WOMEN’S WINDOW

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LII, Issue 16208, 4 December 1926, Page 12

WOMEN’S WINDOW

NEW FASHIONS IN PARIS, THE CHARM OF WHITE. Even in this disappointing summer (writes a London correspondent), there have been days of brilliant .sunshine, when much "white has been worn. Many Parisians prefer it to any color, no matter how beautiful. And, given blue weather and the suitable occasion, it certainly exerts unrivalled charm. At the same time it is not becoming to everyone, though much may be done by studied “make up” to produce an artistic appearance. A colored hat, too, may work wonders in providing satisfactory relief. Many white ensembles are carried out in two materials, thus observing the prevailing mode for contrast —if not in color, then in texture and surface.'* A long straight coat in Knshatoil accompanies a crcpella dress, and a lino sorgo is worn with another in erepe-dc-ehinc; a white annel, decorated at the sides with mother-of-pearl buttons, opens over a georgette tunic; and, again, a georgette coat enriched with a deep horn embroidered a jour, goes with a taffeta frock. Generally speaking, the drosses are made with long sleeves and with the neck so cut that it may be open in a shallow V, or closed with a neat turned-down collar of the Eton type. But there arc exceptions, And these are sleeveless and have the neck, cut square so that they may be useful as a demi-toilettc dress when the coat is discarded. Thus they may serve for yachting, or for restaurant, dinners at any bright spa. Still more charming is a georgette in dead white, trimmed only with two rows of thick sillc fringe, which appears on the dross and on the cape, worn instead of a coat. The cape, too, is finished with a scarf, with long fringed ends, which are thrown over

the shoulder to the hem. This demands a glorious day and a brilliant occasion, for, with all its simplicity, it is extremely chic. Sleeveless coats accompany many an attractive white dress, particularly when the latter is finished with elaborate sleeves. The result is especially good if the two garments are in distinctive materials which contrast well with one another. And not only is this idea carried out in the smarter dresses, but if is continually expressed in those intended for tennis and golf. Then the sleeveless coat is usually short, and often in some bright color which contributes to the gaiety of the scene. The Parisians call those gilots, but they are far more like smart little coats than waistcoats, except for the lack of sleeves.

Variety is often gained, too, by touches of color being introduced on the white. White foulard spotted with blue is, for example, worn, beneath a coat of pure white Kashatoil, and very well it looks. Again, a white silk muslin was trimmed on the skirt with row upon row of fine. Valenciennes set upon a foundation of palest blue net; and the same decorations were introduced on the cuffs of the sleeves. Nothing could be simpler. Yet the effect was extremely chic. It had a rival,, however, in a white muslin, faintly but broadly checked with blaclf and tied rUth a sash in apple greed. Both these frocks breathed an early Victorian atmosphere, which made them piquant for a modern young girl with her independent air and swinging gait.

Such muslins, too, as well as georgettes, whether they be in unrelieved white or hot, may be as rich in appearance as anyone can desire. For there is no limit to the handwork which is put into many of them. Even the less expensive dressmakers are not content unless they can point to this form of decoration as a feature of their dresses. And it is by no means rare to find the full skirt almost entirely in open-work. embroidery, through which may be seen the occasional gleam of the crepo-do-chino slip. Others are tucked and incrustcd and inserted with the finest raised embroidery, which is sometimes set off by the contrast of a hem in black velvet.

Though many prefer to keep the whole toilette a spotless white, others appreciate a note of brightness to he provided by the hat. Jtcd is a favorite color for this; preference being divided between the rich shade of Burgundy and the more brilliant tono of sealing wax. Young girls choose the cooler shades of blue and .jade green; but it was an older woman who looked particularly attractive in a white crin hat, upon which blazed a single scarlet flower to give the note for the narrow rod leather belt and the neat hid shoes. The dress was in no way striking or original—.just a crepc-de-chine finely tucked —but the whole toilette was well considered and proved completely successful.

Most people, indeed, admired it more than another, which was perhaps too elaborately decorated with flaming red. The apron tunic was almost covered with cubistic devices in this color, in crepc-de-chine laid on white georgette. Tho narrow red collar was pretty, however, and the quaint white hat—rather like a jockey’s cap—was amusing with its unexpected . decorations in the same brilliant colbr, tpgctlior with touches of black. A long cape, fitting the shoulders as securely as a coat, was without color, and was finished with a collar of summer fur.

Some women appreciate the combination of navy blue and white —an idea which has so much in its favor that it is constantly revived. A blue coat with a white dress is not only practical, but it; can be exceedingly smart. A white crepe-de-chine tunic, finely tucked from throat to hem, is worn with a wrap in navy blue satin, or with a fine rep—nlso in navy blue—relieved with pipings in white. The latter would be a very useful coat for yachting, ns it would be as suitable\to throw over a sorgo dress on a cool day, as over a foulard, a georgette, or a crepe-do-chinn when the weather is warm. Short blue serge coats are also worn with one-piece dresses which mav he in fine white serge or in crepe-de-'chine or crcpclla; though serge often gives way to flannel, and an “ensemble” entirely in flannel always looks neat and workmanlike for yachting in summer seas.

GERMAINE’S FROCK GARDEN. FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN THE SPRING. , PARIS, October 4. This summer hats are more than usually gay. Flowers and fruit of every sort are summoned to encircle crowns, or hang gracefully over a brim, or even swing from the under side.' Often the flowers arc white, and these arc most effective when used on large drooping hats of black or red or light green, for all-white hats, though very smart, are a little difficult to wear. Most of the large hats roll up softly at the back, and there is naturally a corresponding tendency to droop slightlv at the sides, possibly a hint of the dirortoive “poke-bonnet. ” With these hats the trimming is usually placed directly at the front and droops from the brim at one or both sides, rising to a point near the top of the crown. Bright strips of green straw resembling grass are the summer equivalent, of giyceriniscd ostrich, and are often used in connection with such flowers as buttercups, daisies and poppies. In contrast to the loaves and garlands, single flowers are often used at one side, or under the brim of hats, largo or small. Those single flowers arc often, waxed, and this gives to their color an interesting, mellow glow. Plaques of small buds, such as roses, violets, or buttercups, may fold over the edge ol the brim on a graceful Leghorn, or a wide picturesque erepe-de-eliine hat. Loops of ribbon and feathers, usually long, also do their share to make charming head coverings, especially on hats of felt, though they have by no means forsaken straw. With such a delightful variety to choose from, surely there is not excuse for a dull or stupid hat this season!

Several new styles in collars are being shown. The bateau, which suffered a temporary eclipse lash season, is once more in stylo, and in some evening and afternoon gowns is cut wider, in order to tonqh the tip of each shoulder. The dropped neckline is also fashionable, and is seen much in the evening gown cut after the idea of the robe do style. There is n new graceful rounding neck trimmed — a handkerchief collar, and another fetching collar of white organdy cut like a yoke.

THE CARE OF FURS. A really valuable fur coat for which one has "no use in summer should always be sent to a furrier to be cleaned anil stored. Only in this way can its owner feel perfectly suro it will be kept free of the depredations of the moths, says a writer in a London paper. If you arc putting" your other furs away, be careful not to put them away damp, and give them a beating yourself to get rid of any dust. On the whole, it: is better not, to pack, furs away, as people used to do in the old days. ’ One often finds uses for fur stoles, and even wraps, on chilly summer days. If you have plenty of wardrobe accommodation keep them in your wardrobe, and take them out every now and then and shake them. Keep some napthaline and camphor balls in your wardrobe ns a precaution against the moth. By the way, did you know that moiiis never go to dyed furs? A wellknown furrier told the writer this fact recently, and as some of our smartest furs are dyed ones these days our worries about moths should be considerably minimised. .

SUITABLE COLORS. The following is the’ advice given by an overseas writes:— 1, Persons with, black or dark brown hair; brown, grey, or blue eves, enn usually wear blue of all shades; cream, ivory, golden or tan browns; dark red, blue-grey, and all other shades of grey, and mustard and amber yellow. . , . 2„ Olive skins, brown or black hair, blue or grey eyes: Black only when worn with cream collar or touch of color; chestnut or golden brown, navy blue, warm shades of grey, crimson, and,old rose. T>. Dark, sallow .type: She must wear the dark and dull shades, with touches of trimming in bright colors, such as'rose, flame, and orange. 4. Auburn hair with blue or brown eyes takes black especially in thin materials', rich shades of brown, dull and dark green's, violet, dove and pearl grey, navy, peacoelc, or grey-blue. 5. Sallow blondes must be careful in choosing their colors, but they can wear soft grey combined with rich tones, ns rose dr burnt orange, dark red, navy blue, creamy white, or rose. p. Black hair, brown eves, and dark skin takes golden brown, black with touches of color, dark green, pale or dark blue, clear red or crimson, coral, pnle or old rose, any yellow.

7. The gohlcn-haired girl with fair skin and blue eyes wears black, white, very dark brown, all shades of blue, delicate yellow, pale pink or old rose, warm shades of grey or green.

' 8. The elderly woman with grey hair should choose for her colors black, if trimmed in colors, creamy white, dark blue, and violet. p. The fleshy Jlgnro ought to wear retiring colors,' as blue-greens, bluj, brown, grey and black; while thin figures need the advancing colors such as red, yellow, orange, rose, and bright hues, to increase the apparent size.

neck garter vogue. With shrinkage of women's skirts, due to the prevailing fashion, it is not surprising to learn that the newest craze in London is the garter for the nock. At a dance club last month (says the Daily Chronicle), a debutante of last spring, who lias just returned from Paris, was wearing a neck garter of pale blue gathered chiffon, finished with a pink rose with silver leaves at the right side. The effect was charming and original, and the girl with the garter was a person of outstanding interest among the girls with pearls and the girls with stiff, gold eirclos round their necks. It is not only a dance fashion. At an afternoon reception at the Savoy the other day one of the most attractively-dres-sed women was wearing a ruchcd blue satin neck garter with her soft, hanging, beige frock. Anyhow, the garter on the neck is less conspicuous -that much can be said tor it; and it is kinder to the poor neck than it is to the poor leg. bankrupt. In a recent list of bankruptcies in France there were seven manufacturers of women’s hair combs and two manufacturers of hairpins. That is one of the'results of hair shingling. On the other hand, since 1024 the number of hairdressers devoting their attention to women especially has increased by 420.

‘‘MIKADO” IN NEW DRESS. Mr. Charles Ricketts, A.R.A., writes in the London Daily Mail:— I have been severely criticised for redressing “The Mikado.” But the original setting of “The Mikado” contains nothing which it is essential to preserve. The piece was staged in a groat burry at its first appearance, and the dressing of it was given into the hands of a costumier who was told to do the best he could. Little was known at the time about Japanese dress, and the result was a production in which the costumes looked like kimonos. “The Mikado,” of course, is not meant to be a true picture of Japanese life. It is a fairy-tale, in which, half the time, Gilbert is laughing at his own country. The new drosses I have chosen belong to a period—about 1720 —when the national costume was especially beautiful. The girls’ dresses, in particular, were very bright and gay. Therefore there is nothing to lose by making the costumes conform to that period. ‘ Indeed, the increased artistic effect alone justifies the heavy expense. Many Japanese resent a parody in which their national dress is made to look like a collection of dressinggowns. Their Mikado, too, is semisaered to them. In the new version the- actor playing that part will ap-pear-in the costume of a prince of high rank, but without Imperial heraldry. During a visit of the Japanese Heir-Apparent the Horae Secretary objected to the opera because he considered it might give offence. By correcting the costumes rve are making a long overdue gesture of courtesy to a friendly nation. * The gentlemen of Japan appear now in Court costume, but with fictitious banners and heraldry. Katisha’s dress, conforming to the historic mode,' is elaborate in tho extreme,

with sleeves wider than present-day dresses. In my opinion this type of Court dress is one of the most beautiful ever invented. Current reports about “Oxford Bags” and “Plus Fours” are entirely erroneous. No European element is being introduced. The breeches referred to are more like dh’ided skirts than trousers, and Avere in common use thirty years ago. Many of the dresses copied have remained in fashion for centuries —some Avere used before the Norman Conquest. Japanese , eom-entions have also been followed in the scenery, and altogether the general effect will be far more “Japanese” in character than anything yet seep on the English stage. A Japanese might add: “And quite different from anything ever seen in Japan! ’ ’