relatives are species which are highly poisonous, such as Rhus toxicodendron, the American Poison Ivy, Rhus vernicifera, the Japanese lacquer tree and Rhus venenata, the poison elder. Neither the brilliant fiery crimson sumach nor the rich plum-coloured Rhus cotinus atropurpureum, to my knowledge, are poisonous and both are deserving of a place of prominence in any garden. In big gardens they should be planted in groups. The Stags Horn Sumach, R. typhina, a native of Eastern North America, is one of the handsomest of the species.

for added to its finely-coloured fruit clusters the leaves acquire rich shades of orange, red and purple. Big specimens immediately to the west of the Feldwick Gates, Queen’s Park, should be noted.