WOMEN’S WINDOW

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LII, Issue 16202, 27 November 1926, Page 12

WOMEN’S WINDOW

GORGEOUS MODES 01-’ FASHION

EVENING FROCKS THAT SCINTILLATE.

COLOR FEASTS

LONDON, October 6,

Lighting-up time has brought a new note of sumptuousness into the fashions of the night. Imperial Rome or medieval Florence or Venice could not have outdone in sheer magnificence the smart, woman of the winter season, when, < lad in her evening wraps, .she steps into restaurant, theatre, or dance club. Day-time dress may bo ostentatiously simple, the little jumper suit of kasha, cloth or tweed whose costiless lies all in cut and line, but evening frocks may scintillate with ten thousand sequin power, and evening wraps accord in gorgeousness with luminous frocks.

The richest fabrics that modern textile art, inspired by the beautiful designs of the past, can produce—brocades that are feasts of color, rich velvets, gleaming metallic lames, crystal, gold, silver and copper laces, lavishly embroidered with multi-color-ed spangles, and quantities of fur — go to the making of the new wraps;

MEDIEVAL LINES,

The note of magnificence now asserting itself is not, however, wholly due to fabrics, rich though they may be. Many of the ultra-fashionable wraps are cut on characteristic medieval lines of sweeping grandeur. A cloak of richest brocaded velvet, heavily trimmed with golden seal aud lined with iridescent lame, has the ample folds of more spacious days than these, and fifteenth century sleeves that almost touch, the ground. Enormous quantities ol' silver braid lighten up a black chiffon velvet cloak trimmed with dyed fox, touched with silver. Another distinctive model in shining lame has a large collar of fox and bands of the same fur at the liem, where the lame is closely rucked to give the new “blousing” line that has captivated all the dressmakers.

There is only one drawback to these magnificent evening wraps. Women hate to hide their splendours in the cloakroom!

“ENGINEEHESS” OF A LINER

SHIP'S WORK THAT YOUTHS SHIRK.

“EQUAL TO ANY MAN.’

LIVERPOOL, October 6

“She has been a wonder. She has done everything that could be'expected of a man.” An engineer of the liner Andrises made this statement to-day regarding Miss Victoria Drummond, the twentv-eight-ycar-old woman who has just received a second engineer's certificate. She is the first woman to take a marine engineer’s “ticket.” Miss Drummond made six journeys to Australia and the East in the engine rooms of the Anehises.

“She has never had a wrong word with the other officers,” added the engineer, “and litis won the respect of us all.”

WHAT THEY THOUGHT.

“When she joined the ship we did not think that she would matte a second voyage. Young men, after being shut tip in the engine room for four months, frequently seek a more congenial job ashore. “She has taken the usual day and night watches, and has never been known to miss a watch, no matter howhigh the sea has been running or how hard the work. She hears and sees nothing that she should not, and she does not shirk any work that is expected of a man." Miss Drummond will sit for her first engineer’s certificate, and will join the Anchises on her next voyage to continue the experience needed for her final examination. She will then remain ashore ns a consultant marine engineer.

VANITY LEADS TO LONG LIFE.

HEALTH-GIVING EFFECT OF A SMART FROCK.

Vanity in women has probably been hold to bo a fault all through the history of humanity, but now doctors are not too sure about the matter.

Women, in England, in Australia, and in many other countries, it is declared, now enjoy longer lives than men; while in America, according to the insurance authorities, they are increasing their record. A surgeon-dentist, who has boon studying the figures, asserts that the vanity of women plays an important part in producing this result.

Sir William Arhuthnot Lane, when questioned by a Daily Express representative. did not deride the idea.

“I should prefer, however," ho said, “to give the quality which induces women to make the best of their appearance another name. I should call it self-respect. '

“Increased attention to the teeth, more baths, exercise, diet —all these things," he added, “have n beneficial and direct effect on health; but I think there is also an important psychological effect.

“A woman in a. shabby dress looks a different woman when she is well dressed. The outlook on life of many women depends on their clothes and their appearance generally.

“We also owe it as a duty to our neighbors to look our best."

MY LADY’S DRESS

A passage from “The Silver Spoon." by John Galsworthy:— “ Your grandmother spent about a fifth of what you seem to on about five times the acreage of clothes. You wear nothing nowadays, and yet it costs all this."

“The less there is, grandfather, the better it has to be cut, you know!"

ANKLES COME BEFORE FACES

DRESSING DOWN TO THE FEET

“RAINBOW” MODES.

Dressing down is the new art of fashion ns revealed at flic dress parade of a leading Dover street firm.

The new process is best defined as a violent reaction to Ihe felish of the “ensemble,” in which Ihe same color scheme was repeated ill every accessory. In the “rainbow” tailor-made, which is the most emphatic expression of the change in policy, nothing mat dies, The smart woman literally dresses down, beginning with a light toned hat. Neck fur, coat, and then skirt are in a. succession of darker shades, until a halt is called by shoes of shining black patent leather. 'flic novelty of the “rainbow” method made an immediate appeal to women when demonstrated in the original “rainbow” tailor-made sketched by a Daily Express fashion artist. Eyes travelled from the sheen of the smart black patent leather footwear — it is significant of the present trend in modes that interest centres in the ankles rather than the face of the mannequin—up to the rich but duller black of the velveteen skirt. 'The short coat above, perfect fitting > and almost moulded to ihe figure, was also of velveteen, but in a soft shade of dark purple., The fur necklet of silver fox, which is of a peculiarly soft brownish black, leads to a high-crowned hat of light mulberry color felt, inlaid with a baud and triangular motive of felt.

ROOM AT THE TOP.

WOMEN REFUSE £SOO A YEAR

AN UNSUCCESSFUL MISSION.

Attention was directed to the statement by the director of a leading Canterbury firm that the hoard had sought throughout; New Zealand and also in Australia for a suitable, manager, and that, of 30 to 80 applicants, none had seemed suitable. The position was worth anywhere from £IOOO to £ISOO a year.

Apparently women who are really competent in their respective spheres are likewise in keen demand, and are able to command salaries that to tho rank and file would appear to be unbelievable. The last issue of the New Zealand Draper reports upon the result of a mission which Mr. J. S. Milne, of Milne find Choyco, Auckland, was entrusted during his recent visit to Great Britain and America. Mr. Milne was asked by the New Zealand Drapers’ Federation to obtain the services of a suitable staff instructor. aud was authorised to offer up to £SOO per ruiuum, plus travelling expenses. Mr. Milne made exhaustive inquiries. A 'Miss Gladys Burton, principal of a London school of staff instruction, whom he saw, recommended sending a New Zealand girl to her school for instruction. She herself would not come to New Zealand for less than £ISOO per annum, plus expenses.

In Boston Mr. Milne discovered a lady who seemed capable of properly performing the duties, but when she mentioned £IOOO a year, plus expenses, the New Zealander had to consider the discussion closed.

As tho position now stands, the matter will again pome forward at next annual conference of tli*o New Zealand Drapers’ Federation, when the question: of sending a New Zealand woman to 'England or America to be trained can be considered.

FROM THE ASIIES

NEW BEOUSE ARISES,

Blouses of the standard variety, so indispensable to a woman’s wardrobe a few years ago, are now practically extinct. But from the ashes of the dead garment lias arisen a new and glorified blouse, which uses the name ns a courtesy title, and may be fashioned in many wonderful ways.

The fundamental difference lies in the way of wearing. Where, before the blouse was tucked in the skirt, it is now worn outside. The blouse and skirt, as it was known, a utilitarian ensemble, which it seems would endure for ever, is now never seen. Occasionally the old blouse is worn with a tailored tweed or cloth coat and skirt, but even here the jumper or front is the rule.

The jumper blouse worn with costumes imnv be of white silk of sporting cut, like a man ’s shirt, and must be of the correct length. An inch more or less over the hips may spoil the whole effect. Smart, too, are crepe do chine blouses of (lie same or lighter shade than the costume.

Belts are often worn on the jumper blouse. Narrow or wido strips of bright suede are effective, and bolts of gold, silver or steel are often chosen for colored crepe do chines. Tho pocket is an important touch. It may carry an embroidered monogram or other adornments. A landscape in colored silks in unusual. Collars and cuffs arc also embroidered, but only when there is no other trimming.

GIRLS WHO HAVE ALWAYS BEEN

“FAST.”

Mrs C. S. Peel, who had the Order of the British Empire conferred upon her for her war work in England, lias just written a book dealing with the social and domestic changes of the last century. The modern girl has a real champion in her. Read: —“Waltzes and quadrilles at first were considered very shocking, for then, as now, what was new was improper. Later, in 1942, the polka was introduced, and was for the'first time danced in public at Lady Elizabeth Spencer-Stanhope’s, where people stood on chairs and rout seats to watch it. Tho waltz, Ihc tango, the fox-trot —all in turn have been accused of undermining the morals of society. No one has very much faith in society’s morals, it would seem, for in the sixties, when coffee was first served after luncheon, there was a great to-do. It was feared that young men would stay on after luncheon drinking coffee with their fascinating hostesses, and then ! To-day a curate might drink coffee with a chorus girl and no one would concern himself about it, while well-brought-up young women go lo the theatre with young men, and sup and dance at the fashionable 'hotels with, little or no ehaperonage. . , . The young girl of the day has always boon 'faster’ than the young girl of her mother’s day, and has been assisted in her fastness by the ‘Blood,’ the ‘Swell,’ the ‘.Tolitmio,’ the ‘Masher,’ and tho ‘Emit’—slang terms for the young men of the moment.”

CROOKED WAYS OF FASHION.

VOGUE OF UNEVEN ITEM LINES,

WAIST VARIATIONS

Dame Fashion, always inclined to be unstable and a creature of impulse, has taken definitely io crooked wavs this season.

Slit' may be keeping, for the present, to |lie path that is narrow, but she lias forsaken that which is also straight.

There is n strange perversity in the determinarii.n to depart from the lines of rectitude, noticeable in the new models for afternoon and evening wear, chiefly ihe evening frocks that are now being shown at the dress parades by the votaries of crooked fashion.

The now smartness lies in sloping lines and one-sided effects. Fneven hem lines an' not merely tolerated.

tliev are carefully cultivated

During the last few days women studying autumn fashion trends at the dress parades have been bewildered by the complexities of 1 the hem line.

“So skirts are to bo longer at one side than the other” they have remarked to each other when the display opened with a new model demonstrating side draperies at the left. A minute later another mannequin would step into the arena with her otherwise short skirt dropped to ankle length at the right, and to add to the confusion, skirts up or down at the front and hack would make their appearance in swift succession.

The crooked vogue does not end with the skirt. More ofreu than not the waist-line has become infected with the new obsession. There are waists that are as high as a Gibson girl’s at one side, and of the modern hip length depth at the other.

KNEE-CURVE FASHIONS,

“By tlicit knees you shall know thorn” is the newest slogan at the smartest dress parades. Women’s knees are supposed io be all alike, or so enveloped in fabric that knee points do not count. This season women are more likely to be recognised by idiosyncrasies ia knees than by facial distinctions.

Officially, fashion is supposed to have decreed that the skirt shall just cover the knees. Uneven hem lines and the vagary of the dress designer in search of original effects tend to make 1 his fashion rule a fallacy. The curve of the knee is as much studied by the dress designer as that of the arm or throat. In some of the now dance models the skirt is slightly lifted at ono skh' just above the knee curve. Where the skirt is frankly above the knee line a drapery of tulle or lace comes lower at. each side. Occasionally it is the inward curve at the back that is preferred by the dress designer obsessed by the new knee cult. As for the'kneecap, this is revealed so blnntantlv that the dressmaker, almost as a matter of routine, thoughtfully includes matching knickers of the same fabric as the gown as an indispensable item of the latest creations.