THE ROUND TRIP.

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume XXVII, Issue 9037, 4 January 1901, Page 4

THE ROUND TRIP.

GISBORNE TO W.AIKAREMOANA

THE NEED FOR DIRECT ROAD COMMUNICATION. *

Starting from Gisborne at 8 a.m., a pleasant ride over some of our rich flats, which are now looking very fresh and promising splendid crops, brings one through the straggling village of Murewai. Thence over the valuable estate, of the late Mr Woodbine Johnson we leave the metalled road and cross many miles of undulating land, much of which is still m its natural condition, overran with fern and scrub. Beyond Mr Bartlett's we meet the new road, which has just been completed by the Government. Notwithstanding the heavy rain which had been falling for several „ days previous, we found it m _ood condition. The damage on this piece of road is excellent, the grades easy, and the scenery beautiful, passing as it does through bush land, with for some distance a winding creek far below. Much heavy cutting has been needed m its formation, but at the Nuhaka end several finishing touches axe required, as there are a few slips and dead trees to be cleared otf. This, however, will soon be attended to, as we met a party of six men just beyond who were busily - engaged clearing the road of all such obstructions. The pleasure of. the ride onward to Nuhaka was somewhat damped by a drizzling rain, accompanied by a thick mist; but nine miles from that place we came upon another roadmen's • camp, and were made heartily welcome to a good cup of hot^tea, which was highly appreciated. From a bend m the road we catch for a few minutes' a pretty picture of the Nuhaka Valley/Thesnn, bow not far from setting, burst out with all its warmth, brightening up the several houses of which the vflla_e of Nuhaka consists. A good < five minutes.' walk from the Springs Hotel up a very pretty-bush track brings one to the springs, and a soak m these is delightful, removing all effects of the day's ride. The accommodation at the hotei, which has just come under Mr J. S. Cooper's able management, is very good, . the house having been thoroughly renovated. The rain continued again during the night, and promised much the same next day; so we saddled up and started for Wairoa. At the Nuhaka River we were pointed out where the unfortunate mailman was washed away. A post showing the amount of water has since then been erected, which travellers will find a great benefit. It was a rather long and dreary ride, over the flats and sandhills that brought us to Wairoa. The scene irom the top of a hill overlooking the to*vu and the surrounding country is a very pretty one; the Wairoa River itself is a picture. The Wairoa Bridge is a splendid structure, and puts all bridges m this district m the shade. We were informed . that m the channel under the bridge there is a depth of 40ft of water. The bar, however, is Wairoa's drawback, but a good de_ of breastwork is now being made, which it is hoped will keep the mouth free for' navigation. After an enjoyable stay m Wairoa, making an early start, we rode out to Frasertown, and there had breakfast. r- Prosperity is evidently shining on this little town, as we noticed several buildings going up, notably a fine large hotel, which wul well replace the old building. A day's ride of 26 miles over a good coach road, following closely the beautiful Waikare-Tahetu stream, and passing through a large amount of hilly and rather poor country, but interspreaa are a few patches of flat, some bearing good crops, brought us to Waikai^mdana. The road makes one final sweep, skirting round a .little lake, and mounting up the hill for some distance. Rising gradually over a ridge, we came all at once on to the shore of the great lake, Waikaremoana, the Sea of the Rippling Waters. A fresh westerly wind was blowing over the deep water, which is surrounded by a thick bush. Onepoto, near the outlet, was our camping-place for the night, and we were comfortably put up by Mr J. R. Phillips, who has a small store, and has also the post ofSee for the Lake settlers. Near by are the ruins of an old redoubt, where a detachment of the armed constabulary were stationed for a few years. This is an interesting relic of the "good old days," for the Natives iii this Urewera country were the last to make friends with the pakeha. These were the Natives that bore the brunt of the war m the Waikato and elsewhere, and naturally there were a large number of casualties m their ranks. They sullenly returned to their wild retreats, and we irere told that it is only owing to the old warriors dying off and the present generation coming into touch with Europeans, that civilisation has made a start at last. The fact of the trouble the Government had to obtain permission to form the road round the lake is sufficient proof of this. The road is only six feet wide, and it is impossible to get a vehinle any distance along, owing to its narrowness. It winds for fifteen miles round the rocky, bush-clad shore. In places heavy blasting and rock-cutting nas' been necessitated ; but while they were about it they should certainly have made the track passable for drays. Seven miles from Onepoto a space of about two acres has been cut from the hills and levelled out. This is to be the site of the Government sanatorium, the timber for which is also being cut. And a grand site it is, too, standing as it does some 200 feet above the lake, of which there is a splendid visw. A boatshed is being built just below, and m this are kept several substantial boats for the use of visitors. -But surely they do not think they can open a good tourist traffic when visitors find they have a seven-mile ride after a trying day's coach journey. Here, as above stated, I must re-affim the opinion that the Government should have made a coach road while they were atout it. It would surely have been cheaper to have made it at first than to have to widen it later on. Their excuse, we were informed, is that they want to open the country as rapidly as possible while they have the favorable permission of the Natives. Eight miles furuier round, the present limit of the road, are to be seen the Mokau Falls. These are a splendid scene, and well worthy of their fame. The scenery on this road grandly justifies the name it has received. Here and there, as the road winds round some little inlet, magnificent pictures are brought to view. Waikaremoana must soon be the. resort of many an artist. Pane-Kiri Bluff, rising up 1000 ft, is the most prominent landmark on the surroundings of the lake. The encroaching bush, which festoons the lake, has overgrown this great chff, and it makes a striking background to many a pretty scene. It is impossible to see the whole lake from any one point, as its margin is so broken and irregular, and this is what adds an additional charm to its great beauty. On rounding a bend m the road one comes upon some pretty bays, connected by a small mouth with the great lake. The bush near the edgei of the lake is of a varied nature, though the everlasting red birch is most prominent, and contains some fine timber/ Doubling back again to the Aniwaniwa Creek, we took the rood to Mr A. J. James's, another storekeeper and pioneer settler, providing for the wants of the roadmen, who number now only about fifty, there being at> one time fully ' two hundred engage-' on the Lake road. ' Two fatal besides a number of minor accidents occurred on this work, and it was impressed upon us the great necessity of telephonic communication, as valuable time was lost before medical aid was procured. There are two falls on the Aniwaniwa Creek, both of which are very pretty, being thickly surrounded by bush. Riding up lull after hill from Frasertown, one wonders how ever a lake can be found at such a height, 2015 ft above sealevel. Yet, after a walk of three miles from Mr James's up a bush track, one finds perched up another 500 ft higher still the Jake Waikare-iti. This is an extremely pretty little lake. Deep silence reigns. " The surrounding bills are covered with dense scrub. There are no high cliffs as at Waikaremoana, but rising away across the lake is ridge after ridge, clad with evergreen bush. The lake is about a mile and a half m extent, and is dotted by half-a-dozen little islets, bush-clad, rising out of the deep, still waters. We retraced our steps down the track, which is passable for horsemen, with our minds full of admiration of this lake, which as yet has been very sparsely visited, even by Natives. About halfway up, the visitor will meet another track branching off. The track to the lake is the upper one of the two, and comes out just at the boatshed. - The other track is incomplete, and winds round m the direction of the outlet. Permission and keys may be obtained from Mr Strachan, Government Overseer, for use of these lake boats, each of which is locked to its shed. A good strong party and a little precaution of the weather is heeded before venturing on the lakeß, as the storms are very numerous and severe. We were very fortunate m securing fine weather during our staf at Waikaremoana, as we were

told the weather had been very unseasonable, the thick mists and stormy seas having often disappointed visitors who have travelled . so far to see the sights. The water of the lake is very cold, and bathers have to be careful, as one's limbs are soon numbed. Trout are very plentiful m the lakes, and creeks, but a license has to be taken out before fishing is allowed. The accommodation provided by Mr James is still of the "backblocks" order, but his genial spirit and obliging manners make up for deficiencies m the way of c<_nforts. He explained that it was very seldom anyone ever passed through. Our host pointed out to us the advantage that would result to the tradespeople iv Gisborne if the Hangaroa road was opened to traffic, with a line. of coaches regularly running. Most goods for Waikaremoana and its surroundings come originally from Napier. He could buy things m Gisborne cheaper if he could only get them through. In addition to Napier charges, the freight and other fees at Wairoa are heavy, and by the time they got them the price had risen considerably. "What we want," he repeated, "is communication with Gisborne." This is the road, I find, which Government granted a. sum of £500 for, promising to complete the road themEelvesi* which they did not. The local Council, however, took the matter m hand, and spent part of the sum on the road and the rest on other works, so it remains unfinished and unopened. The soil around the lake is a thick layer of pumice, and questioned as to its value, Mr James informed Us that potatoes, carrots, and other vegetables do extremely well m it. Round his homestead a clearing is being made, and dead logs thickly abound m. aS directions. The road to Rotorua via Galatea branches off just here. Saying good-bye to the charms 'of Waikaremoana, we followed the Hangaroa road some thirty miles, and all that distance we found the road well formed, but incomplete. When a creek was met, and a bridge required for vehicular traffic, the road would end abruptly, narrowing down to a two-foot track round such obstacles ; so the road is "" practically made, but needs some small bridges and culverts. The bush until within > few miles of the river is nothing but red birch, varying m thickness, and containing some very large trees. This is a timber source of no mean value, and the question that is uppermost m the mind of the traveller is is all this to be consumed by fire, or will thos elight railways ever reach this locality? The kaikatea is the first tree we noticed, intermingled with the birch, which latter was m full bloom. Here and there some masses of red blossom of the Tata brighten the monotony of the bush. Before reaching the RuaMturi River we rode for fully three: miles, with rich cocksfoot grass growing luxuriantly on either side of the clearing. On the Gis- V borne side of this crossing we followed the road for ten miles, and a tall prairie grass, growing as, high as the horses' backs, was passed through for nearly the whole distance. Our horses well appreciated this portion of their journey. Having received instructions from the roadmen at Waikaremoana and at the Ruakituri crossing, we left the road at a larg ©spur running away towards the southward, through a dense bush. This track, which is by no means a comfortable one, follows ridges and crosses valleys, over the roots of trees at every step, hardly a few hundred yards of clear track being met the whole way. It is like being led m the darkness, as one cannot see half-a-dozen yards ahead m which direction he is to go. •" For two and a half hours we picked our way over this, and emerged out into the open on a fern ridge. The surrounding ridges are covered jvith bush, and not a sign of human life is visible m any direction. Half an (hour's ride oyer this country, following a small track, brings us suddenly within sight of the Maori village of Tuahu, situated on a small rise m the Ruakituri Valley. The shades of evening were drawing m, and we gladly accepted the invitation of the Natives to spend the night m their village. We were treated m good style by our Maori hosts, and after a good breakfast rode on to Te Reinga, winch we reached after three hours' easy riding. Both Te Reinga and Marumaru caves have been descriptively described before, so little mention is needed. Sufficient is it to.say that Te Reinga's second attraction, the cherries, were m great abundance, , and of an excellentquality. It was here I met Mr David Whyte, the earnest light-rail-way advocate, and was given much information on his .scheme. There is no doubt a light railway, is sorely needed to open and develop the wealth of our back country. Just think of the tons of cherries that fall and rot under the trees at Te Reinga; what of their value iiV they were only able to be brought to town? This is only one small item of the proof of its need. If, as Mr Whyte contends, this railway construction is cheap, serviceable, and successful, then it needs prompt attention. This gentleman has spent many years agitating light railways, and we wish him success, and shall always be glad to give him assistance m a work so beneficial to our. district. The fame of the old limestone caves at Marumaru seems to be on the wane, as it was plainly visible by the track that they are now seldojn used. Notwithstanding this, they are well worth the ride to-any-one passing m the vicinity. New caves have been found m the hills at the back of the hotel, but so far these have not (been thoroughly explored. The roads j under the control of the Wairoa Council ; have the reputation of being far ahead jof those m this district. I cannot but j cometo the conclusion that this is so. j The Tiniroto road is m a sad state at j present. There - are few culverts, and ! fewer side drains ; the water for the [most part simply runs away down the I wheel tracks, forming m winter time large ruts, and thus cutting up the road m a shocking manner. Deposited along the road m places is a quantity of culvert timber, and the sooner these are put m and drains made for the water to Row through them, the better for the roads. Another improvement I might also mention would be the" 1 erection of finger-posts, not only on the Tiniroto but on the Nuhaka road also. A finger-post is also badly needed on the FrasertownWaikaremoana road, at the branching off over the big bridge. Te Reinga could be supplied with a post to great advantage, as more than one person has taken the road over the Falls and landed at the Ruakituri station. The addition of mileage on these posts is also a great boon to wea-ty and inexperienced tourists. -The small expense is not to be compared with the boon it would be to the travelling public. '