IN FASHION'S REALM.

Southland Times, Issue 19197, 7 November 1903, Page 1 (Supplement)

IN FASHION'S REALM.

Up-to-date Notes on What to Wear.

The revival of the bonnet is indirectly due to the' likes and dislikes in head-gear of Queen Alexandra. Hats suit the face that is full, and not the face that is long. Hence ourgrncions Queen's preference for the bonnet which, of course, is just the thing to make a thin face appear plump and rounded. The bonnet is an old only in name, as the/ modern creation is really the toque's first cousin, the difference being that the one~"fias "'striiig¥'an3 the' btner riot. {Strings are the great JEeatuve,-of. the bonnet, and, of course, its greatest attraction. In the resurrected article they may be of unconipromisihgrribboh; fts formerly; which is rare, or of the softest and most fanciful character, greatly to the improvement of the article. For instance, they may be of chiffon, or of gauze, or, even .of painted panne or of tulle.. Indeed, s,ince the bonnet has been in a way thrust on us, it has been deemed only right 'to take whatever liberties are possible to render it gay and enticing. And as very little departure of this kind can be made -with the bonnet itself it has been taken aimosti wholly with the strings I .' Thus, the strings of the bonnet for the present season .are just what .l have said, and as time progressed 'tbjey may 'become more and more ornate > . fall the . .reaching of the 'extreme compels a surrender in favour of something else.

The strings of- the bonnet are a survival of the " side levers " of those head-dresses which were designed to shade the f.ice. Indirectly also they are a - Survival," though farther back, of the head-dress that quite covered the back of the -head and a large part of thfi v fsics, in addition. -In this respect ■ they correspond . r fib ';%#" '.-bridal VTeil, which, though, now a mere ornament, was atone time a disguise. In the good old Saxon days — I say good without knowing whether they were good or " bad-r-the bride was always^ supposed to be desirous of escaping her fate. Hence, when "she saw her husband coming, she would run into Che forest and cover herself with leaves, hoping thus to escape observation. ■ After the age of leaves came another age. but the idea survived in a mantle, which has since developed into a beautiful veil suggesting; the, curtain of "a transformation scene. L '" *■'•*■■ - ;

And thus I cbuj^4own' to , a pretty enough -hat by way of cbntrast^-a c hat that, is carried - out in colored straw, the, tint being according to fancy/ The broad brim, so essential in this climate, is decorated underneath with rotre of chiffon,, arid the crown is set with any dainty flaw.er^.iaaylfor choke, that of my ■ieiraame. Surnjoniit^ then -with a, cluster the hat is further set off with aribbori lobps" which are indicated in the Xig-zsjg on the left. And jnst where it turns tife most at the-side a^emaHer bunch of mar*u*rites.W employed, set against a backgrdbnd of yelFct. Hats just now are both stiU andlimp'i^eyere 'and ianciful, .the latter bein^for tb^no^,P4# decorated- with lace *nd iiowjere,Sa^d^loinetimes Irtce and small jCgut.' li'sSMSre-in keepin;* with theseason, T tifiriiti to 'have your hats as dainty as possible, which means that severity of style < should fro avoided. ia . Anvthihg-ior ft changej?and|herafore^the.: StriUCd boot .wi shoe. >■■ -It iz*. **■& of oonrse, ' anaonethatVxillnotb&ad^tedbyany con-Bidei-able number of my^isters, &nyhpw> Jho striped boot and shoe har nofcas yet «een in. thesti-eets of capital, 4hatlknbw'pf,-botit is -already a common *nouch sight in the. fashionable quarters of London, fi :The stripes are either across the loot or along it, according to the fancy of the -wearer, and likewise they may be black, grey, or any of the colours that, staring themselves, invite that attention from passers by. lne striped boot and shoe may hfe worn under any circumstances, though to my mind they • suggest fastness, and foe this reason are foredoomed to an early end. 0f one thing we may be anre, no sensitive wom«Ms irould dream of wearing anything that, made h<jr feet so conspiwoofi, iiwi herself,^therefore, the pbJectof attentipß ,^ijii reniark. ,^ . .

Two very charming blouses in which the designer has gone to great pains to produce an artistic arid harmonious effect! lliaton the right develops in silk or muslin, the circular shaped berthe being cut with plenty of -fulness with, at intervals, diamond effects in iace The- very free frill is exquisitely hung Wbordered, and finds its equivalent in the Juli and graceful sleeve which is finished 4itn^fe same insertion. .Fashionable open 3Sg^:the;;berthe increases the effect Sis pre% garment, Equally choice is ihe tnodel- on the left .which, makes up in -2k S^lAith^ttatic effect. The slonjng #nHrs divided by insertion lace, are set into SvrdSS^onside^ble skill while from S^SS^eJat^He bottom g Oe TDoach are three more tacks which add to tho design.- Insertion law on he £S£ sleeve f rom shpulder to dboww »J design BtiH farther .-^hfle at tb e-.d^nr la » band of insertion which binds ., the .bishop sleeve below. With so many charming blouses as we see this season it .-to impossible to particularise atiy' V^PeiPg conspicuously better than others, out' among a cluster of perfect designs -the' two shown occupj a central position. ■„■/;■ ; -. to ' »■•■«. ♦ ; V

Touching a popular decoration, we^are (aid that—" The .fashionable wMd' really seenis to have gone' stole mad. JNo costume; is complete .without sonic of the^endless ■variety 1 of stoles, beautiful designs in riblxra work on white satin are worn, with lace coffee coats. Deft fingers embroider, delicate deagnß or paint them in water colors. A novel stole is of very transparent lawn, over olossy.MhV to gtye the shimmering effect, and stoles" of solid -se^auiß, a snake-oharnwri are thrown. careleßsly over a •hare neck in e*etoing cbqsj, : :-m wil 9-s made

Tulle trimmings are much in vogue, and the latest novelty is a waterproof tulle that will stand a shower of rain and look no worse. to This invention deserves patronage, as hitherto tulle has been quite unwearable at the seaside or in dam^. weather, a fact, which, despite its origiiisi^eheapness and freshness, nmdp it in t!i< l'Ui^' run rather costly wear. Turbans of driDf" ■■] cream lace, bordered with black velvet :unl finished off by an osprey, burnt straw embroidered with black flowers, and pale blue straw combined with pale pink are all seasonable novelties.

An exquisite Voile'- toilette is shown in the illustration. Carried out in grey or pale blue, it is very stylish, the association being crepe de chine and a fair amount of lace and insertion. The blouse opens upon a gauged vest of crepe de chine, crossed at, the neck in V form to simulate a yoke, while the revers extending entirely over the shoulder are covered with lace and trimming. A tucked

frill is in sympathy with the same design on the sleeve'aud again on the skirt, where a feature is made of a graduated tucked llounea of very beautiful design. The insertion lace above and below the upper part of the flounce gives it an effective border, two strips being carried to the waist to meet similar strips which outline the sides of the blousette. A daintier piece of designing than in this toilette it would he hard to find, and sol submit it. in every confidence of pleasing even the most fastidious.

Panno vc'vc,t, which is so :"iis;iionnl»lo for trimming purposes, mny b<- evolved from the pin pricked. :iml shabby velvet, which has been taken of! lust yoiir's h;U. The mothoil im.-s been given a* follow.';, anil if the advice is sound, then no womim should need to be without a small' supply of the desired material. First have ready a moderately hot, nnd perfectly cle,':n and Fmcoth, steel-faced iron. Spread the velvet, right side upwards, on a clean ironing board, and smooth it with the iron, taking cure to press thu right way of the nap. Keep the iron moving all the time, for if allowed to rest it will leave a mark that you will not be able to 'remove. After going all over the dry velvet, ironing it in one direction, steam it thoroughly, and then repeat the ironing. You c:m:i:>t ururis too much, provided you keep tho iron moving with a steady, even stroke. This method will soon transform the velvet into shimmering parine. >* * *

A new mid very beautiful blouse is shown in the accompanying design. Like so many others, it has as its dominant feature the bolero frill effect, which, however, \>i this case reaches the acme of gracefulness. The 3hapedyoke has very pretty angles which assist this, as from the lines, the dependent frill' takes its shape, even to. the pleat either side. A fancy silk is a veiy good, material to work on for this garment, although a very

snk*t ,/iffair may be developed in either figured dsiisine or printed or Swiss muslin. In any ease ihfe trimming is of insertion lace —a single border around the yoke, and a piece for either cuff. I may say that washing materials for blouses of the kind exhibited are very profuse, and many of them very kaiAitif ul . Floral patterned delai ties are likely to be ja strong demand as the season tjrogresees, and y/ith reason, as delaine is one of the most charming as well as most economical of fabrics.

"\Vhnt is going to .supplement dainty lawn and muslin, when, in due course, they pass out for a further interment in the sepulchre of what is out of date ? The "impression is that Jlfc will resume its sway, though not necessarily *,b,e old style of silk, where quality was everything, oad .design and color nothin« Af'aim velvet will fcayo a show, but it won't be tne old velvet, but ahuToc velvet, a supple and enveloping material, draping the figure almost like chine crepe. It is a great art, .(.he making of a new material, and a fortune to anyone who; can strike a novelty which will gain the impress of popular approvnl. Taffetas and ■16ui$jn,e of delightful softness, chine crepes with a Ami surface, and somewhat heavier, these will have a run, simply bscnuse they are new, though of course they arc also beautiful. And how long this run will U<j for, must be judged from the history of the fabrics, a season probably, and half a season possibly, according to the fickleness of Eve's daughters,

There seems to be evidence that superstition is growing more and more common and we are returning to the custonja of the ancients, who wore amulets anil eharrns to protect themselves against evil spirit)*. Mascots in every form make their appearance among the fashions of the day, and especialJ|r as novelties in jewellery. The latest .fad is aif Jncky star." It consists of a double star, whose points are of gold wire. ' and in the centre is & round stone. The idea, of course, is to select ihp b;rth stone according to the month, and it makes a, yerj -pretty as well as poetic gift. The lucky star has » pendant attachment, and may be worn 'either ac a/brooch or pendant.

w^o ever expected long ear-drops to be come fashionable again ? They have been seen at intervals, for some time past, but now .they actually are .worn— worn, I mean, not in isolated instance*, but to a large extent. How we do become accustomed to .things i len years ago no one would have been seen in long ear rings, and now they are admired ! The rings and drops are more delicate creations tathpseiwrneriyworn,