THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 21729, 15 June 1932, Page 12

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(By

J. A. McPherson).

The Greenhouse.

The main batch of chrysanthemums is now finished so the plants can be cut down and the pots or tins stood outside. It is just a little early to take the main batch of cuttings except those of Louissa Pockett which take a long time to reach maturity. The cuttings are those sturdy little shoots which spring from the base of the plants. They should be taken carefully off and inserted in boxes of sandy soil. See that the soil is firm and stand the boxes in a sheltered frame or very cool greenhouse. Chrysanthemum cuttings do not require heat to root them. Single and decorative varieties may be grown from cuttings or the old plants split.up at a later date and repotted in fresh soil. Sow seeds of Begonias in gentle heat. If they are kept moving fairly steadily the young plants will give a good display in summer. The Flower Garden. Very little can be done in this section of the garden during wet weather. If the ground is walked upon to any extent much harm will be done. There are however quite a number of odd jobs to carry out if the weather is fine overhead, chief among these being the grading and gravelling of pathways, the erection of trellis work and pergolas, and the repairing of dividing fences. Garden seats may require an overhaul and wheelbarrows and tools placed in order. Unfortunately many gardeners leave the repairing and sharpening of lawn mowers till spring, consequently with a rush of orders the repairs may not be executed in time before the lawns spring into growth. If the machines require overhaul, now is the time to have the-work done. When ground conditions improve continue with the planting of roses. Soil for roses must be very deeply worked for unlike other plants they do not form a mass of fibrous roots near the surface. Poor land must be trenched and stable manure or compost added to the trenches. A few days before planting it is advisable to work in plenty of wood ashes and a supply of blood and bone meal to the top spit. AU roses must be planted firmly and with the junction of the stock to the rose proper buried about two inches below the surface. This permits of healthy growth springing from this junction during summer growth that wiU ultimately form the largest portion of the bushes. It is unnecessary to prun newly planted roses at this stage; better by far to leave them alone till the beginning of August when each bush can have the shoots cut hard back to within three or four eyes of the ground. Nothing is gained by leaving weak growth on young bushes for such growth will never produce good blooms and also stops good dormant eyes lower down from pushing into growth. No bulbs should he out of the ground now, early varieties are already pushing their way through. When priming shrubs consider their flowering period first. If they bloom in the spring they should not be touched otherwise most of the bloom bear-, ing shoots will be cut off, thus leading to a paucity of flowers. All spring flowering shrubs should be pruned immediately after they finish flowering so as to permit of the maximum, amount of growth before next flowering season. Choice of Shrubs. The choice of shrubs for any garden depends largely on the garden layout and above all things the amount of shelter available. In exposed positions and those bleak corners facing south or west only the hardiest of evergreens can be grown. If exotic evergreens fail then one must plant Senecios, Veronicas and Olearias or if colour is required the varigated Veronica, Broadleaf, and Senecio rotundifolia (muttonbird scrub). The more sheltered portions of the garden can be planted with a selection from the following. Magnolias, especially the dainty little M. stellata a wonderful plant when in full bloom. Philadelphus or Mock Orange gives a wide range of species, perhaps the best being P. virginal and P. Lewisii. For a touch of blue in late summer it is best to plant Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles which never fails to produce heavy trusses of bright sky blue flowers. On dry or poor soils one cannot do better than plant a collection of Berberis, especially those giving good berries in winter. They are B. Prattii, B. Wilsonae B. brevipanniculata, B. Ferrox, B. sparkler and B. comet, the latter two being garden hybrids with wonderfully fruiting capacities. Camellias may be had in various varieties but are liable to damage in cold areas. Abelia floribunda is a dainty little shrub for small gardens, the purplepink bracts of the flowers giving a good touch of colour. Hydrangea Parsival is the deepest pink of the many varieties but must be protected from severe frost. Arbutus unedo (strawberry tree) besides being a hardy evergreen has handsome fruits. It is a native of the shores of Killamey. Buddleia Veitchiana of rampant growth produces racemes of lilac blue flowers. If pruned heavily each year it is kept in due bounds and flowers much better. Caryopteris masticonthus is a small shrub with blue flowers, one that is suitable for small gardens. Among the many Cistus will be found Cistus formosus producing a mass of yellow flowers, each petal having a black spot at the base. There are many species of Cistus, all of which are hardy and suitable for dry sunny positions. The White Broom is very accommodating and can be easily replaced with a smaller plant when it becomes too large. Collectors of newer varieties will delight in the variety Dorothy Walpole with wine coloured blooms and Lord Lamboume with red and buff coloured blooms. Daboecia is the Irish Heath and Calluna vulgaris the common heath both of which are very accommodating in soils free from lime. Garrya elliptica is favoured on account of its peculiar catkin-like flowers which open in early winter. It is an evergreen. Deutzia scabra is the Bride’s Blossom a pretty white flowering shrub which blooms in spring. A continuation of this list will be given next week. APPLICATION OF MANURES (Continued). Onions. All light bulky soot should be saved for this crop, then use three parts super, one part bonedust, two parts sulphate of potash and one part sulphate of ammonia. Apply at the rate of two ounces per yard of row. Nitra of Soda can be used as the crop comes well forward, at the rate of one ounce to four gallons of water. Cabbages, Cauliflower, Kale, etc. These need plenty of organic manures. Then use 4 parts super, 1 part nitrate of soda (or sulphate of ammonia) and 1 part sulphate of potash. Apply eight pounds to every forty square yards. In spring liquid manure as recommended for onions may be applied. Lettuce.. This crop requires plenty of nitrogen and above all things must be quickly grown. Apply 2 parts nitrate of soda, 4 parts super-and 1 part of

sulphate of potash, at the rate of eight pounds to every forty square yards. Liquid manure may be used in spring and consist of one ounce of nitrate of soda in four gallons of water. Carrots, Beet, Parsnips. All these must not have fresh organic manures in the ground on which they are sown. Use 2 parts super, 2 parts blood and bone meal, 1 part sulphite of potash. Apply two ounces per r uining yard of r °Peas and Beans. These crops must have plenty of lime worked into the soil. Use 4 parts super, 2 part bone meal, 1 part nitrate of soda and 2 parts sulphate of potash. Apply tw*. ounces per square yard of land. Fruit Trees. Use 3 parts super, 1 part bone meal, 1 part sulphate of ammonia and 1 part sulphate of potash. BULB STERILIZATION A NEW PROCESS. Should the experimental results obtained by the inventor prove practical on wider application, a new era for bulb growers appears to be at hand. Mr H. G. Longford, of Abingdon, a raiser and exhibitor of Narcissi and Tulips, has recently patented a process for sterilizing the bulbs of these subjects. The Longford process does away with the necessity for heat of any kind, thereby Claiming a three-fold benefit—(l) 1 economy in cost, (2) economy in operation and (3) elimination of the twin risks of damage to the bulbs by overheating, and ineffective results by insufficient heat. Further claims are that the crop of flowers for the season following the treatment will not be damaged or malformed, and perhaps most important of all, that the new process is suitable for the treatment of all kinds of bulbs, and effective in the destruction of resting fungus spores. These are wide claims, and if substantiated should prove of great value to the bulb industry. It is well-known that many soluble chemicals are effective both as fungicides and insecticides, even in very weak dilution, but in order to serve their purpose they must be brought into intimate contact with their objectives. Merodon, eelworm and fungi insinuate themselves deeply within their host bulbs, and the problem has been how to pursue them in these fastnesses without damage to the growing tissues of the plant. The Longford process has the merit of novelty in this endeavour. The bulbs or roots to be treated are placed in a vessel and covered with sterilizing solution; the vessel is then tightly sealed, and by means of a pump the air remaining in the vessel anc above the solution is exhausted to s pressure of approximately thirty pounds. The effect of this action is to withdraw the air lying locked within the bulbs. This air rises through the solution in the endeavour to maintain an atmospheric equilibrium, and is unable to return when normal atmospheric pressure is restored. The restoration of outside air pressure (equalling fifteen pounds per square inch) drives the sterilizing fluid into the empty interstices and minute capillaries, causing it to permeate all damaged or decayed tissue. No process of steeping or soaking will effect this object, as air imprisoned within the bulb forms an effective lock against the entrance of sterilizing agents. Experiment has demonstrated that eelworm in every part of the bulb was destroyed instantly with a weak solution of formaldehyde, and this substance is, of course, one of the most effective of well-known fungicides. As no heat process or thermostat is involved, the whole apparatus is capable of production in a cheap, simple and portable form suitable for private and market growers.—Gardeners’ Chronicle. Apply four pounds to each tree scattered round at least a foot from the main stem and well forked into the soil. Strawberries. Use 4 parts super, 2 parts bone meal, 1 part sulphate of ammonia and 1 part sulphate of potash. Apply two ounces per square yard and fork lightly in. Gooseberries, Currants and Raspberries. Use 4"parts super, 2 parts sulphate of potash and 1 part sulphate of ammonia. Apply at the rate of one pound per bush and fork lightly in. Asparagus. This crop requires plenty of nitrogenous manure, cow-dung if possible. Then use 4 parts sulphate of potash and 10 parts of common salt after the first cutting at the rate of one pound to forty square yards. ELECTRICITY IN THE GARDEN Sweden has now 300 electro-horti-cultural establishments and a special institute and laboratory for scientific research work. The use of electricity in horticulture and the successful experiments already made, open up a new epoch to the horticulturists and will make them increasingly independent of seasonal and climatic changes, acocrding to Professor Sven Oden, a leading Swedish expert of electro-horticulture. In this branch of research work Sweden now is the international leader, said the professor, thanks to energetic experimenting and to the generous assistance of the Government. In spite of the fact that Sweden is at present ice-bound and in the grip of an intense cold spell, there are homegrown luscious raspberries to be had at the Government experimental gardening headquarters near Stockholm. Summer flowers are there to be seen in full bloom, and the King on his Christmas table had fresh and delicious cucumber raised by electricity. Electricity is used partly for heating the earth and partly as a substitute for sunlight. The earth-heating problem has been definitely solved and proved to be economic in practical use. For instance, in the experimental garden of Homlingby, near the city of Gevle, 10,000 tulips, 1,500 lilies of the valley and 1,500 hyacinths were electrically raised in the month of January and the cost of the electric current used was found to amount to about 1 per cent, of the commercial value of the bulbs .

The use of electric lighting as a substitute for sunshine is still in the experimental stage and presents a more intricate problem owing to the great difference and varying sensitivity of the plants to different kinds of light, but here also important and highly promising results have been obtained, —Horticultural Advertiser, England,