THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 20497, 28 May 1928, Page 11

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (By J. A. McPherson.) UNDER GLASS. Fuchsias and Hydrangeas which have rooted from cuttings during the past three weeks must be potted singly into 3 inch pots and grown steadily on. If allowed to remain in the propagating pit or cutting boxes too long, the roots become interlaced and it is with difficulty the plants are singled out with their entire roots; consequently the little plants suffer from shock, and take a good few’ days to recover, especially during this dull weather. The potting soil should consist of good sweet loam two parts, leaf mould or well rotted manure one part, and sand two parts. During wet weather when all outside work is at a standstill, attention can be paid to empty flow’er pots by having them thoroughly scrubbed and stacked away ready for use in the spring. Potting plants into dirty-pots is very bad gardening. It leads to no end of trouble and often spreads disease into newly potted plants. Liliums that have been grown in pots are now sufficiently ripened off to allow for repotting. Carefully shake the soil from the bulbs, cut off any dead roots, and after thoroughtly washing and drying the pots, return them into a mixture of very turfy loam to which has been added, some leaf mould, a sprinkling of bone manure and a sprinkling of sharp wood-ashes if such are available. Do not use too much manure with the potting soil, for though some Lilliums are gross feeders, it can always be supplied with the soil used for topdressing (especially for stem-rooted species like L. Auratum ) and as liquid manure. OUT OF DOORS. Hurry on the planting of all spring blooming plants and bulbs. Wallflower is gradually coming into favour again and I am quite satisfied that this time it has come to stay; firstly on account of the long period of bloom it gives us, since it flowers for several weeks after narcissii are finished blooming, and secondly because it has been greatly increased in size of bloom and shades of colour by the large seedgrowers in England and the Continent. Cast a careful eye over all flowering shrubs and cut out any extra thick growth. This is not pruning in the true sense, but merely thinning, a very necessary operation. Shrubs such as Buddleias and Tamarix must be pruned in the autumn to permit of good strong growth coming away in the spring; it is on this new and soft growth that the flowers are borne in the summer. I take these two plants to represent that group of shrubs which produce their flowers on wood sent up the same season. The other group which includes such well known flowering shrubs as Forsythias, Weigelias, and Spiraeas produce their flowers on the growths sent up the previous season, and f must not be pruned in the autumn otherwise you will cut off much of the flowering wood. Leave them to flower and as soon as I the flowers are over, cut out the old flowering stems and permit new growth to develop. A very sane rule to remember when pruning shrubs is this. Prune at such a season as will allow the fullest possible period of growth before the next flowering season comes around. Flowering shrubs suitable for small gardens will be dealt with next week. Continue to dig all vacant ground and trench or double dig new beds and borders. ROSES. Those who have been wise enough to make a list of roses during the past summer will have no difficulty in making up their list for the nurseryman. Orders for roses should be sent to your nurseryman as soon as possible, for many varieties are limited in stock and soon sold out. In newly formed gardens the beds and borders which are to receive rose plants must be thoroughly double dug or trenched. No half measures will suffice and good cultivation of the soil is always well repaid. Place a layer of manure between the first and second spits of soil and when this heavy preparation is over turn your attention to the top spit. Roses delight in cool well drained ground. If the top soil is rather on the light side, add a sprinkling of sweet clay. If on the other hand your soil is too heavy and sticky, nothing is more effective in opening it up, and keeping it opened up, than some wood ashes well forked into the top spit. A sprinkling of lime too, is of great assistance and if one can obtain old mortar from buildings which are being pulled down, use it on heavy soil by all means, forking it in with the wood ashes. Hungry soils must have some fertilizer with a good body worked into them and for this purpose use bone meal. It has a slow but sure action on the newly planted bushes. The majority of rose bushes are planted two feet apart, with a little less distance for the weaker growing varieties. Mark out the ground before any planting is done by placing small pegs where each bush is to be planted. If it be a border place such strong growing varieties as Caroline Testout and General McArthur to the back, leaving the front clear for smaller growing bushes. If on the other hand a bed is being planted, plant the strong growing varieties in the centre. It is assured that a supply of viola and pansy cuttings have been put in as advised in these notes a few weeks ago, ready to plant out in spring, among the newly planted roses. VARIETIES TO PLANT. The question of which are the best varieties to plant, is a very open one. There are many good roses to choose from and opinions vary considerably. However, I decided last week to ask a leading nurseryman in Southland to supply me with a list of his best selling roses and also those which to his mind have done best in Southland over a number of years. Besides being of interest to rose growers, it is a very good guide to the beginner. I shall give both lists, and for the benefit of beginners, describe the blooms of each variety. BEST SELLING VARIETY IN SOUTHLAND. ‘ Betty Uprichard, (hybrid tea), A beautiful rose of unique colouring. The inner face of the petals is solt salmon pink, outside of petals glowing carmine with coppery sheen. Caroline Testout. (hybrid perpetual.) Clear bright rose, large and double, sweet scented. This is one of the best varieties and has stood for many years in public favour as a reliable rose. Gorgeous (hybrid tea) Colour orange yellow, heavily veined with reddish copper. Duchess of Wellington. (hybrid tea.) Colour intense saffron yellow, stained with rich crimson, which, as the flower develops becomes deep coppery-saffron yellow. Dorothy Page Roberts, (hybrid tea.) Pale coppery pink, suffused with apricot, a very free bloomer and decorative variety. Hugh Dickson, (hybrid perpetual.) Brilliant crimson, shaded pink. K. of K. (hybrid tea.) A dazzling semir single rose of intensest scarlet, its petals are velvet sheened, scarlet throughout, blooms very profusely all season. Lady Hillingdon (tea.) Deep apricot yellow, long buds. Mdme. Edouard Herriot. (hybrid austrian briar). Coral red shaded with yellow and rosy scarlet, passing to prawn red. Mrs. Herbert Stevens, (tea). Colour pure white, free and branching habit. A delightful plant for all collections. Mrs. W. Quin, (hybrid tea). Colour lemon chrone, washed with orange. The outer petals are flaked crimson orange. Shot Silk. Colour bright cherry cerise overshot with salmon orange, beautiful dark foliage enhances this lovely flower. BEST ROSES FOR SOUTHLAND. This list does not exhaust by any means the roses suitable for Southland, being only . the best twelve varieties and it must be

borne in mind that these are best growers not necessarily best exhibition roses. Thi list is very interesting and is useful alsc for comparision with similar lists compilec recently in Northern provinces. But firs: and foremost it is a good guide to all read res who are commencing the cultivation o the rose. Alexander Hill Gray. (tea). Pure yellow Frau Karl Druschki. (hybrid). Beautifu | snowy white an old favourite. General McArthur, (hybrid tea). Riel crimson, shaded scarlet. George Dickson, (hybrid tea). Velvet} black crimson, with brilliant scarlet reflexec lips. Sour De Georges Pernet. (hybrid Aus trian briar). Orient red, end of petals cochineal carmine, shaded with yellow. Theresa, (tea) Colour in bud a deep apricot, changing as the flower expands tc veined flesh pink. Then come the following which are described in the first list. Bettj Uprichard, Caroline Testout, Lady Hilling don, Mdme Edouard Herriot, Mrs W. Quin and Shot Silk. Where a larger selection is required the following varieties I recommend as being desirable roses to plant. Avoca, (hybric tea) crimson scarlet buds very long anc pointed. Captain Hayward (hybrid perpetual) Crimson carmine, perfect form anc very sweet. Chateau de Clos Vougest. (hybrid tea) deep scarlet shaded fiery red, changing to dark velvet crimson as the flowers expand. Golden Ophelia (hybrid tea), golden yellow in centre, paling slightly towards outer petals. Hawlmark Crimson, (hybrid tea) Intense crimson, very free. Lady Battersea (hybrid tea) Cherry crimson ehaded with copper-orange. Lady Roberts, (tea) Rich reddish apricot, Lieutenant Chaure, (hybrid tea) Velvety crimson red. Mabel Morse, (hybrid tea) Clear bright yellow. Margaret D. Hamill, (hybrid tea) Straw colour, back of petals flushed delicate carmine. Mrs D. McKee, (hybrid tea) Beautiful creamy yellow. Mrs C. Lamplough (hybrid tea) Soft lemon, paling on opening. Padre, (hybrid tea) Coppery scarlet, flushed with yellow at base of petals. Red Letter Day, (hybrid tea) Very well known rose, scarlet crimson, semi-double. Souv. de Claudius Pernet, (hybrid tea) Sunflower yellow, large and full. Queen Alexandera (hybrid tea) a beautiful rose but does not take kindly to some situations. Colour intense vermilion with old gold reverse. SIX BEST CLIMBERS. Black Boy. Deep crimson, shading to maroon. Climbing Caroline Testout. A climbing I form of this well known variety. i' Climbing Lady Hillingdon. Deep apricot, very vigorous. I Climbing Mdme. E. Herriot. A valuable addition to climbers in this variety of a well known rose. Miss M. Manifold. Colour velvety scarlet a good doer. Reve d’Or. Deep yellow shaded with copper. Rambling roses will be dealt with next week. VEGETABLES. Continue to remove spent crops. Dig all vacant ground, liming heavily any soil with club root. Make up the seed order ready for your seedsman. VIOLETS FROM SEED SOME AIDS TO A HOMELY HOBBY. Most of us know that violets may be propagated from cuttings and divisions of the plant. Fewer of us think of the violet as a seedling. The violet has a great multitude of species, but the one to which our heart leaps is viola odorata —the scented violet. It exists in singles and doubles dark blue light blue and white. The greater the scent the greater the violet. It is for the scent you grow it, for the scent the florist buys it and for its scent the customer—man or woman — pays readily the usual sixpence a posy. Without fragrance a violet is a pitiable thing. So when we sow violet seed and cast the dice for improved sorts it is for more vehement fragrance that we chiefly hope. SOME VIOLET VARIETIES. The fragrant sorts include the following which the old authorities have declared to be the best:— Princess of Wales (single blye), strong grower, large leaves, very large flowers, long bold stems, highly fragrant; an ideal florist’s flower. (Probably the best.) La France (single blue), the largest and boldest of them all, flowers over an inch wide —as wide as a florin. An ideal florist’s flower. White Czar, the best of the single whites, smaller than the blues. Marie Louise (double blue), large flower, good cropper, very fragrant. Neapolitan (double blue), another favourite. This and the preceeding (like all the so-called Neapolitan class) are short-stem-med. In New Ze.aland it may be difficult at times to purchase varieties true to name, but one can specify the class of violet required. WHERE THE BAD VIOLETS COME FROM. Our named garden violets are chiefly hybrids from the natural species. And because they are hybrids their seedlings vary widely. It is also likely that many garden violets supposed to be named sorts are merely degenerate, self-sown seedlings that grew up under the plants. Of course, the changes are not always for the worse. Some day you may have a lovely surprise. THE SECRETS ABOUT VIOLET SEEDS. Now, violets are very shy setters of seed. Their flower is specially fitted for bee pollination, and it blooms before the bees are out. It is ringed about with deterrents to small insects. If that were the whole story we should have difficulty in getting fertile violet seed. but having made what looks like a mistake, Nature vindicated herself by a most extraordinary contrivance. Nature invented cleistogamous flowers. FLOWERS THAT WED IN THE DARK. It is rather free translation to say the word cleistogamous means “married in the dark,” but it fits. These little unopened violets that you see on slender little stems lying flat on the ground beneath the foliage are the ones. They never open, yet they pollinate themselves inside the secrecy of their humble little capsules, and fertilize their seeds. You had seen them before, of course, but took no notice. But now that you know they have a big name you will be interested. You will understand that they can never be cross-fertilized. And consequently, they will lack vigour perhaps. But, let us be thankful. We have at least some seeds. The other flowers that bioom above the leaves and invite the bees so forlornly are called chasmogamous (flowers that open) a term which applies to nearly all the flowers of the garden. HAVING GOT OUR SEED. Violet seed is best sown in the autumn—say April, when the heat is past and moisture prevails. Sow in rather light soil, under a cold, moist airy frame for preference. Moisture is essential to violet welfare. Plant out when large enough into the flowering place, and wait for a good harvest in the spring. Earlier planting will secure winter violets, and in America, the violet (the flower of second importance in commerce) is grown chiefly under glass, not for the sake of the heat so much as

for control of all conditions. Frame culture is popular and successful for winter flowering in small operations, but ie too troublesome for large-scale work. MAKING THE FLOWERS COME BIG. The plants are set out about 9in or 12in apart, mulched with manure, and kept free of runners in order to concentrate all vigour into the production of large and long-stem-med flowers of the finest excellence. Dense, leafy beds of violets are not floral successes. Shape them to compact, isolated plants. —The N.Z. Smallholder. GROW IT FROM SEED SOME AIDS TO SUCCESS. Soil texture has much to do with the birth and thrift of a seedling. It is, after all, a mere baby. And how tiny! A human baby—a monster weighing 71b—we wrap in flannel and cotton wool and watch with anxious tension. A plant baby—a tender pigmy weighing 100,000 to the pound—we fling into any old soil, regardless. We musn’t do it. A SEEDLING’S COSY BED. Softness and fineness are essential to seed soils. Openness is necessary, because a soil that sets into an airtight cement after watering can smother the little organisms to death. A seed has to breathe, drink, and be warm. Air, moisture, and warmth must, therefore, be its bedclothes. The food can come later; there is no hurry for that. COMPOST AND FUNGUS DISEASE. A good seed soil is one comprising fine, light, fibrous loam, such as might be gathered under trees, mixed with other loamy soil or sand to produce the desired texture. Gardeners reach this result with their compost heap, made of weeds, soil, and sometimes manure, the whole being in course of time rotted and crumbled. This has one great danger—fungus infection, which is increasingly troubling the present-day gardener. The reason of the danger, of course, is that your home-made compost has come from your own garden, where plants of the same kind have grown before. If they are quite free from disease, all is well; if they were infected, the weeds and soil from their plots or neighbouring ones will be full of menace. TREAT SUSPECTED COMPOST. This may be cured by baking or steaming the soil or compost before use. The danger may be lessened by taking the soil from plots that have not lately grown the same kind of plant. Hence, one advantage of crop rotation. Chemical disinfection is also practised, and the seed may be soaked in a disinfectant liquid before sowing. But none are so sure as soil sterilization by heat. THE WEED PROBLEM. Then, after sowing, it is annoying to be rewarded with a crop of weeds. This is easily prevented, either by the steaming or by spreading the moist soil out thinly in a warm place to make all the weeds sprout before our seed is sown. MANURE FOR SEED BEDS. Manure is not essential to the germination or growth of a seedling in soil of moderate quality. Its effect may easily be debilitating. The purpose of manure is to produce faster and larger growth, and, though that is desirable in the production of w'hat may be called the crop, it ie damaging to the hardiness and constitution of seedlings before transplanting* The best plants are produced on moderately rich soil unmanured. COVER FOR THE SMALLEST SEEDS. While large seeds, like peas and beans, may thrive in the open ground, the little ones, down to the almost-invisible spores of ferns, are .best raised in boxes or pans. The rule to bury the seeds to twice their diameter is not inviolable. They need not be buried at all. They can be covered with glass or a cloth to preserve the moisture, which is essential. Thin sowing gives the sturdiest plants, and as soon as possible they should be hardened off to stand exposture—The N.Z. Smallholder.