Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 26, 1 April 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER

A RUSSIAN BLOUSE DRESS. It is greatly to the advantage of the home dressmaker that the fashions remain simple and therefore economical. Even the double skirt, with long tunic, is not an extravagant fashion, lor only the visible hem-piece of the under-skirt is of the dress material, the rest being of lining. Plain skirts and slightly draped ones, though not so new as the double and three-tier skirts, are, of course, among autumn fashions, and united to these are bodices made in the ever-popular Magyar style and those with raglan sleeves.

Pretty little aprons of one sort ot another* are added to house frocks for afternoon wear, the apron, whether of coarse lace or embroidery, being really a part of the dress itself. It partakesof the nature of a short, split tunic. In spite of the many changes that come about in dress materials, serge icniains as always the stand-by, and no colour has eclipsed in popularity the übiquitous navy-blue, though ot late the deeper shades, merging into indigo,

preponderate, and the coarser qualities of serge have given place to the finer makes, known as coating-serge. Whipcords, of a very elastic make, sharo honours with serge, and in navyblue enjoy special favou'\ Shades' of fawn and' biscuit are also fashionable in whipcord fabrics and others with ribbed surface, and ratine will, again, ho much worn as the season advances. As regards coat fashion, there is likely to be a run on Russian blouse-coats, and some of these, made in navy-blue ratine or whipcord, are excellent examples of the vogue. Moreover, novel effects are added to this season's Russian coats in the mingling of materials' —and thereby is a clue to a successful renovation. Note, for instance, the charming Russian blouse costume illustrated. This is made up in two materials, though, of course, it might be copied on one material throughout; or, again, the coat might be of one material only and the skirt of another. The original of the dress illustrated, however, showed a ekirt of navv-blue serge and a Russian coat chiefly of black taffetas, with cuffed sleeves and belt of serge. Here, verily, is a delightful and original scheme. The belt, placed low, is- run through slits made in tlie coat, and at the neck the material is split to form a placket. The caps to the sleeves are cut in one with the coat. The becoming hat worn is of black velvet, trimmed with cherry-coloured moire ribbon. A MANS DRESSING GOWN. Women who are employing their needles in the interest of convalescent soldiers and sailor:-.' may be glad of a few hints concerning the making-up of a man's dressing-sown, as illustrated in this column. Blanket-cloth or unshnnk-

able striped flannel should be used for tho wrap, and the quantity of 54-inch stuff required is about four yards. Th« material should be folded double, lengthwise, and the pattern pieces, six in all, namely, one front of dressinggown, half the back, one sleeve (in tw(.

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parts), half the collar and one pocket, laid on it as indicated by the diagram. Lay the straight edge of back and collat to the fold to avoid seams. The other pieces, except the pocket, are cut out in duplicate. Good hems must be allowed the dress-ing-gown at the bottom, and the armholes must be large. The sleeves are not provided with cuffs, but rows of stitching should be added to the sleeves when made to give the effect of these. The fronts, when joined to the back, must be faced with material cut from the waste; buttons must be sewn to the right front, and buttonholes made in the left. The collar should be lined, or made of double material, and the neck of the dressing-gown must be sewn between collar and lining. The neck and collar may require a little notching at the curves. Face the wrists on the inside, hem the top of the gown on the left front. Press all the seams well, after opening them. The cord girdle at the waist of the dressing-gown should be held in place by a couple of short straps, sewn to the under-arm seams at a low waist level.