THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 20665, 22 April 1929, Page 5

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

(By

J. A. McPherson.)

The Greenhouse. Attend to batches of Primula obconica by potting on young seedlings of the more advanced, and splitting up for repotting any large clumps. With the latter it will be necessary to watch the watering, and not over do it until the clumps have a firm hold of the new soil. All geranium cuttings should now be in boxes under cover. Old plants which have been lifted from the flower garden may be packed closely together in boxes of deep soil and given a very airy jiosition with practically no watering at all. In fact they will winter well in a frost proof shed if room cannot be found under glass or in cool frames.

Maidenhair ferns which have been used for pot plants in living rooms will benefit if taken to the greenhouse, the foliage cut off and only enough water given to keep the roots fresh. Towards early spring, young fronds will commence to appear, and they may then be repotted and brought quickly into good growth again. Increase fire heat as 1 weather becomes colder, and avoid too damp an atmosphere. Vegetables and Fruits.

Lift and store vegetables as they mature. Continue to earth up celery and leaks. Autumn sown Peas and Beans will appreciate a little soil drawn up round their necks. This assists to protect them and also supports them against heavy winds. Pay attention to green crops in a like manner by drawing a little soil up to support them. Winter and early spring cabbages and cauliflowers are making splendid headway this season and everything points to a plentiful supply. Keep an eye on seedling onions, weeding so that the" soil is little disturbed. Pests can be kept in check by dusting the plants with good soot. Collect apples and pears as they become fit for picking, storing only the best and soundest fruits. Mark any trees which are intended to be replaced, and as soon as other work in the garden has been attended to, commence to prepare for the planting of fruit trees by deep digging. Basic slag is a splendid autumn manure to work into the top spit of soil. If raspberries have not been pruned no time should be lost in cutting out all last season’s fruiting canes and tying up six to eight strong canes produced during the summer. It is important to cut out the old canes right down at ground level and remove all suckers from around the plants. If the ground is on the poor side a liberal dressing of well-rotted manure must be given to assist next season’s growth, while on the other hand, if the ground is rich in nitrogen, a light dusting of sulphate of potash to give quality to the fruit and sturdy growth will be found most useful.

Prune gooseberries by cutting out surplus growth, especially those long sappy shoots which often appear from the centre of the bushes. Open out the bushes so that it is a pleasure and not a torture to pick the berries next season. Then finally tip back the remaining shoots by cutting off about two to three inches of their tops. Root suckers also must be pulled out; but with the more recent method of propagating gooseberries, suckers of this type are seldom met with.

With regard to the pruning of currants it must be borne in mind that the Black Currant is pruned differently to the Red and White. The former produces its fruit on the young wood; that is, on the growths which have been produced during the summer just passed all that is necessary with Black Currants is to thin out the branches to permit light and air penetrating through to next season’s fruits; in such a case the oldest stems are cut right out and any that are rubbing against others removed. This is all the pruning necessary for Black Currants; but with Red and White Currants it will be noticed that they fruit on both the old and new wood so must therefore be treated differently. In the first place, however, cut out any dense growth or shoots rubbing together along with any soft sappy wood. Shorten back leading shoots by half their length, and complete the pruning by shortening back small side shoots growing away from the little fruiting spurs. Do not, however, mistake the fruiting spurs and cut them off. The propagation of small fruits from cuttings will be dealt with next week.

The Flower Garden. Bedding plants and annuals used for the summer display are, now finished blooming and preparations must be made for the planting out of bedding plants for the next spring. Thoroughly clear all beds and borders of spent plants and dig in liberal supplies of rotted manure. If it is intended to plant Narcissii and Tulips, the manure must be carefully placed well below the depth the bulbs are to be planted as otherwise harm will be done the bulbs. For ordinary plants such as Polyanthus, Wallflower and Forget-me-nots, etc., the manure need not, be placed deep. Should manure be unobtainable a dressing of blood and bone-meal worked into the surface will supply the nourishment needed. YVhere Stocks have been growing during the summer it will be necessary to add lime to the soil, especially if Wallflower are to be planted, since , both these subjects drain a large quantity of lime from the soil. Dahlias whose tops have been well frosted may safely be lifted and stored in a frost proof shed, dusting the tubers with a little flowers of sulphur to prevent any fungoid disease attacking them. Those in beds required for spring plants will have to be lifted in any case; but those growing in odd corners of the garden do not necessarily need lifting provided a little straw is used to keep the severe frosts away from them, unless of course, one wishes to increase any particular variety by division or by spring cuttings, then it will be advisable to lift them with the rest. •Spring Effects.

Every gardener is desirous of having effective spring displays; and by a little careful planning and planting, taking into consideration also the colours of the flowers, some very pleasing combinations arc obtained.

Here are a few suggestions which may be of assistance to readers. Small ribbon borders arc made at little cost by planting in rows the following. Polyanthus, Forget-me-nots, and Wallflower, or Bellis Daisy, Forget-me-nots and a double or treble row (close together) of such trumpet Narcissii as Emperor or Empress. Yet another effective ribbon border is made by planting Aubretia, Polyanthus, and Blood Red Wallflower. Even the snowy white Arabis alpina may be used instead of the Aubretia. Then for large beds I would advise planting Wallflower in a mass. The yellow varieties are very showy in themselves; but when the red shades are used it is best to mix yellow with them otherwise the beds appear too dull at a distance. Wallflower beds may be edged with the Bellis Daisy, Forget-me-nots or Polyanthus. Tulips of the Darwin type are splendid subjects for large beds and may be underplanted with Forget-me-nots. What could be finer than a bed of pink tulips raising their heads well above a sea of blue from the Forget-me-nots. Polyanthus do well when massed in beds or used as a ground work for Blood Red Wallflower. Then one may even plant Narcissii. through dark coloured Wallflower, a combination both pleasing and effective.

When it comes to Anemones and Ranuculus, the question arises as to whether the beds in which they arc planter! will again be required for summer bedding plants. If such is the case, I would advise

that both these subjects be placed as borders to the herbaceous border for there they can remain undisturbed, especially the latter, since it is really a late spring bloomer, and very often at its best just when summer plants are being bedded out. Cerastium that little white leaved rock plant makes useful ground work for Narcissii and Tulips. Hyacinthus are best in beds by themselves while the little Heavenly Blue (Muscari) or “Matchhead” as it is sometimes called is most useful for providing a ground work for spring flowering shrubs "such as dwarf Cherries and Azaleas. Carnations for Winter Bloom.

Though the carnation is essentially an out door plant, it is much cultivated for providing blooms during late winter. The plants should be potted into six-inch pots, firming the soil fairly hard, and placed in an airy portion of the greenhouse. On no account must the plants be coddled in a stuffy warm atmosphere. Rust attacks the foliage during the crowing season; but may be kept in check by spraying with a fungicide.

Answer to Correspondent. (“Amateur,” Gore).

(a) Thalictrum dipterocarpum will grow in any well drained garden soil. It does not like stagnant moisture at the roots during winter, (b) All species of Iris will grow and bloom in Southland. There arc very many splendid species (some still rare) besides a host of good garden varieties. I. Kaempferi is the Japanese flag Iris and good blooms often measure six to ten inches across. It will grow in any good garden soil with plenty of moisture; but is happiest by the side of a stream or pond in the fullest sunshine. Do not be disappointed if it. does not bloom well the first season after transplanting. The strong growing Irises like plenty of rich soil; but the dwarf species do not take kindly to heavy mulchings of manure. Bulbous species (English and Spanish) do best on a light garden soil sheltered from winds but given plenty of sunshine. Do not lift the bulbs if they arc doing well, and when evcntaully they must be lifted to prevent overcrowding, do not keep them out of the ground too long. Bulbous Irises will flower in three years from self-saved seed, (c) Lily-of-the-Valley arc best grown in warm sheltered positions away from late frosts. Good rich soil with plenty of sand to keep it open suits them best. Well rotted stable manure is best for enriching the soil. Plant the crowns now in beds four feet wide and as long as you have room, with two to three inches between the crowns. Cover the surface after planting with a layer of rotted manure one inch deep and give the beds plenty of water during the growing season. Such beds will not require renewing for several years. The reason for making the beds four feet wide and slightly raised up, is for convenience of weeding and also collecting the blooms. Movable frames may be placed over the beds to bring on a batch of early blooms. Your letter arrived a day late for answering in last week’s notes.

RA MON DI A PYRENAIO A This plant is deserving of cultivation wherever Alpine plants are grown. It is worthy of an important position in a cool and shady situation. Ramondia pyrenaica is a native of the Pyrenees, liking cool positions in clefts and fissures in the mountain gorges, where it is constantly subjected to the epray of the torrent and mountain '"Although perfectly hardy, the climate of this country is somewhat trying to the plant, owing to the wet and alternating changes during the winter months. This is chiefly on account of its habit, flat in form, and the general hairy character of its leaves, which tend towards keeping it wet, thus causing it to rot at the collar, the most frequent trouble one has to contend with. This, however, may be overcome very largely by imitating natural conditions, planting in fissures or rockwork .or in crevices on the face of a wall. It is not advisable to plant on the flat, but plants will grow very well on the lower part of a wall, where the rooting medium is cool and moist. A situation facing east will generally be found to be the most suitable aspect for this plant, as the shade essential for maintaining ccol and moist conditions for its roots will then be ensured. A good medium for growing the plants in is good sandy loam and peat. The flowers arc purple-violet in colour with an orange-yellow centre, about 1 inch across, produced cn stems 2 inches to 6 inches high, in spring and early summer. They vary in number from one to several on a stem. The rough leaves arc in the form of rosettes close to the ground, hairy on both surfaces, ovate and deeply toothed, the rosettes being from 4 inches to 8 inches across. There is also a white-flowered form of this species. The plants may be increased by means of seed, or division of strong, healthy plants, during the early spring. The. plant is, naturally, slow growing, and seedlings develop very slowly, the latter taking at. least two years before they attain to flowering size.—J. L. in Gardening Illustrated.

ENTICING BIKI) FRIENDS TO THE GARDEN

I (From the Christian Science Monitor). Birds are among the gardener's best allies. Nearly every injurious insect has one or more enemies among the birds, so. it is an advantage to have birds living in or about the garden. The majority of our common birds are friendly, and will, with a bit of coaxing, take up abodes on the home grounds. To entice birds to the garden, one might plant shrubs and plants that bear fruits and seeds found palatable by them, and arrange thick vines and shrubberies that will provide suitable nesting places. Birds are fond of birdhouses, and these are advisable because they provide a haven of safety from cals. Houses of bark arc well liked by the birds, and inconspicuous as well. . Many birds like to vary their insect diet with seeds. The sunflower bears seeds that are a great attraction to small birds. They will perch upon the sunflower heads and pick until very few seeds remain. Indeed, so palatable arc these seeds’ considered that the birds often take them before they are fully ripe. If the large common sunflower proves incongruous in the garden area, the small types may be used. Many other seeds arc eaten by birds. Many ornamental shrubs bear berries that are relished by birds, and the miniature thickets formed by rambler roses make ideal nesting places for the smaller kinds which are responsible for the destruction of many noxious insects. The Bird Bath. Nothing will attract more bird visitors to the garden than the bird bath. These should be placed in the sun, away from thick planting, but quite near to a email tree. Birds seem to prefer a bath in the sun, but a tree or tall shrub near by is necessary for their • safety because they cannot fly well with wet feathers. Birds are quite particular about the depth of the water. Two inches is sufficient for the smaller ones, and four inches will do nicely for the larger members of the tribe, lhe bottom of the bath should be sloping increasing in depth as the centre is reached. Where the depth is but two inches, (he slope must be gradual, if at all. A bath three feet in diameter will provide ample room for the bathers. Baths of good design, constructed of cement made to resemble marble, are goodlooking, and may be cheaply constructed. If these are too formal for the garden design,

simpler ones arc easily made. In one small garden a log topped with an old earthenware pie plate proved so popular among the birds that two more had to be set up so that, the smaller and less aggressive birds could have a chance. These two were placed in a small, rather sparsely branched pear tree, on the side toward the afternoon sun, and seem to be considered more satisfactory to the birds than the original one, which was placed it yard or so from the base of the tree.