The Unconquerable Everest

Southland Times, Issue 22913, 11 June 1936, Page 4

The Unconquerable Everest

Man’s fifth attempt to stand on the summit of the world’s highest mountain has failed—but not ingloriously. Mr Hugh Ruttledge and the members of his party got close to their goal but were beaten by those two ruthless allies of Everest, wind and snow. When some 15 years ago the first Everest expedition was proposed an experienced mountaineer said: “It may take a dozen assaults, but final success is certain.” This view has never altered. Lives have been lost and severe hardships endured; yet successive repulses have not lessened man’s determination to conquer the mountain. When the first expedition set out alpinists were very doubtful whether men could live at altitudes above 25,000 feet, and whether even if they could sustain themselves at such heights, they would be able to survive the exertion of climbing. The experiences of the early expeditions gave rise to a belief that the assault would be successful if men were thoroughly fit and became acclimatized to the altitude. This view rather discounted other serious difficulties, but Mr Ruttledge learnt in 1933 that altitude was indeed the greatest obstacle to success. He took infinite pains when organizing the 1936 expedition to overcome as far as possible the deterioration in physique due to altitude. Numerous re-

ports jf the good health and buoyant spirits of the party have shown that his methods were successful. But none knew better than he the mountaineering obstacles to be encountered above 21,000 feet, the severity and violent changes of the weather in the Himalayas, and the extremely short season in which the ascent could be made. The bitterly cold air of Tibet, rushing southwards to the warm plains of India, produces violent winds which at times blow with hurricane force. Occasional lulls are succeeded without warning by tremendous gusts which are a very real danger to parties on the exposed north face. Until May 20 the cold on the upper part of the 1 mountain, is too severe for an - ascent to be made; and in a nor- ! mal year climbing is impossible ! after June 15. In the short per- : iod between these dates the climb- ’ ers have to make their assault, ' keeping a wary eye for the arrival ' of warmer air currents from the Bay of Bengal which bring the > monsoon. The monsoon over- ■ comes the north-west wind, but ’ this has the effect of allowing : deep deposits of snow to lie on the 1 north face; and when this hap- ‘ pens the mountain cannot be ! climbed. To the vagaries of the ! weather are added the menace of ■ avalanches and the danger of ice 1 faces breaking away without warning. It was the ferocity of 1 the north-west gales and the un- ■ timely arrival of the monsoon I that shattered the hopes of the ! 1936 expedition, and it was the sudden splitting of a snowfield which so nearly brought death to ■ two prominent members of the ' expedition, Mr Wyn Harris and Mr E. Shipton. The story of this year’s attempt has aroused keen interest and Mr Ruttledge’s disappointment will be shared by many who have eagerly followed the progress of his party. But the repulse he has suffered is not likely to deter him from making further attempts, for it is those who haye faced the dangers and received the severest buffetings i who are most determined to conquer the giant that defies them.