IN FASHION'S REALM

Southland Times, Issue 19387, 10 September 1904, Page 1 (Supplement)

IN FASHION'S REALM

Up-to-date Notes on What to Wear. # The spring fashions will contain amplifications, even exaggerations, far more than they will novelties. For example, the yoked skirt was a mere nothing to start with, and then it grew and grew till the yoke was right over the hips. In some of the spring fashions the ', idea will extend to a basque-like effect in ' "which the line will extend far down the skirt, and generally in a scroll form. Praotically, it will be a continuation of the side line of the bodice, that line which borders the vest where this is open from neck to waist. In such a costume the line may pass under the belt, and then to half way down the skirt, forming a kind of artificial basque. Where the scallop is employed this line from shoulder to middle of skirt will be in a series of crescents, and the idea will be adopted around the back, so that the line from one shoulder^ Will continue down the' blouse, down the skirt, around the back of the skirt, up again to the other side, and thence to the . opposite shoulder.- Generally speaking skirts will be *-gathered at the waist rather than ' fitted, and a strong feature will be made of the frilled flounce, and also of the flounce that is frilled- cither side of a band of em- ,.- broidery: Even as the idea will be to carry effects as far down the skirt as possible, so / will it be. with blouses, collarettes developing into positive capes, single, double; and treble, many of them drooping to as far as the elbow*: With sleeves, all that was good " in- the la%V couple of Seasons will be embraced - and emphasised.^and a fashionable, design * fr-will bethe bißlhileeve^ over the cuff beneath -~:-which it-will be*" pinched" with a bow or even buckle. ■-.-. am m Spring millinery is ooming like spring itself, which . as the poet says is always .«* clothed like a bride." One of the prettiest of the many pretty confections in this way is showri in tne picture — a fancy straw picture hat trimmed with the flowers of your choice, as marguerites, chrysanthemums oi even small sunflowers, one being more open than -the rest r and just over the hair. A 7 long chiffbh'dotted veil hangs down from the

? back in the* form of a drooping cachepeigne 7 abd is deftly brought around, the left shoul '^'^-T_.Sc.-fo':' : |*i*ißte_i : " witha flower of the kind ir 7^ the hat'itsel-. The latter* is, as just said, c fancy straw, the edging of which is an arlistic conception in scroll form, while the crown serves to provide a bed of chiffon on which -.. rests that part of the spray which is not employed to decorate the outer brim. A blonde ma hat of .this character may be sure she is displaying a handsome piece of millinery. * ■a .- ■• • The handy bag which we have been carry- '" __rig so; long must go^ Why it has been con- : demned I know not, but the decision comes from the bench whereon Dame Fashion pronounces her judgments, and— there you are. What we are to have instead is the long, narrow purse, this being as ornate as ever the 7 owner likes. As an example, it may be of practically any colour, as well as of any leather, and the filigree work about it may represent the art of the jeweller at its veiy finest. Incidentally, {this reminds me that '" an excuse may be coming around for a return to pockets, the full skirt permitting of this • on the good old plan. If so, then I shall regret the departure of the handy bag, which was one of the prettiest of modern dress accessories fof outdoor use. '■-''■»'■ a, ... *• A mode with just the slightest glimpse into the future, for it embodies effects which summer will only serve to ripen ! Of voile or nun's veiling it is of an even shade,"everything being left to the gathering and the lace tb produce the necessary ornamentation. The*, blouse shows a circular yoke, of much beauty which serves" as a crown for a

full bodice, and delightfully puffed sleeves . vesting oh a fillet effect of lace and chiffon which in turn heads a long glove-like cuff. The skirt is novel, handsome, and worn on - the proper figure,, fairly fascinating. Profusely gathered round the hips, it falls with, an oyer and under skirt effect, the former "being flounced with deep, lace and in addition" bordered with a medallion pattern between parallel cords. .- ; :ft>- ■'■ "*' ■'*»■'■'• .A fabric that changes colour under varying conditions of the weather has just been produced. The new invention marks a new era in fashions. Blouses and gowns can be made of the material, though the invention is yet hi its inftincy. When it has been developed to a greater extent the woman of fashion can array herself in a blue gown in the morning. By noon it will turn to a ■■'■' mauve. 7 The afternoon will find it pink, and the evening some other colour. No practical ose of the new invention has yet .been made, except a few sample neckties which the inventor has distributed among friends. The fabric of which the neckties are made resembles a coarse linen/ When the weather is warm and fair the colour is a , dark blue. In cold weather it changes to purplet The approach of rain is heralded by pink, and snow causes the necktie to become a startling

The majority of the smart belts have a buckle back and front. As everyone knows the deep belt is the one that commands the eye of up-to-date dressers, but it is still imperative that the article be well made. I saw a belt with a deep back to it on"a stylishly dressed woman the other day, and it looked just awful, because it was not properly made. By this, I mean that although the - belt itself was made a kind of support, it had nothing to support it in return, and so had gone into all shapes. An extremely pretty belt of satin ribbon will be narrow in front with a dipping buckle, and wide at the back with a deep buckle to prevent the thing I refer to, while to assist it still further the buckle will centre a bow, from whioh may depend a couple of ends. Suoh a belt as this will always give satisfaction, and never lose its shape, if worn with reasonable care. At the same time a woman who is fond of dainty accessories to her wardrobe will not depend on a single belt, nor yet on two or three. A belt for a woman is what a necktie is for a man — it should be distinguished by variety, or in other words, it shouldn't be seen too often. In my opinion every woman ought to be able to make the least dressy of her belts herself, but whether she can or not she should have at least four to half-a-dozen to choose from. The new butterfly toque is sure to win ad- , mirers; and one of the most charming is fairly well pictured. Of a pale shade of chiffon the markings are picked out with a darker tinted silk, •#____. the body of the butterfly may be of silver, or even, for an elaborate article, of "jewels." And as butterflies and

flowers go together, the latter are shown on the crown and again oh the hair, and also, if desired, at the back, whero the employment may be profuse. One of the most elegant color combinations for the class of hat shown is of straw or amber tinted chiffon, svith graduated brown application, picked out with beads. ' When the warm weather comes along j there will be two types of blouses— one with the overhanging pouch and one without it. This will not be because botharefashionable, j but because the pouch is going to be deposed in favour of the other. And, of course, it is; i not easy to say "The King is dead ! Long live the King! " with an article of dress, for the reason that there will always remain votaries of a decaying style of value till it becomes impossible to continue supporting it. The change should be noticeable quite within the timo mentioned, as last spring in London ,and Paris the fashionables issued j the decree, and doubtless as the summer has advanced the obedience to it has become j more and more general. To quote "Coming ! Modes": "A striking change has arisen in the style of some of the blouses for the new season. It is certain that the waist-droop is lessening, and in one or two of the latest French patterns there is actually no droop at all, but a considerable fulness, which is drawn into the waist-belt in the usual way. i . This abolition of the pouch does not, there- j fore, imply^a tight-fitting bodice ; nor does it necessarily shorten the waist-line, which is, as hitherto, drawn down very much in front by means of a .pointed ceinture. That a change, on the lines of what has taken place, was inevitable, cotild easily have been foreseen by those who studied fashions, and their influence one upon another. The sudden revolution in the world of tailor coats and bodices, introducing the tight-fitting mode) as a substitute for the Russian waist, was a certain forerunner of the gradual lessening and eventual absence of the pouch of the blouse. That change, in its earlier stage of development, has come to pass. •* * ' Certain blouse " tendencies " are well illustrated in the lines of the accompanying design for spring. It exhibits first the possibilities of tucks and "folds, the newest idea in a crossed yoke, and latest coming sleeve, and the high belt effect which is becoming popular in compliance with the most

recent decree of fashion. The mat-rial in this blouse is not really material to the object of presenting the sketch, although as a guide it may be given as pompadour delaine or any other seasonable goods. To be effective, the blouse requires to be perfectly made and fitted, while the wearer must, of course, have the figure which is calculated to show off such a pretty design to the best advantage. ft ' ' ft y ■■ • Touohing the many revivals of antique styles, quite a number of humorous artists in the old country have endeavoured to make some fun at the expense of our grandmothers, and quite a number of more or less amusing writers have followed suit. Portraying the modern dame in all the ugliness of the dressing of fif ty years ago has been the commonest trick, and indeed the artist has had no option ; but occasionally there has been a flash on the part of some wit of the pen, about the cleverest being the -QjlQWijJg : Her sleeves are 1830, And her skirt is '61 ; Her tresses in the manner Of Louis Quinze are done. Her hat is quite colonial, Her brooch is pure antique, Her belt is 1850, * But when you hear her speed-— What year the maid belongs to You do not wonder more, Her dress is many periods— But her slang is 1904. Of course this does not apply to any of my readers, but to " the stranger who is outside our gates." ' _r.-.«™A™™.