Leeks

Southland Times, Issue 23305, 15 September 1937, Page 12

Leeks

Leeks will grow on practically a.l soils, provided these are deeply dug. They prefer well-drained loam, for such a soil can retain moisture without becoming sodden. Large leeks or those raised for exhibition are grown in a trench 9in to 12in deep, and any farmyard or other organic manure that is used is buried in the bottom of the trench a few days before planting. About 3in of good soil should be placed on top ot the manure, thus leaving the trench about 6in deep. These trenches are usually made about 18in apart from centre to centre, leaving a distance of 12in from trench to trench after they have been dug. The plants themselves are put out 12in apart in trenches. The main requirement of this crop is farmyard manure, although a little poultry manure may be used as a topdressing; it should be applied- along the rows at loz to the square yard when the first earthing-up is carried out. One ounce of sulphur of potash and ?oz of superphosphate a yard run may be applied once a month. Nitrate of soda may also be given a fortnight after each of these dressings at the rate of goz a yard run. These artificial stimulants are suitable for leeks grown on the flat and those raised in trenches. When the plants are removed from the frames or pots, they should be taken out carefully so as not to break the roots. If the roots are damaged it is necessary to reduce the foliage by a quarter or half, according to the extent of root damage. All through the season thorough waterings may be given, for leek roots should never be allowed to dry. The exhibitor will probably syringe his plants at the end ot a hot day and give them applications of liquid manure from time to time. There is no need for leeks to be put out in trenches, for they may be grown in rows 12 inches apart, the plants being set 8 inches away from each other in the rows. Holes 9in deep should be made with a dibbler and the plants dropped in. The holes need not be filled in, as the roots soon get a hold, especially if a little water is poured into the holes when planting. Another method is to make the drills 9in apart and 6in deep, and to put the young leek plants out in these Bin distant. Whichever way leeks are planted, regular hoeing is necessary throughout the year. If any flower stems appear, these should be nipped out immediately and from time to time, as the plants develop, soil should be drawn around the stems to blanch them. Most people start blanching about three weeks after planting, and continue to bring loose soil up to the plants regularly at fortnightly intervals. The keen exhibitor may use stiff tubes of brown paper to prevent the soil from actually touching the stems. . Those who have not yet bought their plants may care to try Monarch, with dark green leaves and enormous stems; it is one of the best-flavoured varieties. Walton Mammoth, an early variety, has a mild and agreeable flavour, and Prizetaker is perhaps the best leek for exhibition purposes. —“Popular ’ Gardening,” London.

Oriental Poppies Oriental poppies are among the plants which may be lifted and divided at the present time. It gives them a better chance to get settled and to bloom in the early summer (writes “Lorna,” in The Manawatu Daily Times). During November and December these large, showy poppies form one of the brightest features of our gardens. The old scarlet flower has for years been well known, but with the introduction of various other shades this family of plants has come more into favour. There are attractive pink shades, varying from the palest shell to salmon tints, while the deep crimson and wine shades are very handsome. Scarlet and orange shades there are in abundance, all with beautiful black anthers and embossed centres, some with dark blotches at the base of the petals and some without. There is a white variety which has dark purplish blotches and dark central zone, while a new double orange will prove an attraction as it becomes better known. Oriental poppies possess that clearness of colouring so essential where a fine display is needed, and are also very hardy border plants. They are most useful for grouping in the foreground of shrubberies and for grouping in front of delphiniums. The only fault one can find with them is their untidy appearance in summer, but this difficulty can be overcome by planting roots of perennial gypsophila among them, or if the soil does not suit these a few dwarf charm dahlias will do. In common with .other members of the poppy family, when using for room decoration, gather just as the buds are bursting, bruise the ends of the stems, as these are very hard, then either burn these ends in the fire or place in boiling water for a while. Gathered in this way they will last fully a week before dropping. The pink shades are delightful for vases when mixed with some prunus foliage. Dont’s For Rose Growers Don’t plant any particular variety because you admired the bloom at a show; it may be useless as a garden variety in many ways. Don’t fail to prepare the beds as well as possible before planting, not necessarily with the addition of a lot of manure, but dig thoroughly and break the ground up well. Don’t make the mistake of allowing manure to come in contact with the roots when planting, but mix it well with the soil below the roots.

Don’t overlook the importance of firm planting. If the soil is very wet get some fine, light, dry soil and use this about the roots, treading it firm. Don’t omit to cut back any broken or damaged roots. Fresh fibrous roots will be sent out from the clean cut. Don’t stake standard roses after planting, but place the stake in position before the roots are covered with soil and so avoid injury to the roots. Don’t plant roses when the soil is soaked with rain; heel the plants in temporarily. They may safely remain so for several weeks. Don’t crowd the plants. Allow at least two or three feet between them, according to variety.—The Taranaki Herald.