NEW IDEAS IN COSTUMES.

Southland Times, Issue 17305, 29 March 1913, Page 9

NEW IDEAS IN COSTUMES.

CATHOLICITY IN MILLINERY. FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON. UTrom Our Lady Correspondent.) LONDON, February 7. With the departure of Sales, Fashion takes up her own again, and this week has declared many a change in the realm of dreas. Vivid colours have returned with a vengeance, in fact you can hardly overdo things in the matter of embellishment, hats, indoor and outdoor coats and gowns, having all made a stand. NAVY BLUE AND GREY are still, as one supposes they always will be, In the forefront for coats and skirts. Grey has a tendency to trim itself with wide white collar-revers and white or crystal buttons. Rut there are red costumes now and vivid cerise and blue with emerald, etc., etc. Hardly a plain silk rever is to be noted, the new ones being, some of them, quite richly ornamented, nearly all of them figured or embroidered In some way. FOULARDS printed ,ln very bright shades, reds oranges, blues, greens, and pudples trim a number of light cloth coats and skirts even the buttons covered with the "silk. REVERS are of various descriptions, gome losely aet in like narrow capes, other trim foils, others fiat; some coats have insets of light cloth hand-embroidered 1 net etui of revers and collar. AN EFFECTIVE COSTUME Of fine navy serge, this week, had its only touch of foreign colour expressed on a black braided collar which at each side (ft tiie neck had a small golden arrow worked. AN INTERESTING TENDENCY. Coats and skirls seem to bo making themselves as like reception gowns as possible, while the gowns arc returning the compliment: This is not always successful, since a coat has come to mean to most of us a garment that can be taken off, and-a coat on an Indoor gown, other than silk, ninon, or some very light material, has a somewhat stuffy effect. Xba present Idea is to have cashmere

gowns made so, the “coats” reaching about to the knees at the sides and braided. There is generally a small sijuare embroidered yoke, a Russian fvout and a belt to these. DRAPED SKIRTS give a reception suggestion to the newest costumes. One of the week, of black corded silk, .had a skirt rather like a riding habit therefore more pleasing from the front than the back ?

Thera is a chance now of originality, everyone with, an artistic bent will be glad to know, as a glimpse at some of the methods of trimming will reveal. One very expensive coat and skirt of dark blue had a slanting inch-wide panel on the left rever, of mother-of-pearl, to a length of about three inches: a brickred rough'serge coat and skirt had a square pleated jabot of biscuit mull at the collarless neck with severe black bow at the top. A navy diagonal serge costume showed a loose Latin Quarter bow at the neck of soft black silk lined with champagne colour: a buff serge fastened up to the neck and belted had two plain ends of black velvet ribbon about five inches long down each side of the cloth covered buttons that started at the neck and extended to the length of the coat.

A FULL-BfiSTKD EFFECT seems tp be the aim of the most nptodato tanors and this is aTTruuod very artistically at some limes and very crudely at others. Norfolk jackets, for instance, with inverted box-pleats stlched down everywhere but at the bust can’t be said to be graceful, but the new brocaded silk coats certainly are. The effect is reached in these either by having the coat (which is brocaded while the skirt is of plain silk) cut sharply away at the corsage or tight pleated from the waist to the bust, which is left full, or so trimmed that the chest seems wider than it is. Slim.skirt outlines still remain. MAGYAR SLEEVES are seen not at all on any of the new styles. LACE VEILS are just as popular as ever though white ones scorn to have outstayed their welcome.

MILLINERY. Nearly all hats are small and have silk crowns, though already there are a few of transparent crinoline and mohair straws.' A certain amount of catholicity In trimming is allowed. For instance, provided that the shape is smart, a single mount of flowers outside or inside the brim at either left or right is just as fashionable as anything else. These silk crowns, which are sometimes Just of silk stretched over a round straw crown, sometimes pleated tam-o-shanter-wise, share the rage for colour shown in dress generally. ATT EN CAT ED FEATHERS are still with us. Some of these (which go either singly or in pairs) are Just roughly stuck through the straw crown | the ends showing. LACE CHOUX, another simple method of trimming, are again seen, in white, cream or black on a contrasting hat and placed slantingly at the edge of the crown. COLOURED STOCKINGS

again return to favour and we are in for a lime of striped silk and wool ones, it appear.--. LACE COATS follow on the Introduction described, a few weeks back, of laced skirls. The ladder of cord is generally down one side, the left. PLAITED SILK CROWNS of the printed foulard alluded to earlier arranged in pleats but fairly tightly could easily be made at home. The brim is then of some silky straw slightly curled all round and a single posy of small silk flowers finishes the hat.

THE NEWEST ORNAMENT Is apparently made by machine and would demand great skill from an amateur milliner. It is of tulle, oblong of the brush nature, and made of very close placed petals of tulle. It bulges a little at the middle and has the appearance of a round fan just opening. Sometime.! It is placed upright, but it also followu the rage for back-pointed embellishments. SQUARE JABOTS of muslin,or chiffon, generally close pleated and edged with lace and fastened Inside a collarless neck so that they fall like a loose yoke, carry on the longlived popularity of this dainty form of neck gear. They can he easily fashioned at home and should be about nine inches, in length and, when pleated, about seven inches wide, or more. VIVID PLUMES In dark hats, and very bright and long ostrich feather edging on stoles of dark marabout must be worn now if one cares for fashion. TWO COLOURED NET REVERS over the cloth or satin rovers on evening or reception coats are new ideas, these are generally of coarse net which is gophered.

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