Feminine Reflections

Southland Times, Issue 19639, 26 August 1925, Page 11

Feminine Reflections

A LETTEB FROM LONDON

(From our Correspondent.) LONDON. July 2, 1925. My Dear. You’ll be thinking I’ve forgotten my promise to tell you about Ascot, when several lettera have elapsed meanwhile. But really. I’ve had so much else to tell you. and it’s been such a contract collecting notes and news from the Magnificient Glamour that is Ascot, that you’ll really have to accept this belated letter in the spirit in which I send it.

Not even Longchamps can rob Ascot of its picturesque pageantry. The race meeting marks the climax of the London season, and when the weather is propitious—as it was for the last meeting—the parade of frocks and the excellence of the sport, are unequalled anywhere in the world. There is the arrival by car, and the arrival by foot of hundreds of smartly frocked men and women, who walk from the station to the enclosure through leafy woods. The footpaths wind through fields of summerygreen, and the play of light on the billowing frocks worn at last Ascot was a delight to watch. As a dress parade Ascot has achieved a world wide fame—every woman wears her loveliest frocks on the first day, and on the second day there is another blossoming of beautiful clothes. Last meeting can really be called a parasol Ascot, and in photographs already received the honours were apparently with the Japanese variety in many vivid hues. There were feathered parasols. like ostriches gone crasy. and the lamp shade variety similar to that introduced by Mrs Magrath (the Lady Rosita Forbes). There were umbrellas like huge flowers opening to the sun. and there were cretonne brollies in the wildest futurist patterns. The first day of the Ascot meeting was perfect. Perfection is a state that we often hear about, but seldom experience; and one of its effects is that it leaves one disinclined to talk about it. All that one wants to say is the farmer's grace after meat; “I puts down my knife and fork, and I says, ‘There !* ” Only those who betted very unluckily, or had their pockets picked, or are too much lunch, or perhaps thought that their hats or frocks were outdone by

somebody eise’s hats or frocks, could have found anything to complain of; and the source of all expression is really dissatisfac-

It was the perfection of English early summer: the sun hot, the breeze cool, the clouds that slowly moved in the blue sky precisely adapted to temper the heat to the English dread of sunshine. And thtf year Ascot surpassed itself in flowers. Some of the rhododendrons in the big round bed opposite the Royal entrance hinted that the Ascot gardners had reckoned without the warm weather, which is always expected, yet never allowed for; but the decorations of the Royal pavilion were charming, and the flowers in the garden round the bandstand sounded to perfection the gardenparty note at which Ascot aims.

And from flowers the mind turns naturally to frocks and the wearers of frocks. Never has Ascot seen so many pretty women in pretty frocks. In the modern fashions, can one go wrong? Indeed, the perfection became almost exasperating. Last year it was possible to collect a handful of specimens of the wrong thing. By the wrong thing it is not intended to mean the homely thing, appropriate to its wearer. The pretty girl in her simple, cheap frock, and her proud mamma, habited as becomes her portly dignity; the gentle old maid, the stolid countryman, all the odd and various crowd—these are as much a part of Ascot as they are of Derby Day; and very pleasant it is to see them there enjoying themselves. For the wrong thing one looks not in th? packed six-shilling stand (which this year is immensely improved*, nor on the roof of the grand stand, nor even on the lawn. It is looked for in the Paddock. And this year a blank was drawn.

Into the Paddock, then (perhaps for luncheon there in the enlarged restaurant*, to see the cream of Ascot. It is always better to be in the Paddock than anywhere else at Ascot, because the beauty of the place—an enormous green butterfly, poised on a flower, with one wing a little more tilted than the other, on each wing a large white circle —is a better setting for the pick of the people than even the Royal Enclosure itself. 111? quiet of Ascot—that is certainly one item in its perfection. There were a good many four-in-hands, and the arrival of each raised a little stir of admiring interest. As the Royal procession comes up the mile, and the white horses of the outsiders. their Majesties’ four greys, the gleaming browns of the other carriages, the scarlet liveries and the flashing harness, all the gay details of the familiar, yet always thrilling spectacle catch the eye, a murmur sweeps up the long crowd like a breath of wind over a cornfield. People, you know, are cheering; people, you can see. are waving hats and handkerchiefs, and busily identifying the Royal ladies and others in the procession, looking forward meanwhile to having a real good stare at them during the afternoon.

The Royal Enclosure was already full when the King and Queen arrived at 1.15. Ascot’s Royal Enclosure and the stands behind it cannot hold more than 3000 people with comfort. This year the crowd totalled nearly twice that number—it must have been a sort of Lord Mayors Ball in the open air. It was therefore well nigh impossible for a great percentage of people to get a glimpse of the racing; but it is safe to say that nearly half the folk go to see each other, and not so much the horses —that is part of the correct thing to do at Ascot. Queen Mary was the cynosure of all eyes in a shimmering dress of palest mauve, embroidered in silver, with a silver lace cape falling to the waist at the back. With this she wore a toque of shot mauve and silver tissue with an upstanding plume, and carried a plain parasol to correspond. Her jewels were pearls and diamonds. Princess Mary, Viscountess Lascelles, in pink lace with large gold tissue hat, trimmed with a bunch of pink roses, was in the second carriage with the Duchess of York, who wore flowered chiffon, in shades of pink, with a fluffy hat of pleated tulle in a deeper rose. Among those who were awaiting the arrival of the King and Queen in the Royal Pavilion were King Manoel and Queen Augusta Victoria, the latter in a striking black and white gown, worn with a close-fitting black hat with ospreys. The Duke of Connaught was with Lady Pat ricia Ramsay, in beige with a wide hat of beige and brown. Prince Arthur of Connaught was with Princess Arthur, who wore a lavender frock with an apron of lace, and a small lavender hat trimmed with a cluster of small flowers. The vogue of lavender and pink was absolutely universal and even when the

chiffons were printed in many colours purple tones predominated. For evening wear throughout the season green was first favourite, and at a big ball given by Lady Louis Mountbatten the fateful colour was much in evidence. Of course, all dur talk of late has been of Courts and presentations. The May “Drawing-rooms” (as once we used to call and what are now known as “Courts”) have had their full complement of overseas “presentees,” and not- a few colonial candidates were disappointed when the word went round that for this year the lists were filled. More than 1000 matrons and debutantes mad? their curtseys, in due order of precedence, to their Majesties on each occasion. Mrs Amery, wife of the Dominions Secretary, is a veritable fairy godmother to colonial people, and at all four Courts (two in May and two in June) she most graciously made her services available for those who had no near relative or friend in England to whom they could look for the necessary sponsorship. The heavy burden of the present taxation brought about a greater simplicity in dress for these functions. Indeed. the crowd is so great and th? whole ceremony so quickly over that each individual toilette has scarcely a chance of being noticed, be it ever so magnificient I I was greatly interested to learn from a London woman the other day that, instead of spending 100 guineas or more on her Court gown (as she thought little of doing before the days of the super-tax), this year £5O had i covered the entire cost of her own and her | daughter’s appearance at the first Court.

This places the coveted distinction within the reach of many eligible colonial women, who might have qualms of conscience about spending a whole year’s allowance on a dress for which they would have little use at home.

One of the most important notes of the dressmaking world is the sudden turn against black. It was worn at the private view at the Academy, at many of the big weddings and afternoon functions, but now quite suddenly it is on the wane. Many of the Ascot orders which included a black frock, have I am told, been cancelled during the last few days, and an instruction for colour been substituted. ’ Black is the choice of laziness; it always looks smart if well-cut and of good material, and allied with sunburn stockings and patent shoes, but if there is a strong sun it looks too dense unless in chiffon or georgette. The colours that are being ordered are ashes-of-roses—the new’ rosy brown—pinky tan, apricot, peach, green, primrose, and canary yellow, cyclamen and petunia and hydrangea blue. So there is a wide choice. IX THE FIRELIGHT. ARE WOMEN INCONSISTENT? (By Agnes Airlie.) Inconsistency is not entirely a feminine weakness, although it is only fair to state that generally speaking, it may exist in men in a lesser degree. Occasionally it may be regarded as charming and piquante, but, all the same, it is the result of a faulty perception of the true meaning of things, coupled not infrequently with a selfish and out-of-focus view. POLITENESS. Take politeness for instance. Many a woman who is perfectly well-bred and polite in their own home and in the family circle, is often the very reverse when it comes to dealing with shop-assistants and those who serve the public.

These women, with plenty of time it may be on their hands, will stroll into a shop, and without the least intention of buying anything demand to be shown this, that and the other article, turn over the contents and that not too carefully, of various boxes, and after endless trouble, walk away with scarcely a “Thank you,” murmuring that they may call again, or that they had been asked by a friend in the country to enquire about prices, etc. Such conduct is bad enough and very trying for the girl on the other side of the counter, but it is still worse when she is reprimanded by the shop-walker for not having effected a sale. Social butterflies, with nothing special to do themselves, think nothing of invading the office, den or studio of the busy bee in her working hours, with or without apology, and stay an unconscionable time. It is very difficult, short of being rude, to give them the hint that one has no time to spare for frivolities during the day. Yet the working woman, in justice to herself, must protect herself from such thoughtless and inconsistent friends, as much as from the professional gossip, who rambles on incoherently from one topic to another about nothing in particular, or pours a stream of silly rumours into her ear, which she is by no means anxious to hear. PRECIOUS TIME. Busy women, whose time is very precious and not always their own within certain limits, often suffer from the lack of punctuality on the part of leisured women, who make an appointment at a certain hour at

a draughty street corner, and then when their victim, chilled through, is on the point of turning away, arrive smiling with a glib and insufficient excuse, utterly unconscious of the dislocation of the day’s plans.

Many otherwise kind women are often most thoughtless about the payment of bills to the little dressmaker or milliner, or the handy man round the corner. Perhaps the smallness of the amount may have something to do with it, but money, like poverty, is a very comparative term, and the withholding of what is legally due may be a very great hardship to the person with little or no capital. Lots of women order hats and frocks W’hich they know perfectly well they cannot afford, simply because they are going to a wedding, or their social suburban rival has blossomed out in an entirely new outfit, and they wish “to go one better.” Perhaps they can afford the clothes all right, but they only consult their own convenience when it comes to the matter of payment, and even regard the presentation of the account as something of an insult on the part of the one who supplied the goods, and who may be desperately put to it to find the money to pay her own employees. Actions like these betoken not only a want of thought, but a lack of real culture, for culture means restraint, patience and the sacrifice of one’s own pleasure in the interests of others and for the sake of principle.

MRS PEPYS’ DIARY. MONDAY, August 17. For eating at our supper this night, to make more welcome the cold meat, also to make it go further, do prepare a very excellent soup and this a cucumber soup suitable to the season and reasonable enough for any to copy me in making who have a mind to do so. The way of it to peel a cucumber of'a goodly size, to cut in pieces to measure about one inch, and to put into your saucepan with one onion, small, and of white stock 1 quart and to cook until it be tender, when you must put all through your sieve. Now to cook in loz. of butter 1 oz. of flour, then add to it your puree bringing it to the boil, faithfully stirring of it all the time. When it shall boil, add your seasoning and the yolks of 2 eggs, and of cream 1 gill, (or a little milk, this an economy only to be advised at a pinch). One thing to be noted with care, and that is not to let your soup boil again after adding of your egg and cream or all to be spoiled. For serving with this soup small squares of fried bread to be advised. Some may like to colour it with a little green vegetable colouring, but this to be as you will. The quantity here being enough for four or five people with other courses to follow. TUESDAY, August 18. To drink a dish of tea this day with Mr Pepys’ niece, Gladys, and she as ever, very busy with her needlework and pleased to show me how well she can make her own frocks and at how small a cost compared ; with those who have a dressmaker’s bill ; added to all they wear. Did show me an ! evening frock she hath just completed for ; a special occasion indeed, and that a dance ;of a small character, (all rhe more need ' therefore, as she sayth wisely, to be well dressed than ere it to be of a large and ' crowded affair) to be held after a wedding; the same dress to serve her in the winter time also. The shape of it as straight as fashion demands and a very handsome brocade of blue silver chiefly, and this to suit her well, with a wide hem at the bottom of silver tissue. Also a scarf of the tissue with a hem of brocade and all of it put together by hand, serving to do her great credit. But upon my marvelling that she should choose such expensive material for home working she tells me how she believes that to be the secret of success for those who make their own frocks, that the stuff of them should be as good as they can, as the vulgar say, “run to.” A good material being much easier to sew and because of its goodness the more apt to hang in a smart manner. WEDNESDAY, August 19. Mistress Bassett writing to me of her need to prepare beforehand cold meals against the warm weather, to be eaten by her and her family, or such friends who stay late playing tennis or when they would go a picnicing. Do bid her to make a Galantine of Beef this a very good stand-by for all such occasions and economical also if cut in thin slices and served with a salad. This less to harm any of a weak stomach than bought foods of a similar character. To make it, do bid her pass lib of lean beef and 41b of bacon through her mincing machine, and to put all into a basin, and mix well with 6ozs. of breadcrumbs, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and of cayenne a pinch. Add now 2 eggs w’ell beaten, and of cold stock about 4 tablespoonsful. Let the mixing be thorough, then roll up in a pudding cloth, tie at the ends to make it the shape of a sausage and boil for 2 hours and a half. Then take it out, place between two dishes and on the top dish set some weights. When cold you may glaze it for the better appearance of your galantine, or if you may not easily procure a glaze at your grocers, roll your galantine while hot in very fine breadcrumbs may serve you. THURSDAY, August 20. Expecting of Mr Pepys’ cousin Gladys to eat her luncheon with me this day, we to our shopping together afterwards for seeing if aught be still -worth buying at the sales. Do prepare therefore an egg and ham salad, to provide us with light refreshment of a nature suitable to the occasion, but would here note that this also a very good supper dish for the time of year. The manner of it to cook 6 hardboiled eggs, (or as many or few as you need), and to cut them into slices; to chop up of cooked ham 4ozs. also a sufficient quantity of cucumber and to mix all together with care, also adding some lettuce well dried and shredded. Over all pour a thick salad dressing, garnish in a pretty manner, and to serve at once. Also you may add a very little chopped shallot if this be to your taste, or to first rub your salad bowl with a shallot enough flavouring for many. FRIDAY, August 21. Up very betimes to get through such daily doings about my household as may not be set aside, thus to gain me greater leisure for cutting out and planning a new set of table mats to be worked by me at such times as I would employ my hands to a good purpose, and yet not suitable for the careful starting of same. These mats to be of an oblong shape, and large enough to hold all to be required of one person, (plates, glasses, and so forth), with another that is long and narrow for the centre. This I think to be a change from the small round mats used by many, and less likely to lead to the spoiling of a jx>lished table which' is ever a sore pity. This set to be made by me of orange linen, and to be worked, but not over much, in brown thread with touches of lemon, yellow and red. My idea to make it now to use in the winter when flowers be both scarce and expensive, with a bowl of brown earthen ware filled with fruit to take the place of them, these to be apples, oranges, and lemons for carrying out of my colour scheme and with orange candles to finish it very tastefully as I believe. SATURDAY', August 22. Expecting of company at our tea on the Lord’s Day, do plan beforehand a dish or two of sandwiches for a variety, the same very tasty as I believe. Some to be savoury, called Bengal Sandwiches, and much favoured by men as I find. The way to make them to take one egg, hard-boiled, one teaspoonful of curry powder, a few drops of anchovy sauce, a squeeze of lemon a dust of salt and of cayenne pepper. Make all into a very fine paste with a little cream, or if you have it not, butter to serve you. This paste to be spread on brown bread and butter cut thin, and daintily shaped to please your taste. For a sweet sandwich, I am told that raisins minced and mixed with chopped nuts and for moistening them a little lemon juice. This mixture also spread on brown bread and butter, is found very acceptable by some, so determine on those also, and I pray God I may not regret my doing so.

THE HOME COOK. TO KEEP SAUCES WARM. When a sauce has to stand some time before being used, stand the saucepan containing it in a larger one with hot water, and cover the sauce with a lid to prevent a skin forming. MUTTON VENISON. To remove the bones and some of the fat from a loin of mutton, place the bones in a stew pan with a large onion stuck with 4 cloves, sweet herbs, a carrot and half a head of celery. Let them stew together gently for 2 hours. Strain the soup into a clean stewpan. Place the mutton in with the fat side down and let cook until tender. Half an hour before serving, take up the meat and brown it in the oven. Strain the gravy, thicken, flavour, and brown half a pint of it. Just before serving, add to it a tablespoon of red currant jelly, and flavour with port wine. Pour this round the meat and serve. TO ‘TULL” BREAD.

Take the inside crumb from a French roll, pull it with the fingers, do not cut it, into small pieces, and put these in a slow oven until a delicate golden brown colour. FISH MAY’ONNAISFk Take lib or 21b of cold cooked fish, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, j-pint of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of salad oil, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of cornflour, 2 eggs, a pinch of salt. Blend the cornflour with a little cold milk, and boil the remainder of the milk. Pour it on to the cornflour, stir until boiling, simmer for 6 or 8 minutes, and cool a little. Blend the oil and mustard carefully, and stir gradually to the cornflour mixture. Beat up the eggs and add. When well mixed, add the salt, sugar and vinegar very gradually. Remove all skin and bone from the fish, and either flake it or serve it in pieces. Arrange it neatly in a glass dish or salad bowl, and pour the sauce over. Garnish with chopped parsley.