MOUNTAINS OF THE SOUTH

Southland Times, Issue 23793, 15 April 1939, Page 14

MOUNTAINS OF THE SOUTH

Climbs And Journeys In The Southern Alps

UNCLIMBED NEW ZEAL. Allen and Unwin, Ltd.,

IND. By John Pascoe. George London. Price 16/- net.

The mountains of the South Island are the proudest natural feature of New Zealand. Ever since Samuel Butler explored the upper Rakaia valley and attempted to find a pass to the West Coast, the ranges have been a challenge to sheepmen, exployers, surveyors and climbers. For most people they occupy the horizon, stimulating a desire t owander among their valleys, or arousing the vaguer impulse that can be satisfied by long gazing from the plains. To the young men of the mountaineering clubs, however, they are a magnificent field for alpine enterprise. Many peaks are still unclimbed; others have succumbed to single attempts, or to rare invasions, but are still formidable when the nor’-west storm cloud shows dark above the skyline. Some are so difficult to access that the journey to their lowest slopes is in itself an adventure and an achievement. All but a few are beyond the tourist routes and much be reached on foot by climbers with 601 b swags on their shoulders. Weather and seasonal changes give these joumys an infinite variety of experience. THE CANTERBURY RANGES In an important and most readable book John Pascoe tells the story of the Canterbury ranges. He is himself a climber of reputation whose frequent raids on the inner fastnesses of the Southern Alps have provided him with first-hand knowledge which he has been able to use to advantage in filling the gaps of topographical surveys. There is evidence in these pages that he has a natural sense of locality and direction; he is also a photographer who has learned to understand the value of the camera in mapping out new country. And finally-although he is modestly silent on these points—he appears to have the physical stamina, the mental balance and unfailing cheerfulness which are essential characteristics of the mountaineer. He describes his own journeys and feats with a matter-of-fact attention to detail. There are no purple passages, although it is obvious that the panoramas unfolded from a conquered summit mean much to him. No doubt it would be possible to

find quite a number of reasons why men continue to climb mountains. The satisfaction of physical effort and skill may be one. The pleasure of an adventure shared with congenial companions may be another. But for even the toughest climber there is a final value, attainable in the moments that bring him to the peak, about which he must remain inarticulate. It is significant that in the writings of John Pascoe and his club-mates (quoted in one or two cases from club journeys) there are references to the perception of beauty, but no attempts to enlarge upon them with a forced eloquence. The mountains bestow, among other gifts, a sense of proportion. DIFFICULT ROUTES The routes followed by Mr Pascoe and his club-mates have taken him at different times to the peaks and passes of the Waimakariri and Wilberforce valleys, to the Mathias valley (a transalpine crossing through difficult country), tc the mountainous area beyond the headwaters of the Rakaia, to a crossing of the Whitcombe Pass, to a first ascent of Mount Evans, and to numerous other journeys and climbs including an eventful trip up the Perth valley. Although he admits the perils and attractions of the Mount Cook region, Mr Pascoe prefers the_remoter slopes of the Mid-Southern “Alps. “In my opinion,” he writes, “greater adventure, if less technical difficulty, lurks in the ranges which sweep the skylines of the Rakaia, Rangitata, Whitcombe and Perth valleys. And I know that the toughness of a good mountain should be judged in terms of inaccessibility, endurance required to reach the foot of the objective, as well as to gain it, exposure to weather and lack of huts, quite apart from technical problems, which are of course an essential factor in determining the status of any peak.” It appears from some of the passages in this book that the climber in these regions must learn to master the rapid rivers. There are real dangers to be encountered when the waters rise quickly, and in Westland there are fearsome and impassable gorges which turn the traveller towards the drudgery and hazards of the bush. Even in crossing the smaller mountain streams (where the sound of tumbling boulders gives ominous warning that the current is swift) it is necessary to use a rope and the co-operation of three men to ensure complete safety. USEFUL DETAILS Other dangers lurk in the ice-fields, on rocky slopes and in the chance of benightment in bad weather. Mr Pascoe gives useful advice to new climbers. He writes entertainingly of huts and keas, and devotes a knowledgeable

chapter to the naming of the peaks—a process which in the past has sprinkled the map with some ugly and unsuitable words. Other sections are devoted to the history of the high country, to the men who first broke through its bush, crossed its rivers and found passable routes through the wilderness. There is an account of some relief expeditions, an interesting chapter on Samuel Butler’s Canterbury sojourn, an dsome scattered notes on equipment. Special mention should be .made of the photographs, from Mr Pascoe’s own camera, which illustrate the book. All are good; there are some remarkably fine panoramas of country which has probably never before been caught through a lens; and one or two, snatched during an incident or moment on the mountains, are surely unique in alpine photography in New Zealand! There can be no doubt that this book will be widely read, not only by those who have travelled some of the routes and climbed a mountain described in its pages, but by many others who, knowing that the peaks are not for them, can respond none the less to the magic of their influence. “Unclimbed New Zealand” is a valuable contribution to the literature of travel and adventure in this country.