THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 22041, 14 June 1933, Page 12

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(By

J. A. McPherson.)

The Greenhouse.

Chrysanthemums are now past their best and can be cut over. Stand the pots outside in a cool frame; but protected from severe frosts and commence to take the basal cuttings. Insert the cuttings in boxes of sandy soil, give them a good watering and stand in a cool house or frame. See that air is admitted during the daytime and avoid excessive moisture which only brings on attacks of mildew and mould. Standard Fuchsias must 1 e pruned hard, back to the main stem and brought out into the greenhouse from their resting places. If mealy-bug is present, go over the plants with a brush dipped in a solution of soap and water to which has been added a little Blackleaf 40. There is no occasion to hurry the plants into growth for some time yet. Begonias should all be stored away in boxes of dry soil or sand. The Bride’s Blossom (Deutzia gracilis) is a splendid shrub for forcing under glass. Lift good strong plants, pot them into tins or large pots and stand in a warm greenhouse. In early spring they will be covered with white blossom. It is too cold and wintry to attempt the repotting of ferns. Leave this work over till the days begin to lengthen and there is a little more heat in the sun. The Vegetable Garden. Large headed cabbage will not burst with the frosts if the plants are eased over to one side in order to protect the tops. Look over all crops of stored onions as there are generally a few on the soft side which if not removed will start decay through the whole batch. Lift and replant rhubarb into good soil using only strong vigorous crowns. On wet days commence to box up tubers of potatoes, eyes upwards, into shallow trays. Stand them in the open shed or under a hedge. Give plenty of light; but protect from frosts. Remember that certified seed gives larger crops free from prevailing diseases and good sprouted sets will mean a healthy and sturdy topped crop. Trench all vacant ground, throwing it up rough to the action of the weather.. See that all drains are clear and in wet localities throw the soil up into long narrow beds to avoid a shallow water-table. A well-drain-ed soil is several degrees wanner than a water-logged soil. Lift and divide Chives, they are most useful in early spring when onions are scarce. They like a light but rich soil in full sunshine. In small vegetable gardens these plants fonn an attractive edging along any pathway. Cleanliness must be rigorously practised in the vegetable garden. Any diseased crops should be burnt and all rubbish and leaves placed on the compost heap. Alternating a layer of soil with each layer of refuse helps in the decomposition of the heap. A little lime can be sprinkled through the heap as the process of stacking is being carried out. The Flower Garden. This and next month are very busy ones in the garden provided weather permits of planting. Lift and replant all worn out herbaceous borders, adding new soil if possible, for most herbaceous plants are gross feeders. Dig in plenty of well-rotted manure and then scatter some bone-meal on the surface at the rate of two ounces to the square yard. Keep a sharp look-out for attacks of sparrows on primroses and Polyanthus. The birds have a habit of destroying the early blooms and must be frightened away by placing strands of black cotton through the beds and supported on twigs about two inches above the plants. Sparrows are also destructive to carnation plants and may often be observed tugging away at the young growth in the centre of each shoot. If the soil conditions are good commence the planting of roses. Remember that the union of the plant to its rootstock must be buried two inches below the surface. If this is not done there will be no sturdy bottom growth and in the heat of summer the union is liable to split and crack open, resuting in the gradual death of the plant. The distance to plant varies according to the type of growths, some roses are very vigorous while others are very shy. Two feet between the plants is a good average distance and this permits of under planting with Violas or Pansies. In the actual operation of planting, the roots must not be turned up at the tips but spread out evenly in the hole and the soil gently worked into position about them. If the soil is sticky use a little prepared soil which has been kept slightly on the dry side. The soil should be placed firmly in position but not rammed tightly (especially if it is wet) which would have the effect of excluding the necessary air so essential to the growth of the soil bacteria.

One should always include the following varieties if it is a first attempt at rose-growing: Shot Silk (as its name implies), Golden Gleam (yellow), Betty Uprichard (orient red), James Gibson (red), Mrs H. Stevens (white), Mdme. Butterfly (flesh pink). Golden Emblem (golden yellow), Lord Castlereagh (very dark red), Margaret McGredy (geranium lake), Marion Cran (yellow overlaid with cherry cerise), and Dame Edith Helen (glowing pink).

Newly planted roses should not be pruned till August when growth has commenced in earnest, and then the plants should be cut severely back. Severe priming will give vigorous growth able to support good large flowers. A start can be made with the planting of trees and shrubs. Evergreens for screens or for a background and deciduous shrubs in front of them. There are flowering cherries, Prunus and Apples which not only delight the eye in spring, but give added attraction to the garden in autumn with their richly coloured fruits and foliage. A good flowering apple with large fruits is John Downing, while J. H. Veitch is a splendid pink flowered Cherry. Prunus Moreri is the double-flowered plum and Prunus mume the flowering apricot.

Among the shrubs one can chose various Cotoneasters and Berberis with their wealth of berries in the autumn. Cotoneaster horizontalis will cling to a sunny wall, C. buttata is good and C. pannosa even better. Berberis Wilsonae and B. Pratti will never fail to give a wealth of berries while from the many new hybrids one can choose Berberis ferox, B.X. comet, and B.X. firefly. Do not neglect the sweet little Spiraeas more especially S. Thunvegrii and S. Van Houteii, both good shrubs. Then there are the Magnolias of which M. stellate is a gem. Viburnum Carbesii and V. fragrans are both sweetly scented and last a long time in bloom. Philadelphus (mock-orange) has several good species to chose from and the Weizelias will give bloom even in the poorest soil.

And finally, do not overlocir the dwarf Conifers which give a touch of dignity to the garden in the depth of winter. Plant now in earnest and do not , harbour useless shrubs when better ones are available. ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. “Rockery,” Otautau.—Specimens for- , warded are: (1) Alpine Phlox, (2) Ver- [ onica officinalis. You say number one ; has white flowers; then if you are [ ordering other aplines include the pink ■ variety of this plant called Phlox vivid. . It is a gem [ I WATER LILIES FOR THE t HOME GARDEN ! Water lilies! The word itself is full of ; beauty to the flower lover; and how ' many hundreds of people aspire to pos- ‘ sess a pond, only to be checked by the ! idea that the trouble and cost entailed in the building are too great! However, with a little ingenuity, careful planning, and a lively imagination, the ideal ’ water garden may be constructed at a 1 small cost, in which all the delicate j pastel shades may be shown to advan- ' tage. The shades range from pure chaste white through the lemons to rich saf- ’ dron, from pale shell pink to deep rose, and through pale lilacs even to blue, ' mauve and violet. These are truly mag--1 nificent blossoms, flaunting their delic--1 ate cups of beauty and grace against a ' background of glossy green. In constructing a lily pond, the first things to be decided upon are the size and shape of the finished pool. Water ' lilies may be grown in tubs and tanks, 1 or else in some larger receptacle, such ! as a pond or pool built in the garden, according to the individual tastes and ’ requirements, so it is only a question of ' determining whether a conventional ' rectangle or an irregular outline will be , more suitable. Consider the Position. ! As a lily pond will be the most beau--1 tiful spot in the garden, its position 1 must receive the utmost care and atten- ’ tion, for if the pool is to be in the ■ centre of a large square lawn, it will ' be more fitting to construct the formal ■ shape. If, on the other hand, there is no particular design or arrangement involved. the informal irregular pond is infinitely more beautiful. Regardless of 1 the shape, it is the best plan to form the ' pool in the sun, where it will receive ■ the full light, as the success of water lilies and aquatic plants depends greatly on this factor. The ideal average depth of water in a pond is from two feet to three feet, therefore the lilies planted in boxes 1 must be elevated to the correct height. The side walls of the pond should be about six inches in thickness, preferably tapering to eight inches at the bottom. This should be six inches also. Very good results are obtained by making a “form” for the pond in the earth by first staking out the required shape, and, secondly, carefully digging a trench, the exact depth and width ot the walls, all around the outside of the shape. In this type of construction, it must be carefully borne in mind that the earth walls of the trench are to serve as the forms for the sides of the pool; consequently, care should be taken to make the excavation smooth and straight. , After the trench for the sides nas been dug, the next step is to fill the excavation with a mixture of stones, brick and concrete, mixing it well to prevent the presence of air bubbles. This should be left to harden for two or three days before a thin coating 01 cement is applied to the surface, and all crevices filled up. Over the bottom, which has been dug out to the correct depth, a similar mixture of stones and concrete is spread. This is also coated with cement to prevent any leaks from appearing. It will be found that with this simple type of pool a fresh coat ot cement will be needed annually, as the surface may crack. Water Supply. A lily pond does not require a fountain in it, nor does it need a supply of running water; in fact, lilies do best where the water is warm and still. There is no need to refill the pond if oxygenating plants and such creatures as water snails, fish or frogs are used to keep the water clear and pure. The process of filling a pond is extremely simple, for the garden hose is an admirable instrument for this purpose. As a few aquatic plants, such as Japanese irises, beautiful reeds and other delightful water lovers, are most desirable to produce the finished effect in the pool, several pockets made of rocks and cement can easily be built on the edges. Earth and leaf mould are placed in these pockets, and the plants left to cover the rocks and trail over the water. .... , In considering the finishing ot the pool around the top, any simple edging, such as a coping, stones, bricks or tiles, the latter being available in various delicate shades, are extremely suitable. Planting the Lilies. When the pool is completed, it should be filled with clean water for a fortnight in order to clear away any alkaline substance which may be detrimental to the plants. After the time has elapsed, the water may be syphoned off and a fresh quantity supplied. The plants, however, need some soil in which to grow, and it has been proved that a mixture of three parts fibrous loam with one part of well-rotted cow manure is satisfactory, and gives good results, while a heavy clay soil, if composted with manure three months before, gives best results. The lilies should be set with the crown just even with the surface of the soil, which is then covered with one inch of gravel to keep the water clean. About nine square feet of pool area is necessary for one plant in a small pond. In September, when the roots are just commencing to grow, divide or plant out the lilies, for, by doing so when growth is beginning, the roots are saved from rotting. In concluding, a. list of a few of the more popular and less expensive varieties for the amateur gardener will not be amiss. Among the pure whites, the Gladstone and Tetragona are perhaps most outstanding, the former being large, while the latter is small but fragrant. The pinks are exceedingly delicate, the most beautiful being Caroliniana, a lovely flesh shade combined with delightful fragrance; Lusitania and Marliacea carnea, both prolific growers with large blossoms; and, lastly, W. B. Shaw, the best rose variety. Among the yellow, orange and copper shades, Comanche (hardy, copper-red), Moo.rii (yellow), Robinsoni and Paul Hariot are the favourites. Atro Purpurea (large red flowers), Attraction (large granite blooms), Meteor (large, rich red flowers), and William Falconer, (deep red) are the best; while Stellata is easily the most popular species of the blues. Given a reasonable amount of care, any of the above-mentioned varieties of water lily can be. grown successfully by all amateur gardeners with the minimum of expenditure.