IN FASHION'S REALM.

Southland Times, Issue 19553, 6 May 1905, Page 1 (Supplement)

IN FASHION'S REALM.

Up-to-date Notes on What to Wear.

The art of arts to our sex is that of being well dressed. In previous articles I have touched upon many of its phases but not, so far as I can remember, upon the fat and lean phase. Most of us know that we should dress to suit our complexion, our hair and our features, but how many pause to consider that the stout woman shouldn't dress as the lean one should, and that the short woman must bow submissive to certain restrictions in pattern which the tall one can snap her fingers at? Or if we do know this undoubted law of nature, how many of us are loyal observers of it, recognising as inevitable that which is wise and accepting as a law that which is discreet? In a word, one part of the art of being well dressed depends largely upon the discretion manifested in choosing frocks suitable to one’s physique. It is not enough that they shall be strictly fashionable; they must also be becoming, and it is here that so many women go astray. There are those who, while keeping abreast of fashion, are always picturesque in their attire. Such women now and again, merely for the sake of a change, will affect the severely fashionable, but away from the picturesque they are out of their element—dead failures indeed. Quite the reverse are another class who always look up-to-date when quietly clad, but who, when they become the slave of the picture mode, are merely walking caricatures.

The millinery seems to increase in prettiness as we near the season of comparative severity. Many of the hats have a marked characteristic to tilt forward in front and to be raised behind, the effect as a rule being in the way of smartness. The hat shown is a becoming brown straw turned up slightly at the sides and much at the back, the front

peaking as it were and standing out soma little distance. Of brown silk and embroidered lace the trimmings are tastefully disposed, a circlet of roses going round the somewhat high crown, and a spray of the same being placed at the back and " held in "by a loosely tied bow. The brim is further assisted with a twisted golden yellow and brown cord, that is to say with a cord formed of a strand of each. » • • “ Coming Modes” contain some good advice on the subject of autumn skirts, wrapped up in the form of a few brief notes on styles in favour. Ilegarding tailor-mades it says that they are marked by severity and simplicity in style, 11 though there are plenty of costumes that embody in their make-up beautiful embroideries, braids, and appliques." It goes on to say:— Tailors are clinging to the fitted skirt, while at the same time they are doing good things with full skirts of cloth and other soft materials, gathered at the waist, and also with accor-deon-pleated skirts of fine serge and cloth. The tendency with regard to knife-pleats, which are used to a tremendous extent, is to keep them as flat as possible on the upper part of the skirts, stitching down each pleat closely near the edge, and concluding the stitching with a sharp diagonal line several inches above the knees, the pleats thence falling free, but having been so well pressed that they remain flat and very distinct in outline. Panel effects and hip-yokes are also used a good deal, but the yokes are often partially concealed by box-pleats from the skirt, which are periodically brought up over the yoke into the waist-band and stitched down neatly at both edges.

The early winter gown is shown as early as possible in the picture to demonstrate one of the chief uses to which fur is to be put this winter—as a trimming. The costume is_ of silver grey cashmere, the jacket bodice being perfectly plain and tight fitting, as are the sleeves. AV of tucked silk or plain grey velvet at tbe neck is framed with a scarf with chenille dots and fringe, a bow finishing it off

and this being centred by a brooch. But the feature to which I wish to draw attention is the application of the fur, a broad band serving as a rueh to the skirt, and the cuff of the sleeve being picked out with the same of half the width. With the costume appears ahat of grey felt with a marabout aigrette at one side and a camilia at the other, while in order that everything shall be in sympathy the parasol is edged also with marabout, its shade being the same as the gown. The peridot or olivine which for a period glittered and scintillated in vain, is once more in vogue. Mingled with diamonds and pearls, it is so lovely and of a green so infinitely soft and becoming that one wonders society could ever have been insensible to its charms. King Edward is reported to be a great admirer of the peridot, and now, owing to tbe fact that the Khedive has granted a concession by which an English firm secmes the entire output of the finest peridot mines in the world, some magnificent specimens exquisitely set are finding their way into the market. The peridot, which is seen to the be=t advantage when associated with either diamonds or pearls in a brooch or pendant, has this tremendous point in its favour—it is a very moderately priced gem.

s There waa a rumour la London a few months ago that the blouse had to go, but to quote “ Homo News," the rumour was without foundation. The wearing of blouses and skirts has too much to recommend it for the combination to be lightly discarded,--al-though the blouse has survived the changing styles as never did any other garment yet. The smartly-dressed woman doesnot greatly concern herself except with the question of blouses. She hits one or two well out skirts appropriate for all wear, and, with a good supply of blouses, she can alter her appearance completely with a comparatively small amount of trouble and expense. Especially will she score if she happens to boolever with her needle, as almost every woman is nowadays. The excellent patterns that are now easily procured for a few pence are generally so reliable, and a judicious shopper can find remnants of beautiful goods so cheap, that a few pounds will purchase quite an elaborate winter outfit, for we all know to our sorrow that each dressmaker’s bill embraces the cost of materials sufficient for at least two or three blouses.

A very smart velvet coat is shown in the Illustration—a Russian blouse shape drawn in with a contrasting kid belt. The special feature about the design is the collar, a turnover wljiqh completely envelops the shoulders and narrows gracefully to the belt, from where it forms a border to the edge of the

garment. If desired tho.,upper part.of the collar may bo of fur, but in that case the cuff of the sleeve should be in sympathy, while in any case the latter has a graduated box-pleat on the outside from the cuff to the shoulder. Pearl buttons are used with this coat, the shade being any that will go with the choice in the velvet. • • * As advised from the best of English sources.—As yet, bodices remain very straight fronted, the effect being emphasised by the height to which belts are carried in the centre front. A fashionable evening bodice, draped and boned, has a line of chiffon roses running from neck to waist, the decolletage being draped with similar flowers; and other bodices give prominence to the straight front by means of a flight of bows running up the belt or corsage. Small ruches are profusely used in the trimming of taffetas gowns, the oval wreath, united to its neighbour, being a design that is made good use of, and that looks very well in frayed silk. Fichus grow in favour, and in silk as well as in lace and muslin give the coup do grace to many a dainty toilette. Of much elegance is a gown of black taffetas souple, the skirt rouched and the bodice arranged with a fichu of its own material which vanishes into a high pointed belt—a gown of simple style but charming withal,

Fur neck wear will be much in evidence this wiritfr, and to meet the demand the.designers have evolved very many beautiful novelties. From a large selection before me I have chosen two to illustrate what I think are charming styles. In the one on the left you have a fur stole with pointed endsand tips, the ends having two bands of velvet to

the shape and these being “ rivetted ” with jet buttonettes. You will note that the stole is of graduated shade a dark centre lightening out to the edge, which as yon may guess is because of “ the nature of the beast.” The tippet stole on the right is both novel and beautiful, the shape being extremely elegant and the treatment most artistic. The tipping down the centre of each end commends itself at once, as does the finish—two tails of considerable length and fulness.

If you wear short skirts how do you weight them ? I am also addressing your dressmaker. The old style, of a solid piece of metal here and there is absolutely dead, and the new style is one that might quite easily have occurod to us before. What you do is have inside the skirt an inch from the hem a stout piping of tape, which you simply load with shot, employing what size and what quantity is requisite. The best thing is to have a very thin piping, and run the shot in, and sew at intervals, half a dozen ata time. I have read of how a skirt was treated in this way with a most satisfSbtory result, and I can at once see how easily it could be attained.

Speaking of sleeves, a Paris authority writes: —The question a sleeves is the important one this season, and the consensus of opinion is that while the sleeves will broaden the shoulders they will not necessarily lift them. Many of the new models show a sleeve shirred in the armhole in such a fashion as to lift the sleeve well above the line of the shoulder; but this idea is by no manss universal, and it certainly accords not with the prevalence of the Marie Antoinette modes. One thing is certain—that the sleeve is the largest at the shoulders, and perhaps the best model descends in puffs graduating into almost nothing below the elbow into a shaped cuff. And yet at the same time I must admit that there are some examples of sleeves made in one falling puff to below the elbows met by a high, close cuff.

After several seasons of neglect on the part of the upper ten white aprons arc again being worn by little maids, both at school and at home. The prettiest are of Persian lawn, and these have nainsook insertion and embroidered trimming, especially the smart ones. An old style that is revived is the Gabrielle, and this is very becoming in practically all cases. It is cut in one piece, which is different to the article that has to be matched in two portions—the waist portion and the skirt. While aprons are not necessary for children who tfear washing dresses all the time, they are with woollen garments really indispensable if the wearer is to maintain a fresh and dainty appearance. MAnaVBRITB.