HER LADYSHIP

Southland Times, Issue 18939, 12 May 1923, Page 14 (Supplement)

HER LADYSHIP

LINGERIE. BOUDOIR NOTES FROM PARIS. PARIS, March 12. Th* popularity of the slumber suit is firmly established. Unfortunately there are designs which, are so foolish that some women still feel prejudiced against these garments. Some dainty models provide •cope for uncommon trimmings. Irregular embroideries, flowers, birds, or buterfiies, copied from a Japanese print or a ■quare of Chinese embroidery, or applied designs cut from a piece of toile de Jouy and worked round the edge with fine but-tonhole-stitch, look attractive. Heavy white shantung silk is the ideal material for such a garment. Some slumber suit« might be occompenied by a short Chinese coatee, and the latter might be of an entirely different colour and material from the “suit.” In Paris a fashionable dress artist is ibowing sabot bedroom shoes. Boudoir caps •f “Grandmother Wolf’ order are giving place to the hitherto popular turban. Delightful dressing jackets are made of triple ninon on which are stamped quaint designs in gold and silver. The effect is somewhat like that achieved by stencilling, but it is attained by an entirely new and Secret process. The design is “baked ’ into the material, which can be laundered without any fear of the gold and silver being ■poilt. Pale green is a favourite colour at present for lingerie. Many nightgowns are Bnade sufficiently ornate to be used as boud»ir gowns if desired. Pleated side-panels and black velvet ribbons were attractive features on a delightful olive green crepe de •hine model. A marigold yellow georgette sleeveless , frightgown was trimmed with pale embroidery. and horizontal tucks indicated the waistline. In contrast to these elaborate models are others of extreme simplicity in linon de fil, naineook, and other delicate fabrics, ffhey are trimmed with beautiful hand embroidery. . „ „ - • 1 r The latest boudoir cap is a simple atfair. The foundation is a strip of gauze ribbon lon< enough to wrap the head and fasten at the back with a clip. A bunch ®f ribbons hangs from the fastening. A double row of needle-run lace is sewn each side of the ribbon, the lace extending only to the ears. Little "pipe” of brightly coloured silks ornament the ribbon at intervals. POINTS FROM LONDON. ABOUT LACE. LONDON, March 12. A use is found for laee on almost every garment—black lace, white lace, and black and white lace mixed. Magpie lace is generally waxed, and has a large mesh and bold designs. Now that sleeves are so elaborate—and they become more and more so every day -—lace has a fresh role to play; bat sleeves, wing sleeves, bishop sleeces —all these are made of lace: black, white or coloured. Coloured lace has taken a fresh lease of life. One of the loveliest and most admired evening gowns at a recent opening was made entirely of heliotrope lace, silver embroideries, and silver fringes. It was one of those mysteriously draped models which are now so popular, and the lace was mounted over a semi-transparent fourreau of silver tissue. An unusual girdle was made of heliotrope flowers, with a loose trail of Banksia roses at one side.. NEW ( VEILS. Some of the new spring hats are entirely concealed by lace veils. Folds of beautiful lace are tucked into the band of ribbon or flowers which circle the high crown and then allowed to fall loose at the rides, the ends often reaching the waist. Another popular hat trimming takes the form of a length of pleated chiffon with a wide lace border. The chiffon is wound round the crown of the hat, with one long, lacebordered end falling over the bnm at the right ride. , . j f The newest eye mask ved is made of fne, pleated lace. Still another novelty is the mousquet-•ire-gauntlet on a pale grey suede glove; the whole gauntlet, reaching from wrist to near the elbow, is made of slightly stiffened lace and more often than not there is a narrow band of fur on the border. I have seen this idea carried out in pale

i grey suede, dark blue waxed lace, and dark ' blue shaved lamb, the band of fur being not more than an inch wide. ROUND THE SHOPS.

An exclusive material resembles nun’s veilings and is effectively striped with raised lines arranged in groups of three at intervals. This material is available in many charming colours. A Paris novelty on sale in London is a new kind of matelasse thickly embroidered in silver thread?. From France also comes the new cotton crepe patterned with motifs or checks woven so that they are raised from the background. Cotton cloky in various pretty colours appears prominently among summer materials now' being shown. Black and grey jacquered cloths, black and grey tweeds and grey materials embroidered in black and white are fashionable for spring wear. The latest version of soie cloky is called cloquelle, and in black is being used for straight wraps. Novel ninons are patterned with designs resembling finely worked embroideries. A lovely fabric of this kind in marigold colour is patterned with black and silver. | Metallic effects are seen in the majority lot new ribbons. An innovation is matelasse ribbon having the appearance of being threaded with a narrow corded ribbon of contracting colour. Petal effects are widely in vogue this season. A beautiful evening gown of crepe had a plain casaquin bodice joined to a skirt made entirely of small petals. ! At the top of the skirt the petals were [faintly pink and gradually deepened in shade until a flaming line of colour was

reached. ! The latest suede jumpers and short coats are treated with mottled dyeing which pro- • duces an effect resembling Batik work. I Distinctly smart is the comb of blond | tortoiseshell caned in the form of three small feathers. HAIRDRESSING MODESLONG HAIR COMING BACK. It looks almost as though long hair is about to come into its own again, and instead of concealing or tucking it away as heretofore owners of long hair will have an advantage over the bobbed heads, who may even be constrained to help themselves artificially, states a writer in the Manchester Guardian. Instead of the uncovered forehead, hair is again beginning to be draped over the eyes and drawn back over the head to the back of rhe neck, where it is rolled up and pulled slightly towards each ear. Even curls are being worn in front, with all their possibilities, in unskilful hands, of becoming a mere frizz. A pretty way of doing the hair low down on the neck is to make rolls which surround the head as far as to cover each ear. A wide comb is stuck into the top roll, which reaches half way up the back of the head, to emphasise the bulge of ine head. Great attention must be paid to the general shape of the rolls, which must look like short horizontal curls and protrude at the place where slightly long bobbed hair would protrude. The present mode of hairdressing is soft and pretty on a good many people. It is not so very easy to do, because it is low on the forehead and on the neck at the same time. One method of treating it is to make a side parting just a little above one ear and loop the hair over to the other side, gathering the whole into a tail very low down on the neck. This tail is divided into two parts, the two parts are crossed, the hair brought forward to each ear and then doubled back again. This gives the effect of fullness over the ear, which is so becoming. Thick and heavy hair can be thus treated to advantage. Light-weight hair is better waved, and it keeps the waves very satisfactorily.