Madame Goes Shopping

Southland Times, Issue 20673, 20 December 1928, Page 19

Madame Goes Shopping

(By an Englishwoman in Paris.) No tradespeople call regularly for orders in France. Cooks go to market (in every district there is a market ) and buy the provisions for the day. When there is either fish or poultry the mistress accompanies the cook, and many a smart Parisienne can be seen as early as nine in the morning, walking beside Marie or Louise, or whatever he’r name may be, discussing the menu for the mid-day and evening meals. It is a peculiarity with French cooks to have their hair dressed and wander forth hatless. The old fashioned peasant will wear a cap like those of her region, but the Parisienne smooths and oiks her hair, and objects to covering it. Asking the price of fish or fowl, a mistress who happens to remark that it is above the average, and, in fact, dear, is badly received by the quick-witted market women. I once was the recipient of their scorn, and have not forgotten it "Look!” says one to the other, "she wears a hat, and she bargains.” I fled. Markets abound around Paris; every district in the suburbs is supplied by vendors who make their purchases at the big central market, in itself a curiosity. .And not only do Parisians buy food there, but clothing of all descriptions. In the provincial towns dresses that are simple and elegant in design and colour—now that fashion decrees the straight cut —are to be held for the proverbial song in the open market. The French have a natural taste and ingenuity in contriving dress; but in truth—although it may cause surprise to strangers —the great question that interests them is not clothing, but the buying and preparing of luncheon, and dinner. Breakfast consists solely of coffee and a roll. But the mid-day meal is the all-important one, as it is customary for husband and brothers to return home for luncheon. Eggs, meat, a vegetable, salad and cheese are the usual requirements of the household, with a small cup of black coffee to finish the meal. At dinner there is always a soup—what we disdainfully call a water soup—but

which is nutritious and agreeable, for it is generally made of a variety of vegetables and a lump of butter. It is customary in France to make soup of any vegetables remaining from a previous meal, although the standard soup is what is called pot-au-feu, made from a piece of beef boiled with carrots, onions, turnips and leeks, and the meat eaten surrounded with the vegetables. Vermicelli or tapioca thickens the broth. Leeks and potatoes, cut in small pieces and boiled, make excellent soup, as well as the national onion soup that every child can prepare in this country. How simple and delicious will be discovered by those who throw prejudice to the winds and follow the following well-known recipe:— Onions are cut into small pieces (for a I family of six, four large onions will be sufficient) and thrown into a saucepan containing a lump of butter that has been heated. When the onions are brown, hot

water for the required quantity of soup and salt and pepper are added, and, at the last moment just before serving, a tablespoonful of grated Gruyere cheese for each person. Grated cheese is also served separately for those w r ho wish to increase the supply. As all know, there is nothing more nutritious than this combination of butter, onions and cheese. Salads are eaten at every meal, generally after the meat; but as a hors d’oeuvre there is nothing to beat ripe tomatoes cut in slices, flavoured with chopped parsley, oil, vinegar, or lemon, salt and pepper. Sweet dishes are not as customary as with us, but fresh fruit is the substitute. A pretty and economical custom is to place a dish of mixed fruit in the centre of the table instead of flowers, which are not always available at reasonable prices. It will be found that fruit is equally decorative and has the advantage of being excellent food.