NO CHANCE OF SUCCESS

Southland Times, Issue 22918, 17 June 1936, Page 5

NO CHANCE OF SUCCESS

The Everest Party NEW AND SAFER ROUTE DISCOVERED SNOW PREVENTS ASCENT (United Press Assn.—Telegraph Copyright.) (Rec. 5.5 p.m.) London, June 15. A copyright message from Mr Hugh Ruttledge, leader of the British expedition which has abandoned its attempt on Mount Everest, at Camp One on Monday says that the expedition must now depart. Deep snow, everywhere, is rendering any further effort useless, although Mr F. S. Smythe and Mr P. Wyn Harris have discovered a route which will be of great value on a future occasion. Unhappily it has been made in a season in which Everest has not given the expedition a single chance. The seven climbers ascending the icefield on the west side of North Col were prevented from examining the upper slope by clouds. Already, then, there is evidence that the monsoon is so severe and the snow so deep that Everest is unconquerable this year. Mr Smythe and Mr Wyn Harris yesterday took advantage of a temporary lull and took a light camp to the point previously attained, just out of reach of the avalanches pouring off North Col. A rush of air from one nearly blew down their tent during the night. This morning they obtained a clear view of the slopes to the crest, and although the snow was too dangerous to make the ascent they are satisfied that given certain conditions a safe and more direct route could be made on that side. Lieutenant W. R. Smith-Windham and Mr Ruttledge, with porters, went up halfway on the icefield and formed a similar opinion. Regret Throughout Empire. Sir Percy Cox, chairman of the Mount Everest Committee, commenting on Mr Ruttledge’s telegram, says that the committee’s regret would be shared by Britons throughout the world, as the conquest o.’ Everest had become a national enterprise on which all hearts were set. The splendid composition and equipment of the expedition justified every hope as far as human agencies were concerned, but the early monsoon and the heavy snowfall, preventing the reoccupation of North Col, which was originally occupied with unusual ease a week ahead of schedule, produced impossible conditions which no previous expedition had ever suffered.

The committee is sending a message to Mr Ruttledge sympathizing with his lamentable ill-fortun.. and recognizing that no leadership or mountaineering skill could have averted the result, and congratulating the members of the party on emergin'- from critical experiences without casualty.