TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES.

Pelorus Guardian and Miners' Advocate., Volume 20, Issue 38, 18 May 1909, Page 7

TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES.

Referring to a request for information as to best method of moving his row of eight-year-old apple trees, I will tell how I have often moved peach, cottonwood, live oak and other trees with bodies from four to six inches in diameter, not only without loss of a single tree, but with resultant growth so vigorous as to renew their heads in a few years. I have never planted an apple tree older than two years, but see no reason why his eight-year-old trees could not be moved just as successfully as those named. In fact no tree takes more kindly to rootpruning than the apple. Next fall, as soon as the leaves have fallen, let him cut back the heads to a single stem about eight feet high, and with a sharp axe cut straight down about six inches or less from the trunk all around, driving the axe so as to sever all collar roots, hut removing no soil from the surface next the tree. Then remove the earth outside the ring as deep as the cut, and drive the axe down as before all around, and clear the soil from the c.rcle for a space of eight or ten inches so as to allow the next cut to be made sloping toward the tree, continue until all side and vertical deep roots have been cut, leaving the tree standing in the hole with a ball of compact earth from 12 to 15 inches or more in diameter every way. Then dig holes about 21 feet deep and about six inches wider than the ball, rounding the bottom so as to fit the bottom of the ball somewhat and scattering well-pulverized soil an inch or more in depth to bring the ball in close contact with the hole. But by no means dig or loosen the bottom soil, under the de- j lusion that the roots cannot peue- , trate it just as easily as all tree seeds do the the firm surface in a state of nature. Gradually fill the j holes with well-pulverized moist surface soil, working it under the ball , firmly with the hands and packing with a blunt stick or dibble. When half full, ram the earth as for a fence post; complete filling to the surface and again ram so as to leave adepression of four or more inches which should be filled with water and allowed to sink away several times, until the ball and earth are saturated. Next fill the hole level, but do not tramp, and mulch with strawy manure deep enough to prevent freezing or heaving. If desired, a taller trunk can be left, but strong vigorous shoots will spring from the top and by leaving the upright ones

only, a five or six foot trunk coulai bo lengthened several feet. If one has the faith to follow these directions, his trees will establish themselves on strong tap roots from the lower ends of the old stubs, and in, a few years overtake the others. If ho plants them with long roots, spread out laterally in wide holes, thov will be permanently dwarfed.— H.'M. Stringfellow.