GATEWAY OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 19759, 13 October 1938, Page 13

GATEWAY OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

A BRITISH FORT ROCK OF GIBRALTAR STRATEGIC POINT WHERE LIFE TS COLOURFUL THE SECRET TUNNELS The recognised gateway of the Mediterranean, Gibraltar, has for centuries been regarded as the most important strategic point in southern Europe, writes Hugh Curran from "The Rock" to the Chicago Tribune, it remains so to-day. Located parlously, as it might seem, on a spot of ground scarcely three miles long and three-quarters of a mile across at its greatest width, the rock of Gibraltar looks across the vitally important few miles of water which separate Spain from the African coast. At its highest point it is 1400 L above the level of the surrounding sea. To the west lies the Atlantic. To the east is the Mediterranean. To the north, any hostile movement in the Spanish hinterland could be easily detected.

The elevated ground called the rock proper is just what its name indicates, solid rock —mostly limestone, varied by beds of red sandstone and shale. The city itself lies mostly on the flat ground at its base, with better-class residential buildings nestling at various points along the lower elevations. The docks are ample and well furnished with rows of storehouses and offices.

The entire atmosphere of the place is essentially naval and military. Its history since" the eighth century of the Christian era is a continuous record of aggression and warlike activity. In 1704 Britain's flag first was flown over Gibraltar. It was challenged several times in the succeeding years till 1713, when the fortress was definitely ceded to Britain by the Peace of Utrecht. This was not the end for in 1779 war was again declared and continued by the Spaniards until March 12, 1783, when peace was signed and the last or "great siege of Gibraltar" ended. Name from Moorish Chief

Here in brief is the story of the place as recorded in the local annals: In the year 711 the Moorish chief Tarik-Ibn-Zeyad took possession of the rock. From him it took its original name of Gebal Tarik, or the mountain of Tarik. The Romans knew it as Calpe, a name preserved in the title of the local hunt, known as the Calpe Hounds. In the succeeding years it was alternately held by the Moors, the Sultan of Fez, t3ie Spaniards, and the Emperor of M/oroceo. It is a remarkable fact that during the World War the inhabitants of Gibraltar were hardly conscious that a war was in progress; they never .saw an action either on sea or land, were unaffected by the world scarcity of food, and the local hospital accommodation was never called on for other than the normal local needs.

In the numerous sieges to which

Gibraltar has been subjected it was starvation rather than military prowess which brought what success was ever achieved. When a few years ago Mussolini was talking menacingly of securing a clear passage to the Atlantic there was fear lest food supplies be cut off. This was altogether natural, for mountain goats provide the only home-produced food. It is one of the sights of Gibraltar to see the goats driven into town in the morning and milked outside the houses. At the last census only four persons of the 20,000 within the area were described as being employed in agricultural occupations; and these were probably employed in Spain. The town is entirely dependent upon seaborne products.' Spain keeps all her produce for the civil war. Vegetables and meat, more or less fresh, come from Northern Africa, France, and Italy; potatoes from Ireland and Scotland are plentiful enough, as are poultry and eggs from the Moorish countries of Northern Africa. Butter from New Zealand Chilled meat comes from South America and Australia. Australia, New Zealand, and Ireland send the main supplies of butter. Fish are caught locally, and there is an abundance of fruit, of which ireat quantities ar t > consumed. At the moment, so far as one could see, no one need go hungry in Gibraltar. Hotels and boarding-houses put up excellent menus, but, as must, be inevitable, the cost of living is substantially higher than in Great Britain. There is no unemployment in Gibraltar. Many girls go to the Argentine, where the language is familiar. Those.who remain in Gibraltar usually marry. The employment for men, needless to say, is for the most part

of a military nature. Rearmament is feverishly pursued. Defences are being strengthened.

Passes to explore the numerous walks are obtainable at the military stations, but naturally there are many avenues .into which visitors may not go. The entire face of the rock might be said to be a virtual arsenal; from every ledge fierce-looking weapons peep out, and in unsuspected nooks shrubberies camouflage similar machines. Where there are no shrubs the surrounding rock is streaked with various colours reminiscent of the artistry displayed on ships during the Great War.

All sorts of stories are told regarding the secret tunnels. There is a series of galleries, mostly underground which as samples of engineering skill evoke the admiration of visitors. These were undertaken during one of the sieges, under the direction of one Sergeant Ince, long since famous for his work.

Occasional Openings

His objective was to get guns into position to bear on Spanish batteries on the plains below. As the tunnelling proceeded it was found necessary, for ventilation, to make occasional openings. These provided admirable emplacements for guns, which, long since obsolete, still are m position.

A colourful feature of the rock is the group of about 20 tailless Gibraltar apes. This is the only place in Europe where any type of monkey is found in' a natural state. They enjoy complete freedom and protection;* soldiers are detailed daily for this duty. Occasionally, when the east wind prevails or when water is scarce, they come down to the residential quarter, where they do considerable damage to the grapevines.

How the apes came to the rock originally is the subject of many a romantic yarn. Popular tradition is that they came from Earbary in

j Northern Africa by a subterranean passage underneath the straits. Where they go to die is another mystery. No skins or skeletons ever have been , found. I The harbour of Gibraltar usually is ' busy. As many as seven large steamers, mostly British, may be seen standing out in the bay. It is not uncommon to see the American, German, French, Italian, and Dutch flags at the sam e lime. Traders to and from the Far East by way of the Mediterranean and the Sue/. Canal invariably make Gibraltar a calling station. Shore trips by passengers of I many nationalities give the city a j festive air. Warship Visitors 1 Frequent visitors are the larger warships of the British Mediterranean Fleet, and when the proverbially cheerful British Tar is in town saloons are crowded and the cabaret shows are well patronised. Thousands of British soldiers are stationed I at the rock, and their frequent enler- | tainments lend colour and variety to j life ashore. Large portions of the (own arc barred off as part of the reservation, with military barracks Tor infantry, artillerymen, and engineers and living quarters for the men and their families. Officers' quarters are for the most part situated along Europa road, which skirts the southern slopes of the rock, leading to Europa Point. Tropical shrubs and plants grow luxuriantly here, as elsewhere along I the lower promontory. I The outbreak of civil war in Spain had immediate effect on the life of Gibraltar. The gate opening on Spanish territory became a haven for refugees. Already overcrowded, Gibraltar sheltered about 0000 persons on

the racecourse at the base of the rock until Franco's troops had established themselves in La Linca. Even to-day, however, many whose sympathies were known to be with the Government still live as refugees under England's care.

Town Still Important

Although La Linca lost nearly half of its 80,000 residents, the town is still important. It is the only entrance to Spain by land from the south, and such entrance can be made only through the gate of Gibraltar. Between the gate and the town is a strip of neutral ground about a quarter of a mile across.. Visitors are allowed to walk or drive across this and so can, without permit, approach Franco's Customs station, with members of the carabinero and civil guards in their quaint Napoleonic headgear on duty. It is dangerous, however, to attempt to take photographs. And one cannot enter the town without permits.

Although Gibraltar is a British possession, the Church of England or Anglican Church has, outside the Army and Navy, a very small following. Of the 20.000 inhabitants it is estimated that 16,000 are Catholics. Religion and education are largely in the hands of Irish clergy and teachers.

The Church of England's Bishop of Gibraltar, who has his permanent residence in London, occupies a unique position. In addition to his charge in Gibraltar he exercises a certain jurisdiction over all the Anglican clergy ministering on the Continent ol' Europe. He has his titular headquarters in Gibraltar presumably because it is the only spot on the entire Continent over which flies the British flag.

Ireland has another hold on Gibraltar. A considerable portion of the city is known by the name of Irishtown—due no doubt to the concentration at some period of Irish troops in this particular area.